LCA Sleeve (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 12, 2008
Threads
10
Messages
182
Location
Cedaredge, CO
I've searched and search but can't seem to find an answer. I'm interested in extending my LCA's and have been debating on going with DOM or schedule 80 pipe. DOM is the best choice but so expensive compared to pipe... but should pipe even be an option? There's a few cases here on mud that I found where schedule 80 was used to sleeve the LCA's. I'm wondering if this is just a disaster waiting to happen or is it a safe material to use for this application. I'd go DOM but I'd like to save some cash for some of the other issues that need attention.
5' of DOM will cost me around $90 at the steel yard where pipe will only run me $10.
 
$90 for 5' of DOM is INSANE!
 
There is only one way to find out for sure if pipe will work for you. If you slam rocks hard you will bend DOM too. And if you don't slam rocks, pipe will do the job.
 
Gonna give the pipe a try, went and got a 5' section this morning and it looks like pretty tough stuff. Sure seems like it'll be an improvement over the stock arms.

I see two options on how to sleeve it using pipe. The simpler option, cut the arm in two, cut the pipe to the new length, drill some rosettes in the pipe, slide the arms in the pipe and weld it all together.

2nd option, cut the LCA in two, butt weld on a new 1" or so section in the middle making the stock arm a single piece again but at the corrected length (tbd). Then cut the pipe to the correct size and then in half (longways) taking out the seam in doing so. Then weld the two halfs directly onto the tube of the LCA and welding the pipe back together at the same time.... Hope that made sense.
 
Last edited:
Maybe I'm missing ti but if you're going to cut the pipe lengthwise then why cut the LCA at all? Why not just weld the two cut halves together right over and onto the existing arm? You'd need the right size pipe for the right fitment of course..

EDIT- sorry, missed that you were extending the arms.

Carry on folks, nothing to see here...:slap:
 
Maybe I'm missing ti but if you're going to cut the pipe lengthwise then why cut the LCA at all? Why not just weld the two cut halves together right over and onto the existing arm? You'd need the right size pipe for the right fitment of course..

EDIT- sorry, missed that you were extending the arms.

Carry on folks, nothing to see here...:slap:

Just installed new ujoints and there's still a persistent vibration coming from the rear. I need to extend the LCA's so I can rotate the axle back to the proper angle in hopes that eliminates the vibs, otherwise another DC shaft is in my future. So that's the main reason I'm sleeving them right now but the rock rash on them is telling me there's other reasons as well. ;)
 
I've been thinking of putting either angle iron or pipe reinforcement/braces on the lower sides of the arms on mine for that reason, scrapes. Some folks wheel a lot harder than I do though and they seem to make out OK, so still on the fence about this mod.
 
Man I would really hesitate on using poop pipe for something that gets dragged through the rocks. Grab a hammer and hit the pipe hard, you will see what I mean. If I were you I would use what you have to see if the vibrations go away, then build an entirely new set of LCA's with new heims and .250 wall DOM. I may not have a high post count, but I do have a big pile of broken parts...

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DOMTUBE.html

MT%20LC100%20Rear%20Links%20B.jpg
 
If your gonna spend that kind of money just buy the MT adjustable units.
 
No desire at all to go with heims anymore, been there done that, getting to old and set in my ways for the ride quality they provide ;) Gonna use the poop pipe right now to see if it does help with the vibes, then I'll put it through the wringer on some trails and see how it holds up. Shouldn't take to long as much as I seem to hit them lol. If they can't handle the abuse then I'll go a different route, maybe pick up a set from Landtank or rebuild mine again by just using the joints and some fresh DOM... when I'm richer that is...

http://ajikoverlandexchange.com/products-page/landtank/heavy-duty-rear-lower-control-arms/
 
I would cut the current arms in half, set your length and then sleeve the solid piece of SCH80 over them and then rosette along the length. Biggest thing with using the SCH80 is to make sure the current arms fit snuggly in the ID of the pipe. That is the good thing about the DOM, if you get the right size, they almost have to be driven in with a hammer they are so snug. If there is any gap between the LCA and the pipe, you will likely see premature failure as the inner arm will be able to generate leverage against the pipe which will multiply the force on the welds and the wall of the pipe.

Make sure you post up what you end up with.
 
You guys seem to be trying to reinvent the wheel. Just do what the Arizona guys do. It works great and only $45 dollars worth of DOM.
 
if you want cheap, get some angle iron, cut the lca and weld it to the angle. I did this to my stock lca's and they are strong as heck, I used 3/16 angle and just did several good stitch welds. If I were doing an extension I would completely weld.
 
Last edited:
... And if you don't slam rocks, pipe will do the job.

Have done a bunch of them, mainly with poop pipe. Most on rigs that get wheeled often and contact rock, with zero failures. If you are slamming them hard enough to damage them, even with poop pipe, are likely to also damage/deform the factory bushing holders and/or frame mounts, have seen this without bending poop pipe reinforced arms.

Mine have 2" x 1/4" angle welded to them, done in 2006, have hundreds of trail days on them. One is slightly bent, but was a very memorable event, my teeth still hurt just thinking about it!:hillbilly:

Poop pipe arms:
lx450_14-jpg.768186
 
The old poop pipe .vs. DOM debate. I used DOM when I did mine. Haven't so much as dinged one dropping it on rocks. By the way I sometimes go over the Boulder barriers out at the entrance of logging roads to prevent people from wheeling, so I've smacked a few rocks. Schedule 80 is some tough stuff for sure, but it is more brittle by itself is the only issue. Then you go and add heat to points along the length creating weaker more brittle points. But as long as the LCA tubing is nice and tight inside the Sch80, you should t really have issues. Personally I look at it like, if I'm driving down the freeway and my daughter is in the back and some previous damage to the LCA results in a catastrophic failure going 70mph, is my cruiser going to remain controllable until it's safely off the road? Or is it going to dip to one side, steer my cruiser from the rear a bit and cause a rollover which could result in my little girl getting hurt? Regardless of the the way it would play out and the mechanics of losing an LCA on the freeway, I would never take that chance and my material for the top and bottom control arms was heavy wall stuff and ran me $78 for all of it. $78 of assurance my little girl is protected. Either way you go, it's all in how you use your rig and what you feel comfortable with. I always say, if there is a question of safety cost shouldn't be a consideration, you can always save and wait.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom