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Lift for 40's or 44's

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by customcruiser, Jun 10, 2003.

  1. customcruiser

    customcruiser Old Member

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    I have a 71 fj40 with a custom 4" Block lift. Blocks welded to frame under every leaf spring mount. Was wanting to do a SOA but not sure what springs to use. Thinking about OME/BDS/whatever for the extra lift to fit 40's maybe 44's and taking off the blocks, anybody got any goods or bads on leaving these on. Also I have heard of people using springs from different model cruisers in the rear or even flipping springs to extend the wheel base.

    I live in NC and have lots of thick red clay and deep holes so I need somthing big and strong.

    Not so near future conversions:
    Lockers (front to be welded), Front Disc, ps, Advanced Adapters Orion, Dana 60's, Engine and trans (SM420) still looking <-- I like that 4 letter word (FORD) and gotta have that 4:20 :beer:.

    Thanks for any advice
     
  2. zuluzeugma

    zuluzeugma SILVER Star

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    where in NC are you?
     
  3. woody

    woody Internet Fireman Staff Member

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    I run FJ55 stock rear leaf packs at all 4 corners of my FJ40 with a 1" body lift and 38.5 SX's rub but work well with no flex limits.

    IMO, run 44044 waggy springs at all 4 corners, add in a body-lift of 1", maybe 2" if you must, and 40's outta fit. Flexy suspension tho, perhaps not the best for mud.

    Another option would be 2" lift rear springs for a 60-62-series Cruiser wagon.....

    I would not weld the front if you like to steer.

    If you are doing D60's, plan on a centered t-case. Run a 350/454 -> SM465 -> NP205 case and keep a centered rear axle OR Ford 350/460 -> NP435 granny/C-6 auto -> NP205 t-case....better yet, since you just buy the driveline complete form a 78-ish fullsize Ford truck and install it complete.

    With lots of luck, the entire drivetrain will run ya under $1500...buy a complete truck.
     
  4. customcruiser

    customcruiser Old Member

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    ??what is IMO??

    i am wanting to extend the wheel base.

    with the 55's will I have to remount the rear hangers? are the waggy springs for a YJ but can be used for FJ40, will i need new hangers, YJ ones??
    I think my first choice will be the 44044 then the 2" 60-62 springs. What about the 4" blocks. I should remove, right?? then I will have to remount hangers anyway, so I guess my question is what hangers will I need and where do I get...
    also doing a shackle reversal do you recommand a kit like OME or use stock.

    As for the body lift I don't think I can use b/c the whole body is custom and is straight welded to the frame in the rear. What about extended shackles to make up the 1-2 inch.

    As for the welded front, I would unlocking the hubs for the road. so you think this would be a mistake

    woody much thanx
     
  5. zuluzeugma

    zuluzeugma SILVER Star

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    I may have misunderstood you. did you say youre going to run 40's on stock axles?
     
  6. canuck_

    canuck_

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    What tires are you running currently right now?
    Are you willing to sacrifice some flex to fit those 40s or 44s?
     
  7. MarkFJ40

    MarkFJ40

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    Tim (WOLF359) cleared 44's with 2.5" Rancho lift springs way back when he first got his Dana60/70.
     
  8. fresno-lc

    fresno-lc

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    STOP CUSTOMISING DAMNIT whin you decide you dont want a cruiser anymore and a reel cruser head comes to look at it their gona be pissed at all your uh "custamising" that they will have to un do I understand you diddnt do the block lift but still!  Just for lags why don you post a pich of your custum body?  I hope to be proved rong. :tomatoe:
     
  9. customcruiser

    customcruiser Old Member

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    34x10.50 LTB's and am looking for maximum flex. I have stock axles now but looking for somthing much stronger hince the Dana 60's.

    and just for you fres(has)no-tlc, most these posts are about CUSTOMIZING and besides no one will have to undo anything on mine since nothing will be left when I am done but a pile of metal. and I really cant believe that you can understand this forum skipping all of those spelling classes
    me:slap:fresno-tlc

    sorry no new pics with hacked off front bumper and new 34x10.50 LTB's
     
  10. fresno-lc

    fresno-lc

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    Im not saying keep it stock by any meens. Yeay I cant spell, but, so what, you know what I meen.  You should make your rig however you want but welding the body to the frame does not make much sence. There is a reasen that they didn't make these things unibody.  I have a 69 fj40 with saganaw steering, gm tilt collum, custom tc flor shifter, custum reer seet, hei distributer, and soon to be tbi. there is other stuff I just cant think of and all the work was done by me and more will come when I get the money so dont say that im agnst custmisation just aganst boty-fab.

    fresnotlc :urinate:s on customcruiser
     
  11. customcruiser

    customcruiser Old Member

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    I bought it like this, I really want to put in a tailgate so it doesn't quite look like a stupid mail jeep from behind, but i'm worried about the flex and rear not being as strong.
    I agree about the boty fab i would have said booty but thats just me. lol
    Check out the pics it's still a cruiser besides :givecrap:
    dont make me :slap: again LOL!!
     
  12. fresno-lc

    fresno-lc

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    I thought you did the body custmising, thats why I was giving you a hard time. Personly I would uncustmise most of that. Those lift blocks look tike the welds could snap easly and I wouldnt want to be there when it happned. I would redo the tailgate and bumper but thats not as urgent as the lift blocks. Hey the body looks way better than mine, at lest from the front. The body mounts look prety boty (booty) fab.
     
  13. Medusa

    Medusa

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    Hold off on getting big tires until you have a drive train that is strong enough to hold up to the big meats.
     
  14. moralien

    moralien

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    On the catwalk.
    And put your bezel on right.