- Thread starter
- #101
#1 - will try that. yes, AMP meter looks straight up.
#2 - it is one of these
#2 - it is one of these
melted my jumper cables jumping my FJ.. wont jump.. wtf? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wantatlc
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
#1 - will try that. yes, AMP meter looks straight up.
#2 - it is one of these
You've got one of these in your battery earth cable so that all your starter current passes through it when you crank your engine?
It just doesn't look capable of reliably handling that sort of current flow to me!
My starter draws just over 200 amperes! (But then I've got a diesel so it probably draws more than yours.) And if I were to start cranking while my lights were turned on - that switch would be expected to handle significantly more than that too.
My 2c
PS. What current flow is it rated for?
Edit later...... Googled for a similar item and found it is likely to be rated for a maximum continuous current of either 100A or 140A (thereabouts) with manufacturers typically adding that "it can can handle 500A for 10 seconds".
Having read this - I still wouldn't fit one in my main earthing lead. I believe even minor internal corrosion would likely cause localised heating within that switch during "cranking" and would also likely reduce cranking RPMs. ...... Might be more acceptable (to me) if it was fitted in such a way that the starter current bypasses it! ie. - In a positive lead that goes to everything else EXCEPT the starter! (But then you may not like the lesser degree of "protection"that location would offer.)
In other words I think the manufacturer's rating figures are based on the performance of "a brand new switch under laboratory conditions" and do not have any built-in reliability factor.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #103
just a follow up
so, it seems, best I can tell after all that was done, was that it was the ignition switch.
starter was fine, battery replaced, alternator was fine, ran all wires down and never found a bad wire. The 1 thing that was changed was the ignition switch and I have had no issues since.
So, like I started to speculate towards the end, given some of the symptoms and patterns, that switch was not closing after you started the rig and so it was seemingly left open. anyway, that seems to have been it.
so, it seems, best I can tell after all that was done, was that it was the ignition switch.
starter was fine, battery replaced, alternator was fine, ran all wires down and never found a bad wire. The 1 thing that was changed was the ignition switch and I have had no issues since.
So, like I started to speculate towards the end, given some of the symptoms and patterns, that switch was not closing after you started the rig and so it was seemingly left open. anyway, that seems to have been it.
