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More clutchin stuff

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Eternal, Apr 8, 2003.

  1. Eternal

    Eternal

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    So I have found that the forks are not letting the clutch engage fully. There is lots of movement about 1 inch or so but the clutch will not engage. If I completely remove the push rod of the slave cylinder the clutch totally engages, but while it is in place it doesnt release. I removed the slave and cleaned it out and it looked good no pitting or excessive build up and seemed to move freely. Now wherever I set the push rod adjuster, whether in real far or out real far or in the middle it won't engage at all. I changed all the fluid in the master and blead the lines and still nothing. I have a slave on order and will be pickin it up tomorrow to see if that is the problem.(thought maybe it sticks or jams or something) Any more ideas as to what can be done or I should check? Is there any reason the fluid would not be allowing the slave to release fully? I don't think there is a blockage cause it seems to work to disengage but not engage.


    Eternal-still not movin
     
  2. Eternal

    Eternal

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    Sorry 70 40 3 spd. All hydraulic.

    Eternal
     
  3. 7640can

    7640can

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    hey dude,

    I just went through similiar problems on 76fj40,replaced slave,didn't help much.I then replaced clutch assy,set up pedal height,stop etc.I recommend u make sure that slave return spring is there(THIS IS KEY),it runs parallel with slave.Also clean friction disc with brake clean.this can be done by engaging clutch pedal,(assistant or stick of wood)and crawling underneath and spraying entire clutch assy liberally,Wear safety glasses with this stuff,allow to dry before disengaging.I suspect problem lies in 1slave or 2u have no spring,or 3 your release bearing is hanging up .keep in touch, I'm curious CHEERS
     
  4. IDave

    IDave

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    I agree, it sounds like you have no return spring. I suppose maybe something could be ball-valving at the MC end of the clutch line, too, piece of crud or old rubber, so you may end up looking there also.
     
  5. theo

    theo

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    I have to disagree about the return spring. It is not there to help engage the clutch. It's purpose is to hold the fork end snugly to the end of the push rod. If the clutch is properly adjusted and working with the spring, it will work fine without the spring.

    There is some other reason you don't get full travel. It's possible you have a ton of sludge in your lines or cylinders. I did and it was a joy to remove. :)
     
  6. rgentry

    rgentry

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    My cruiser was clutching fine without the return
    spring. The only problem with running without
    the spring was a squeaky throwout bearing.

    There is very little "extra" travel in the LC
    clutch. Perhaps you need to do the adjustment
    at the master cylinder as well. This adjustment
    is the top of the clutch pedal. There should
    be very little slop between the clutch rod and
    the master.
     
  7. wayne_fj40

    wayne_fj40

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    I had a lot of probs with the clutch I called advance adapters tech line sors tech line and I replaced the master and slave with a newer style that allows more than 15/16 of an inch to about a 1 1/4'' throw so mine worked,or buy centerforce hope this helps that was my bad clutch experiance
     
  8. plan66

    plan66

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    I had a bunch of trouble with mine. I put FJ60 hydraulics in to replace the original stuff ( '66 FJ40 3spd, seized slave). I don't know if this will help but.....the clutch side push rod was too short and the piston came out far enough that the seal caught on the edge of the cylinder and wouldn't return. Even with the force the pressure plate exerts on the lever, the piston jammed. So, got a longer rod figuring problem solved. Wrong. After a week or so I took it on the trail, suddenly the freeplay on the pedal dissapeared, and the release bearing was making noise. Wierd I thought, readjusted the freeplay, drove a few days, same problem. Anyhow, to cut to the chase, my pedal/m.cylinder side push rod didn't have any slack. Shortened that push rod and it works beauty.

    Have you tried to use a pry bar to see if you can push the slave cylinder piston in? If the piston isn't bottomed crack the bleeder valve and it should. If it does, problems likely higher up the system. If it is bottomed already, look through the inspection plate to see if the fork, bearing, and pressure plate look healthy. Something in there may be fawked.

    HTH
    Martin
     
  9. Eternal

    Eternal

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    OK so my mechanic is now offically fired and this site is takin his place.(He put in the clutch replacement)It has been running with the throw out bearing slightly engaged for about 6 years now. Checked the lines and they were clean but something in the slave was just not letting it return all the way in and therefore keeping it from completely disengaging. The slave seemed to just stick a little bit and there you go. I replaced the slave at a cost of $48(bit of a rip off if you ask me since the 74 and up was $16 with a fine instead of a course thread but the exact same cylinder)but alas I got it and installed it and whatta you know it returns all the way now. Clutch works alot better. Actually get a bit of room for the clutch to disengage in. Not totally happy but it moves. I am going to look at the pedal setting tomorrow and see if that will make it better. The return spring though is really not very tense at all and wondering should it be replaced or does it have to be that tense. I can pull it quite easily with my hands. Throw out bearing rattles now, what are some signs that it needs changing? Should it slide a tiny bit on the fork, like you can twist it a bit? I will also do the brake clean on the clutch to see if that helps as well. Thanks

    Eternal-movin and comin together