LONG RANGER AUX TANK (1 Viewer)

[Jim_Phillips]

Oz speck over spare wheel fuel tank as fitted as original equipment if Australia. Gravity feeds into main tank, holds approx 55 lts, Toyota says it holds 65 lts. This allows the spare wheel to stay under the vehicle.

£630 + Tax (17.5%) for multiple order will do discount of £60 on each unit bringing price to c. $1070 + Shipping

Anyone interested email Bob at Four Counties (UK Company)info@fourcounties.fsnet.co.uk

Jim

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

Didn't Christo post at one point that gravity feed fuel systems are not allowed in the US?

Cheers, Hugh

 

[Guest]

for everyone considering adding a factory style subtank,here is george scolaros excellent writeup detailing how/what/why etc and also some recently added info concerning newer subtanks(from 105 series cruisers)being imported and installed:

http://www.geocities.com/george_tlc/auxtank.html


man thats a lotta work for 13 gallons of gas

doug

 

[Jim_Chow]

Don't know if gravity tanks are legal or not (not legal in CA, I hear), but Northwest Metal Products makes a gravity tank for 4runners, so it must be legal somewhere. Couldn't someone just get the Toyota part numbers for the 50 liter tank/dual filler and order it from a source in Japan?

$750 to ship a turbo from Aus is pricey. I was quoted $2500 to ship an entire car from LA to Tokyo! There are some shipping companies that'll ship from the US to Japan any item up to something like 4x3x3' for about $150 (I remember looking into this when considering shipping my audio system overthere, which fills up the entire back of a pickup). I'm sure it costs more the other way, but even if it were twice, it would still be half the Oz shipping. There are a lot more container ships travelling between Tokyo and the West Coast than between Sydney and the West Coast.

--Jim

 

[Photoman]

Jim,
MAF charged me $150.00 to ship their 38 gallon main from CA to Pennsylvania. So, for those on the East coast there would be additional shipping.
Bill

 

[Jim_Phillips]

The parcel division of Royal Mail quotes prices to the US and Canada. 20KG parcel is £85 ($136) Economy service (20 days delivery) Price is the same wherever in the US or Canada you live.

1 KG is 2.2lb Any guesses as to the weight of one of these tanks? Anyway, this gives you an idea of shipping costs.

Cheers, Jim

 

[ParadiseCruiser]

I have a number of comments which, I hope, will clarify some of the questions brought up in this thread (sorry for the long post)...

>> Oz spec over spare wheel fuel tank as fitted as original equipment in Australia. Gravity feeds into main tank...

I am wondering if the chap Jim talked to is just using the term “gravity” different than we do. In any case, in Oz all of the 80 series sub tanks fitted to petrol fueled engines used an external transfer pump to move the fuel from the sub tank to the primary tank, not a gravity feed system at all the way we (U.S.) use the term.

This in contrast to 80 series sub tanks fitted to diesel fueled engines which all used internal fuel pumps (inside the sub tank) that transfered the fuel directly to the engine (such as Bill described). Also FWIW, all 105 series subtanks - petrol and diesel - used the internal pump setup, to the best of my knowledge.

>> ...George Scolaros excellent writeup... man thats a lotta work for 13 gallons of gas.

Actually, it took George much longer to do the writeup than install the sub tank. In fact, he did the installation - for the most part - in one afternoon. What took forever (many months, by his own admission) was gathering all the bits needed to do the job.

Of all the tasks we have have collectively attempted (heater hose, starter, springs, axle work...), installing a sub tank is far less tedious... after all the parts have been collected

>> (Scolaro) ...also some recently added info concerning newer subtanks (from 105 series cruisers) being imported and installed.

Both of the 105 series sub tank installations that George was following have been abandoned. Technically, this was a very “do-able” job, but there were so many niggling little differences between the 105 and 80 setup that it began to be a PITA and not very cost effective. Details for the asking, but I doubt anyone else will go this route now...

>> Any guesses as to the weight of one of these (80 series) tanks?

26-27 lbs (12 KG), including fuel take off, gauge sender, & straps. If you are including the dual filler neck, add another 5+ lbs (2.5 KG). And, add to this the shipping container itself.

>> 50L OEM sub tank (roughly 13.25 gal). “Oz spec over spare wheel fuel tank as fitted as original equipment in Australia holds approx 55 lts, Toyota says it holds 65 lts...”

Yep. No one can seem to come to a common figure on the capacity of this tank. The 80 and 105 tanks, BTW, are identical in almost every respect - such that you cannot tell them apart at first glance - and their capacity is the same... and also debated. It looks as though it is time to “get off the pot,” and actually measure the damn thing...

>> So, you need a tank from Australia, dual filler setup, a pump, plumbing and wiring, for 13 extra gallons. Seems cool but I wonder, is it worth it?

...and an anti-siphon solenoid, the proper gauge sender, fuel filler pipe, ad infinitum... and so, I wonder too. Carrying three jerry cans has got to be simpler, but as noted, would not be “as cool.” On the other hand, a good scavenger can do considerably better than some of the numbers Jim’s contacts have provided here. Perhaps Matt’s contacts can do better.


For one, I am I diehard scavenger. I am compiling the definitive list of bits needed for this project, including as many part numbers as I can identify, what OEM parts need to be used, what substitutions will work, and so on... but it will be at least several weeks before I’ll have all the info together.

Cheers!

R -

 

[Photoman]

Ron,
If it helps you - the stock pump has a built in check valve so no need for an anti-siphon valve and of course using the stock bracket and float takes care of the sender. $$$$$ though. With this setup two aux fuel lines (pressure and return) are run to a selector valve which has six ports - NAPA # 2-2198. Two pickups and two pressure from the two fuel tanks and one pressure and return from the motor. A VERY handy trick I figured out is with the two stock pumps only the return needs to be switched. The pressures since they are the same and have check valves in the pumps can be just tee'd together. The reason this is neat is the valve has pressure ports for 3/8 hose but the valve spool cuts down on the volume that can pass through. I found I did not have as much power running through the valve as not enough volume of gas was getting to the engine. I have a wiring diagram somewhere? of tying in with a relay to switch the gas gauge and as I remember it was one of those tiny 24 gauge wires in a bundle on the floor under the brake petal.
The dual filler is cool as it has the large filler opening - not the necked down one for unleaded.
Going with a transfer pump is so easy there is not much to say. One thing to keep in mind with a transfer pump is if pumping from the aux to the main and the main is full, the gas just goes up the overflow and back down to the aux tank in the dual filler. FWIW the dual filler works by pulling out a rod/knob which moves a flap over to cover the filler tube of the other tank. Doesn't seal real well which is only important if trying to keep accurate track of gas mileage and trying to fill one tank to the brim.
Bill

 

[ParadiseCruiser]

B -

>> the stock pump has a built in check valve so no need for an anti-siphon valve...

Some do, other OEM pumps do not and need the solenoid. Apparently Toyo was not consistant about this.

>> The dual filler is cool as it has the large filler opening - not the necked down one for unleaded.

Both the 80 & 105 series dual fillers I've seen have a permanently welded unleaded reducer in the tube... so apparently, Toyo is inconsistant here too. Perhaps yours is an earlier version...

>> With this setup two aux fuel lines (pressure and return) are run to a selector valve which has six ports...

I suspect this must be similar - at least in principle - to the way the 105s are plumbed. Unfortunately, I haven't got one here to go look at. Pity.

>> One thing to keep in mind with a transfer pump is if pumping from the aux to the main and the main is full, the gas just goes up the overflow and back down to the aux tank in the dual filler.

Yep, and the transfer pump runs forever - or at least until the level in the primary tank is lowered by consumption. In the Oz spec 80, the ECU gets a "full" signal from the primary sender and shuts down the transfer pump.

The all important level switch in the sub tank also sends an "empty" signal to the ECU so it knows when to shut down the transfer pump when there is nothing left to pump.

So, how many jerry cans did you say you can fit on that rack with the rest of your household?

Cheers! R -

 

[landtank]

I thought I'd add my ideas in. Provided both tanks have fuel level sensors I'd automate it.

First build a relay latch circuit for the transfer pump which is triggered from the low fuel light in the dash.

This way as soon as a low fuel condition is sensed in the main tank the transfer pump starts and is held on to transfer the fuel to the main tank.

The shut off of the latch circuit is the low fuel switch on the aux tank sending unit which also turns on an led in the dash to let you know that the aux tank is now empty.

 

[Photoman]

I would like to thank Ron for correcting me. I should have qualified my post by saying that this was a setup I did on my US 97 80 with an early model MAF 45 gallon Long Ranger aux tank.

Rick - your good idea sounds like a water well system we use around here called a "Coyote". I used to dig in large holding tanks that a person that didn't have a good well could pump to. There was a pump in the well and in the tank and a couple of mercury floats that turned things on and off. When the well had water any hour of the day or night and the tank needed water the well pump would turn on and pump to the tank. The people only pumped from the tank.
Bill

 

[Beowulf]

Rick,

>> The shut off of the latch circuit is the <<
>> low fuel switch on the aux tank <<

Would this empty the aux tank or pull it down to 5 gal? The primary tank's low fuel light comes on with about 5 gallons left in the tank.

How would this work if you shut off the vehicle while the aux tank was filling the primary, then you fill the primary, then turn the vehicle back on? I guess the aux latch circuit would reset with power off...
-B-

 

[Guest]

dont get me wrong,i would love to have the xtra capacity as well,but scavenging or not, i dont think i can really come up with all the bits and pieces back here in WV(or locate and get them all shipped to me)(and keep my sanity and wallet intact,hehe)
Now if the whole thing were available as a retrofit kit, i would surely jump on the bandwagon and get one cause i already notice when i am towing the boat to some destinations, i gotta stop to fill up when my buddies dont(but then they dont have an 80 series cruiser either!!!)i will take the xtra stops over a regularr truck anyday...
Besides,it would blow my buddies minds if i were to get gas and pull out that dual filler knob to fill a second tank(it would be "priceless" as they say)oh well thats the way it goes


doug

 

[landtank]

-B- it was just something that popped into my skull while reading the posts. But after thinking more about it you would have to incorporate a capacitor timer so that when the low fuel switch on the aux tank hit it would continue pumping for a little depending on GPH of pump and amount of fuel at low level. Haven't calculated time constants like than in some time . To prevent the resetting of the circuit you would need to supply constant 12v to it and not switched. And if you really wanted to get fancy you could use the low fuel dash lamp to indicate when the aux tank was empty by being on steady and blink when the main was low on fuel :G.

I actually would love to do something like this but don't have the time in the forseeable future.

 

[cruiserdan]

A footnote about "used " fuel tanks.

Once a fuel tank has had gasoline in it, it may be considered HAZMAT even though it is empty and may be VERY costly to ship. In some cases it may not be possible to ship a "used" fuel tank unless it is chemicaly rendered "inert" and certified as such.(BIG$$$$$$)

 

[Hltoppr]

Welcome back Dan! Hope Utah was fun.

I guess our only real option is to ship the cruiser to OZ, wheel around and have a bunch of cool stuff installed, then ship it back to the US....

Gotta get the wife to go for that... 8)

-H-

 

[cruiserdan]

-H-

Piece of cake, Tell her it's a SAR in the outback and you were requested by name to attend as somebody is stuck in a snowcat and nobody there knows how the hell to find one. :

Ya want me to call her for ya?