m12000 full rebuild (1 Viewer)

[iptman]

Just thought I'd post back to confirm that everything works. I changed out the bearing and put it all back together. She's not quiet but doesn't have that dried rusty screeching that was present when I first got her. All in all I'm very pleased. Total spend was about $950 to get where I am today and hopefully I won't have to do all this again for a very long time. Of course now I need to get a bumper and fairlead but all in due time.

BTW, I used POR15 on the drum, I'd like to know if I should scuff it with 180 grit prior to rolling the cable back on. The POR15 is pretty slick but probably after 4 or 5 wraps the tension around the drum that won't matter, right?

 

[Warn Industries]

Looks great! Nice job; looks new.

- Andy

 

[Betarocker]

It is nice to take something old and make it new again. Good work. I cheated though. I found a brand new in box (still factory wrapping and ties) M12,000 on local Craigslist for $1200CAD. Talked the seller to $1000CAD. I guess he was motivated to sell.

 

[iptman]

I figured I'd wrap up this thread since I finally mounted the winch and spooled the wire back on. One less thing to get done before GSMTR.

 

[iptman]

Switch.

 

[iptman]

Arg...winch stopped working mid pull over the weekend. I pulled it off the truck and tried jumping the terminals and couldn't get the motor to turn. Solenoids all tested ok. I haven't pulled the motor off the winch yet to look at it. Anyone have any ideas of what to look for?

 

[Pin_Head]

Which terminals did you "jump"? To test the motor, put 12V+ to one of the two F terminals that are together on the side of the motor closest to the drum. Connect the other F terminal to the A terminal, which is the single terminal on the free end of the motor. Connect the motor case to ground and the motor should run. Reverse the F terminal connections and the motor should turn the other direction.

 

[iptman]

Which terminals did you "jump"? To test the motor, put 12V+ to one of the two F terminals that are together on the side of the motor closest to the drum. Connect the other F terminal to the A terminal, which is the single terminal on the free end of the motor. Connect the motor case to ground and the motor should run. Reverse the F terminal connections and the motor should turn the other direction.

Yeah this is how I did it. It's almost like there's a short somewhere but I don't know what, where and how to test to narrow down the scope.

 

[Pin_Head]

It it telling you that you need a new motor.

 

[iptman]

The brush plate needed replacing and now I'm back in action. The customer service at Warn has been phenomenal. Thanks again Mike! You got a customer for life here.

 

[iptman]

Does anyone know the bolt size/thread pitch for the single holes on the top of each side of the frame? I snapped a winch line my last trip out and when I went to wind on the replacement synthetic line one of the solenoids blew. Instead of fooling with the solenoids and replacing that 60 year old technology I went with Warn's newer Albright-based contactor control pack. Unfortunately they don't give you the bolt to attach the supplied bracket to the frame. So anyway, I figured I'd ask here to see if anyone knows the bolt spec so I don't have to lug the winch down to Ace and test fit a bunch of bolts in the parking lot.

 

[iptman]

This is the hole I'm looking for the thread pitch on. Even if someone could nature it disc to metric out SAE would be helpful.