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Knuckle Rebuild Questions

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Trevor, May 23, 2003.

  1. Trevor

    Trevor

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    I'm going to spend this weekend rebuilding the front end on my 77 FJ40. Therefore, I'm going to use this thread for any problems that I run into. So...

    Problem #1: How the heck do I separate the birfield from the inner axle? I have seen Mark Whatley's method with the Schedule 40 pipe, but it's not working for me. Should I just keep dropping it? How many drops will it take? It's starting to curve the end of the pipe in around the axle. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm glad I'm not on the trail repairing this, I'd be SOL!
     
  2. SpaceGhost

    SpaceGhost

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    Are you dropping the axle assembly into the pipe? That won't work. Get some gloves, slide the axle into the pipe. Hold the birf stub with your strong hand and the pipe with the other. Raise as hi over your head as possible and slam the pipe to the ground. I suggest at least a piece of plywood protecting a hard surface, like driveway or garage floor.

    Once you do it hard enough it will seperate! The pipe deforms before the inner cage/race so don't fret.
     
  3. Trevor

    Trevor

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    Cool. I'll give it a try in the morning. I had to stop because the neighbors were complaining about the noise. :p I forgot that I was working on a Land Crusier. I was being gentle with it, as if it were a Jeep axle... :G
     
  4. Trevor

    Trevor

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    Thanks SpaceGhost, it worked.

    Question #2: I'm putting everything back together now. How much wheel bearing preload should there be, according to the fish scale method?
     
  5. darkman

    darkman

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    Trevor:

    A right angle pull of 3.9 to 5 lbs is correct to move the steering knuckle assembly in either direction. This pull should be done from the knuckle arm.

    I think that's what your looking for

    Mike
     
  6. Ky_-_Hoosier

    Ky_-_Hoosier

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    What is the fish scale method? If it means attaching a fish weighing device onto the end of a wrench and pulling 3.9 to 5 lbs. of weight, then the length of the wrench is a logistic imperative.
    In the absence of a torque wrench I always tighten until I feel restriction , while turning the wheel ,then back the locknut off until the wheel starts to roll freely,then grasp the tire at the top and check for any looseness by pushing in and out on the tire. If all of this is satisfactory insert the cotter pin into the nut and you should be good to go. Wheels should be checked periodicly for any looseness.
     
  7. Trevor

    Trevor

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    Actually, I was wondering if there is a number for the wheel bearings, similar to the knuckle.

    Now I'm a little worried about the knuckle. I read here:

    http://disc.server.com/discussion.cgi?id=47751;article=99566

    that the knuckle should be 8 to 12 pounds. Mine is around 8, but I thought that felt a little tight. Should I re shim it?
     
  8. darkman

    darkman

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    Trevor

    My reference (repair manual) has it at 3.9 to 5 lbs for knuckle bearings. That is what i thought that you were refering to.

    I haven't heard of a similar method for wheel bearings.

    For wheel bearings I use the old method of tightening the inner adjusting nut until the bearing is fully seated while turning the disc by hand. Then, backing off the nut 1/8 turn, reassembling, and checking to ensure that there is no play in the bearing. None of my references have a specific tourque for wheel bearings.

    Mike
     
  9. Bama_B

    Bama_B

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    3.9-5 lbs is all you need on the pre load (or so says the friendly Toyota man)...

    Not to beat a dead horse (or separated birf, as it were) but 1.5 in Sch 80 PVC (black) works best for separating axles by the pipe method. It doesnt deform or crack nearly as bad as the Sch 40 (white) pipe will. Remember to stuff a rag in the bottom of the pipe to prevent damage to the inner axle splines. Learned from anothers bad experience. :stupid: