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lock right: front or rear?

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by rusmannx, May 25, 2003.

  1. rusmannx

    rusmannx

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    i'm running both diffs open on my 72 fj40.  i want to throw in a locker and i think i'll go with the lock right because it is innexpensive.
    has anyone had any problems with this locker?
    also, should i lock the rear or front diff first?
    which diff (locked) would be the best for overall trail type performance?
    i'm not into huge rock crawlin or deep boggs, but i just pound the trails every weekend.
    any help would be great!

    russ
    central utah
    student of mechanical engineering
     
  2. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    Lock Right in front
    No Slip in rear
     
  3. arutgers

    arutgers

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    Check out this website: http://www.offroadlockers.com/ They claim to have an improved version of lock right for $199...
    Their advise is to install a front locker first, because most likely you loose traction there first.

    Ton
     
  4. FJAfrica

    FJAfrica

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    I've ordered one of these, couldn't wait any longer. Now I have to wait for the shipping, takes a while to get across the Atlantic ???. I am going to try it in the front and then in the back. On the Cruiser the front and the back are the same part #, so we will have to wait and see.
     
  5. Chef

    Chef

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    For non-extreme trail work I'd recommend lockrite rear, and auburn limited up front. YMMV, but a lockrite up front can lead to broken birfs pretty quick if you're not careful, and even with power steering, a locked front end can push pretty hard. I wish detroit would hurry of with the land cruiser application of their switchable limited slip/locker...I really prefer some sort of switchable locker for the front, be it arb, 80 series electric, old school toyota cable locker or whatever....
     
  6. rusmannx

    rusmannx

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    thanks for the input. i am running the power steering (home built saginaw... like a dream) and only 33's. i didn't think tires this small would give me much chance to kill a birfield.
    have any of you experienced such damage? while doing what?
     
  7. FJ_MONSTER

    FJ_MONSTER

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    reversing at full lock(wheel turned all the way).

    oh and do yourself a favor.IF YOU PUT A LOCKER IN THE FRONT. DO NOT "TRY IT OUT ON DRY PAVEMENT".YOU WILL BREAK IT OR A BIRF. :slap:
     
  8. jm

    jm

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    lockrite in the front w/ longfields... weld the rear... and then don't worry about breaking a birfield. The rear chirps a bit around city street corners, but is generally well behaved... even at 55mph.

    jm
     
  9. bodacious

    bodacious

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    i had a lockrite in the back and took it out...

    i dont think they are worth it.. i would wait and go with an arb later..after you have saved up some bling bling
     
  10. LT

    LT

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    I have a lock rite in the rear and it isn't that bad. On really sharp turns your cruiser will jump around a bit and you will hear a clicking noise when turning as well. I can drive up to 70 mph with no problems at all. I run 33" tires as well. I recommend putting the locker in the rear seeing that in my 78 i had one in the front and my 76 i have one in the rear. I think it's like 75% of all the traction is in the rear so that's where you want both tires turning at all times when off roading.
     
  11. axlechassis

    axlechassis

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    I read these posts with interest cause I haven't decided yet either. You see alot of people with the lokrite in the rear. for the fj40 this seems to work well and is certainly the most inexpensive and easiest way to a locker. Having come to cruisers from the land rover camp ( which emphasizes driver technique over technical gizmos', land rover's are alot more prone to breaking axles than cruisers) I'm still partial to open differentials 98% of the time. Thats why I'm still saving for ARB's but my wallet is telling me (loudly) to get a lokrite for the rear. Note too that when the toyota factory uses a locker it is a selectable one in the rear. :beer:
     
  12. denis

    denis (O) toyota nut (O) SILVER Star

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    I've read scary stuff about the lokright locking or releasing at unexpected time on the highway, so I decided to just weld the rear, and I'm very happy with the result.
    IMO a locker might be cheating, but it also allows to drive with more finesse rather than brute force and momentum that you sometimes need when you're open...
     
  13. ScottFJ40

    ScottFJ40

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    I am a lockright fan. I have put over 100K miles on my last 2 lockright equipped vehicles.
    I know some people complain about the road manners, but I have never had an issue. You will relearn how to drive with them, but it;s no biggy. As a matter of fact, my last vehicle, a toyota tacoma with 35's and a lockright, I used it as a courier vehicle for awhile, putting 1500 hwy miles on it per week, thats right, per week!

    My 40 has a lockright front and back. If you are a throttle jockey, you'll probably bus a birf. If you are more of a finesse driver i think you'll be fine.

    I'd stay away from the no-slip myself, I've seen 3 cases where they detonated(tacoma apps) and I have yet to personally see a blown up lockright.
     
  14. rusmannx

    rusmannx

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    well, i think i'll go with a lockright in the front first, and if i decided to weld the rear later i will.

    my thinking is that with lockright in the front... on the road while t-case in 2wd and hubs are open you would never know there is a locker up there right?
     
  15. Chef

    Chef

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    If you really want a locker up front, get an arb, 80 series electric, stock toyota cable locker...Hey Detroit, make the selectrac electric selectable locker for cruisers will ya! Lockers make the front end push instead of steer in some situations, lockers will break birfs in some situations, but there are longfields to work around that. Put it in the rear first, it's a much easier install, very effective...then dirve it for a season and see if you still want more:)
     
  16. rusmannx

    rusmannx

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    wouldn't it be cheaper to weld the rear?
    i see a spider/side gear kit for $80.
    i could just replace them with new
    if i decide i hate the weld.

    am i wrong?
     
  17. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    Just my opinion, but first locker in the front is a bad idea.

    During most obstacles and especially hill climbs, all the weight of the vehicle is focused towards the rear. This enables you to "push through" the obstacle.

    If you decide to put it up front, take the advice of the board, and NEVER cut the wheel in reverse. You are sure to break something.

    I am a huge advocate of ARB. I have never had a problem with them, and I don't have to worry about adjusting to the locker. I know that they are probably more than you want to spend.... but they are worth every penny in my opinion. Also, a locker in the front seriously affects your turning radius when locked. It is very nice on a tight trail to be able to disengage the ARB and make the turn with out having to pull an Austin Powers (first movie). You get what you pay for. Just my opinion… takes it for what it is worth.

    Ryan
    '75 FJ40
     
  18. SpaceGhost

    SpaceGhost

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    Correct, you wouldn't know if it was welded either, so on road issues are mute regardless of locker choice. ARB's are the most desirable, most flexible, and most expensive.

    Russ, if you want to improve your vehicle, still drive it daily, get further down the trail (easier) and have $$ in your pocket too, then slap a semi floating lock right in the rear. Take it easy on the road till ya get comfy with the quirks. Leave the front open, for now. Make sure your suspension works as good as possible, so it will flex enough to keep your wheels on the ground. Oh, and make sure that the correct shim thickness is present during the install, and the Lockright will work as well, and long as any other locker (based on what I think you indicated your rig has).

    Later you can move the rear lockright to the front, and decide what to do in the rear. Keep in mind you have to have the whole machine working together, a stiff locked up rig won't go as far as a supple open one.

    If ya drive on slick surfaces on the road, like sheet ice. Open or ARB's are the only thing that won't misbehave. Disagree if ya want, cause I don't know JACK!
     
  19. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    I agree with Ryan, I was thinking about welding, spool, or something like a lockright in the back for a long time.  Thought more about it, decided I do an awful lot of road driving that is already precarious due to manual steering and 4wheel drums.  I don't need anything to make it worse.  So now I am currently saving the bling to drop on ARB's f & r.
    Spaceghost: Whats you'r opinion on the longevity and/or durability of a properly installed ARB on an otherwise near stock 40? (33's 4 spd F engine). Junk has been whining about his for a long time, and I can't decide if its just Junk, or if they really are something to whine about breaking.
     
  20. SpaceGhost

    SpaceGhost

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    Re: lock right: front or rear:

    The only problem I have ever seen on an ARB is the seals leaking air. I installed (not someone else) my front one a couple of years ago and it works flawlessly. I switch in it in and out lots in comps, makes turning easier. It has been in deep water, ran with less gear oil than recommended. I have also snapped over a dozen front inner axles while it was locked and it hasn't complained, unlike a Detroit which would be junked.

    The key is preparation and details. If it is installed properly as you suggested, it will last a long friggin time and be a major improvement in all ways. The pumps are suspect, make lots of noise and will eat the relays or harness connections if you have leaks and they run all the time.

    I modded my lines to use the push lock AN-4 fittings and a good rubber hose. It stretches some and is not brittle. I air it with a york and its regulated to the 95lbs ARB switches shut off at. If I didn't trust it, the front would be welded like the rear.

    I don't need street manners from my rig. Instead I need all four wheels pulling, all the time (when locked) and without unexpected failure. I can swap a birf or inner axle in less than 30 minutes, yanking a third from the front is gonna be at least 90 minutes, it's all calculated failure points for me.

    BTW, I have wheeled with bigger tires than the 35" Krawlers on today. Only marginally bigger were the 38 tsl's, and 37 MTR's. The Krawlers hook up better than either of the others and are much harder on s***.

    You'll be fine with the arb's! But what about those brakes?