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Lights Out??

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by customcruiser, Jul 23, 2003.

  1. customcruiser

    customcruiser Old Member

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    Last night I was gonna drive my cruiser to a friends house (although its not street legal, but only a mile away) but for some reason the head lights dont work now. ??? The only thing that I have done is take off the hard top and disconnect the dome light but its on a switch so that couldnt be it. The tail lights still work so I dont know where to start. Maybe the switch -- is there a way to bypass to get the power to the lights to see if its the switch??

    Thanks for the help
     
  2. johnny

    johnny

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    i know this is obvious, but it way just be the fuse. good luck if it isn't
     
  3. hammerhead

    hammerhead

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    Be sure you didn't blow a fuse or something when you were in the process. when I got my 74 it was so cross-wired I had things that weren't even related blowing each other out. I promptly tired of this and pulled out the whole harness, stipped of the wrapping, threw out unwanted bits, and grafted in chevy style wiring to go with my SBC. Now, all is good. Even kept stock switching. (It took a few hours of beating my head against the toy and chev manuals)
    Is yours untouched stock, or is it modified?
     
  4. customcruiser

    customcruiser Old Member

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    Replaced all fuses
    Wiring is cut and splice :mad: looks like the back of my home stereo system :D the PO even used speaker wire in many places.
    Probally just gonna go with Painless unless anyones used anything else, dont want to fix one thing just for somthin else to go out. I also want to use the stock swtiches.
     
  5. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    custom,

    I just spent about a week(only a couple hrs a day) re-building my stock harness in my 40.

    Just my $.02 but I really recomend doing a re-build over going with the painless. It takes a little more time to do, but you learn A LOT more about where everything goes...plus you can add sheilding to areas that are getting hot and wire for aux purposes while you are doing it.

    The only recomendations that I have are LABEL EVERY CONNECTION in a way that you will remember. Be sure and test every connection(multi-meter if you have one, test light if you don't) It helps if you can soder, and I shrink tubed every connection were I put in new wire. I have little or no electrical experience, so if I can do it anyone can.

    You end up saveing a good chunk of change and you learn more in the process. It is pretty boring stuff, but well worth it in the end

    Rant ended....

    P.S. If you need a Painless, I know someone who is looking to get rid of one new in box for a little more that half the cost of a new one.
     
  6. citabria

    citabria

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    Do you still know someone who is looking to sell a Painless Wiring kit? I'm in the market
     
  7. db

    db

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    Do you have access to a multimeter. If so check for power and a ground at either bulb. One of the two will be missing. If it is the power go to the switch. Check for power in and power out.If power is in but not out with switch on, bad switch. If power is in and is out at switch, broken wire from switch to lamps. If it is the ground, follow the wire to the break. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but I do not know what you know about electronics. I do electronics (avionics) on jets. If you need help let me know what you have done. The lighting diagram is in chilton's . If you need a copy I can email it to you. I can walk you threw the whole process.

    Derek
     
  8. dd113

    dd113

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    Unless your truck burned to the ground a Painless kit will not be painless at all. PO crap is just that, crap, it was not installed correctly so pull it out. Your headlight issue almost has to be the fuse or the batt or the connectors at the lights. Could be the switch, jump around the connector and see it they work.