The center diff will probably unlock first. I wonder how well the rear will unlock without power going to it. Maybe better.
LOW WITHOUT CENTER DIFF LOCKED (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Beast II
- Start date
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Gumby,
the power to lock and unlock the diffs is not sourced from the center. The center is only the trigger. The diff lock ECU tells the diffs to unlock when it looses the center lock signal. the speed with which the diffs unlock is governed by how "loaded" they are with windup. They will unlock as soon as the load equalizes accross the diff.
In my experience, the average time it takes to unlock a diff that is not wound up is under 2 seconds. In addition, the average lockup time on a diff with the dog clutch lined up is also under 2 seconds.
the power to lock and unlock the diffs is not sourced from the center. The center is only the trigger. The diff lock ECU tells the diffs to unlock when it looses the center lock signal. the speed with which the diffs unlock is governed by how "loaded" they are with windup. They will unlock as soon as the load equalizes accross the diff.
In my experience, the average time it takes to unlock a diff that is not wound up is under 2 seconds. In addition, the average lockup time on a diff with the dog clutch lined up is also under 2 seconds.
- Thread starter
- #43
Cruiserdan:
I installed the diff lock switch on the dash, removed the kick panel and found the cigarette box sized relay behind the ECU. Upon looking at the harness, there were two black wires with a blue stripe - kind of reminded me of The Abyss. There was a fairly thin one (maybe 18 guage) and a thicker one (maybe 12 guage) - both black with blue stripe. I cut what looked like the #7 pin wire (the thin 18 guage wire) and nothing happened. The diff lock light on the dash no longer lights up though when in Low Low or with the switch depressed and I'm wondering if this was the wrong wire and if so, did I screw something up in the electrical system ? Should I have cut the thicker wire ? What does the one I cut do ? I spliced the wires as best as I could, but given the precarious area to work in I fear the splice was not the best. I'm leaving on a two day trip to the mountains, so I'm a bit nervous.
Thank you for your help.
Matt
???
I installed the diff lock switch on the dash, removed the kick panel and found the cigarette box sized relay behind the ECU. Upon looking at the harness, there were two black wires with a blue stripe - kind of reminded me of The Abyss. There was a fairly thin one (maybe 18 guage) and a thicker one (maybe 12 guage) - both black with blue stripe. I cut what looked like the #7 pin wire (the thin 18 guage wire) and nothing happened. The diff lock light on the dash no longer lights up though when in Low Low or with the switch depressed and I'm wondering if this was the wrong wire and if so, did I screw something up in the electrical system ? Should I have cut the thicker wire ? What does the one I cut do ? I spliced the wires as best as I could, but given the precarious area to work in I fear the splice was not the best. I'm leaving on a two day trip to the mountains, so I'm a bit nervous.
Thank you for your help.
Matt
???
That's what I meant. I wonder if unlocking the center first will let the rear unlock easier or not because the load will be different.
Matt,
There is 1 black wire with blue tracer in pin 7.
There is 1 blue wire with black tracer in pin 3.
That one is the power wire, I think maybe you got that one.
Did you leave the low 4 position switch plugged in at the t-case?(it should be).
As you look at the open end of the connector, the cavities are numbered thusly:
(top)
1,2--3,4
5,6,7,X,9,10
X represents an open cavity.
report back...............Dan
There is 1 black wire with blue tracer in pin 7.
There is 1 blue wire with black tracer in pin 3.
That one is the power wire, I think maybe you got that one.
Did you leave the low 4 position switch plugged in at the t-case?(it should be).
As you look at the open end of the connector, the cavities are numbered thusly:
(top)
1,2--3,4
5,6,7,X,9,10
X represents an open cavity.
report back...............Dan
Gumby,
OK, I see what you mean.
In my experience it doesn't seem to make much difference.
I can imagine that in some cases it may make a difference.
OK, I see what you mean.
In my experience it doesn't seem to make much difference.
I can imagine that in some cases it may make a difference.
- Thread starter
- #47
Cruiserdan:
I think I may have gotten the wrong one. All I remeber is that there were two different sizes of wire (with black & blue) and I cut the smaller of the two. Assuming I didn't splice the power wire back together correctly, will anything go wrong ? Transfer case problems etc ? The diff still locks up in low low, just no light on the dash. Perhaps that wire powers the light on the dash ? I haven't touched the plug on the transfer case at all.
Thank you -
Matt,
I don't think so. how do you know the diff is locking? Do you get a bind on a hard surface..ETC? One other thought, is the dash switch plugged in fully?
Lastly, do you have a fax? PM me with the number and I will fax a page of the EWD to you................
Regards..........Dan
I don't think so. how do you know the diff is locking? Do you get a bind on a hard surface..ETC? One other thought, is the dash switch plugged in fully?
Lastly, do you have a fax? PM me with the number and I will fax a page of the EWD to you................
Regards..........Dan
Question about the CDL switch...
Does installing this allow you to lock the center diff in high gear - or is this mod only to allow you to access low range without the locked center?
Does installing this allow you to lock the center diff in high gear - or is this mod only to allow you to access low range without the locked center?
Allows you to engage/disengage in hi or low, at your command.
firetruck41 said:
Actually, the switch alone only gives you 'command' over the CDL in high range. In low range the CDL will be locked regardless of switch position, as was stated earlier in this thread. you lazy bastards.
The 7-pin mod along with the CDL switch gives you complete control in high and low ranges.
-Spike
So currently, stock, if I want to lock the CDL, I have to switch the lever into LOW range...
If I install this switch and do the described 7 pin mod, I can be in regular high gear, and press the new button, which will lock my center diff in high?
I'm curious because I find some trails where I get much better traction with the center locked, but I can only drive what seems like 3 mph...
If I install this switch and do the described 7 pin mod, I can be in regular high gear, and press the new button, which will lock my center diff in high?
I'm curious because I find some trails where I get much better traction with the center locked, but I can only drive what seems like 3 mph...
I'm losing it! Yes, my comment is with pin 7 mod as well, I guess I just consider it part of the same mod-Spike- said:
This was among the simplest, most gratifying, CHEAPEST mods I have ever done.
I suggest (at least for 94's) if you hate the key in alarm you remove the box while you are doing pin7 as the damn thing is behind the module removed to perform the mod.
I had to take everything apart a second time and I really hated that.
mods I have ever done. I suggest (at least for 94's) if you hate the key in alarm you remove the box while you are doing pin7 as the damn thing is behind the module removed to perform the mod.
I had to take everything apart a second time and I really hated that.
desertdude
SILVER Star
damn this is an old thread
Geez, ya use an old searched thread and its OLD....
But if you start a new thread....you should have searched....
(cries)
But if you start a new thread....you should have searched....
(cries)
CodyRx7 said:
It's always sumptin.
CodyRx7 said:
If you install the CDL switch, which is a simple matter of pulling the dash face off and plugging the switch into the existing plug- the one that's there, ready and waiting for your hot little switch, from the factory- you will be able to lock the CDL in high gear. It will automatically lock in low gear, whether or not you have a switch. If you then do the 7-pin mod, you have the choice of running with the CDL unlocked or locked, high or low range.
You do NOT have to do the 7-pin mod to be able to lock the CDL in high range.
All this information is in the thread, READ IT Cody. Goddammit.
-Spike
Alright, that clears it up for me...
CDL switch gives a stock truck a CDL lock in high gear...
7 pin gives low gear with no locked CDL..
Thanks!
CDL switch gives a stock truck a CDL lock in high gear...
7 pin gives low gear with no locked CDL..
Thanks!
just pull the plug fom the tranfer case. it will become manualy operated from the switch
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/centre_diff.html
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/centre_diff.html
