JungleBiker's FJ45 (2 Viewers)

[tlc762]

Not sure about working with a semi float and c clips as I never had a truetrac only aussie locker and spartan locker so far. I have seen a thread on here about converting semi-float to full-float just like you are thinking.... using the front removable/replaceable front spindles is much better idea than toyota originally did where you have to repalcae an entire axle housing if a spindle is damaged...that looks like a cool project. Another example where rover had a better idea for long term use, but there aren't that many more (remember we're cruiserheads on here).
let us know how it goes...
Will

 

[JungleBiker]

(remember we're cruiserheads on here).

Will

You're right, and in spite of my enduring love or LR's, I really do also like old Cruisers. I appreciate this site and all the help I have gotten from people here. I'll tone down my "pro-ancient-Land-Rovers" comments.

Andrew

 

[Honger]

You're right, and in spite of my enduring love or LR's, I really do also like old Cruisers. I appreciate this site and all the help I have gotten from people here. I'll tone down my "pro-ancient-Land-Rovers" comments.

Andrew

Bah, don't fret the LR comments... most of here respect them in some way/shape/form. Just expect a little ribbing now and then.

 

[JungleBiker]

Everything is on hold until we get that HZJ75 in the shop to part out--it's only got 286,000 km on it... better than the other two, one of which had 450,000 km and the other 430,000.

We had a look at it a few days ago, the axles look pretty good, brakes are probably okay, power steering is leaking pretty bad, not sure if it will be rebuildable or not. H55F trans seems okay. 1HZ engine is pretty decent and will probably go into the one that has 450,000 km on it.

Just out of curiosity, is there any restriction on shipping used 1HZ's into the US? We're going to have a couple of used ones here that we're going to be selling, running but tired engines. Personally I think the 1HZ is a bit overrated (hopefully I won't be banned for admitting THAT heresy!! ), but I know a lot of people think very highly of them.

 

[JungleBiker]

I've been referring to that differential I found as a "Detroit TruTrac", but that's only because I didn't know what else to call it! I now know that it is a Torsen Type 1 differential, looks like a size 47. I'm still not sure who actually made it, since it looks like these were made by several different companies, but I suppose this one could have been made by Torsen. Hard to say, I guess. Here's a write-up on how it works: http://torsen.info/files/Torsen T-1 Technical Sheet.pdf

 

[JungleBiker]

Anybody familiar with a company called "Triple D" and their "Dual Drive" aftermarket diff offered for Land Cruisers back in the 1970's?

Gleason's Impossible Differential

 

[cult45]

Nice work, Jungle-B!

 

[JungleBiker]

FINALLY got that HZJ75 parts truck into the shop. 199? Toyota HZJ75 Land Cruiser, 1HZ engine, under 300,000 km, 5 Jeep Service tires mounted on factory split rims, one gentle owner:

good interior, new driver's side seat cover:

Argh, the pictures don't do it justice--you can't see the body filler falling out all along the driver's side. Also doesn't adequately show the driver's side front wheel leaning inward alarmingly.

The top half of the cab, the grill and the bonnet are all surprisingly good, those will all be used on our shop Land Cruiser, which has terrifically bad examples of those same parts. The engine is pretty good, not sure what we'll do with that just yet. 5 speed H55F trans will go into something or other, rear axle and the new rear springs will probably go to me for my FJ45, possibly all the brakes and the brake master cylinder will go to me, power steering pump is shot, and the steering box, (which was reportedly replaced a year ago with a rebuilt one from Australia) is leaking very badly--I will probably take it and see if it can be rebuilt (again) or not. Anything else I need from this for my 45?

 

[ozcrusier]

Booster and master also the front knuckles, calipers ,rotors etc. Tyres wheels look good to me . I would love the steering wheel what 45 parts you chasing now.

 

[JungleBiker]

Booster and master also the front knuckles, calipers ,rotors etc. Tyres wheels look good to me . I would love the steering wheel what 45 parts you chasing now.

Yeah, I was already thinking to try to use all of the brake parts from this truck, take everything and adapt it to the 45, seems like that would be a quick way to get to a system that I know works properly as a unit.

The FF rear end will go to the 45 (yes, I've read all the arguments for and against FF rear ends, it's like reading about shackle reversals or SBC vs. 2f engines) leaving the brakes on it will make that transition all that much easier. I gather that the Aussie 75's have disc brakes on the rear, the general export ones don't, they still have drums.

I took the headlights and headlight buckets from the 75, they are already installed in the 45. They might stick out maybe 4 or 5 mm farther than the originals, but they don't look funny. Interestingly, I had to swap them around, right side from the 75 had to go to the left on the 45 and so on because of the location of the spring and the adjustment screws. At first I thought that they weren't going to fit at all, because the buckets, although of similar design, do look a bit different.

I already have tyres and wheels that I plan to use, plus, though you can't see it in the photo, the driver's side front wheel on the 75 has hit a pothole or something pretty hard and has been slightly deformed, which has caused the end of the split ring to pop out of its groove. It makes me feel a little nervous just walking past that wheel, but I have seen this sort of damage before and have yet to see a ring actually pop out because of it. I think that whatever damaged the wheel may also have been what caused the lower knuckle bearing to collapse, hopefully I can use the new parts I just used to rebuild my original front knuckles to rebuild these.

Seriously, the steering wheel? What makes it better than the 45 steering wheel?

 

[ozcrusier]

The rear discs brakes come on line from the early 90's but the hand brake assemble fills with mud and crap and flog out fast. I was going to run the 70' series tilt column with the power steering box in my old 45 ute to try and get more leg room.

 

[JungleBiker]

Ah, this 75 doesn't have a tilt column. Never seen a tilt column in any 70 series here, I guess the general export trucks are pretty bare-bones examples of the type.

 

[JungleBiker]

Yay! Headlights! Now all I need is wires... some volts...

 

[ozcrusier]

OY is looking good with them lights.

 

[cult45]

HZJ45 w/HJ60 power steer?

 

[JungleBiker]

OY is looking good with them lights.

I think the OY badge is going to end up staying. I may try centering it a little better at some point.

HZJ45 w/HJ60 power steer?

One of my co-workers here tried to talk me into putting the whole 1HZ engine and trans in, but 2 problems: 1.) those are worth a lot more than I am willing/able to pay for them, and 2.) I don't like diesels.*

No, we'll use the 1HZ in another truck that needs it, the H55F trans will sit around until either I or one of my co-workers finds a use or a buyer for it. The only reason why I don't automatically go for it is because I think I understand that it won't fit unless I go through the trouble of changing my propshafts/driveshafts (shortening the rear and lengthening the front) in order to be able to use it.

Unless somebody can confirm that the combination of H55F trans, transfer case and 75 propshafts will fit in the 45? I can see I'm going to have to go spend some time under the truck with a tape measure.






*I work around diesels, I drive diesels a lot, (Toyota 2L/3L/5L, 1HZ, 3B, 14B, Mazda/Ford WL-T and whatever the one is that replaced that one in the Thai built Rangers, Mitsubishi 4D56/4D56-T, Nissan 3.2 4cyl, TD42, US spec Ford/International 7.3 turbo V8, and a 855 inch Cummins in a 5 ton army truck), these are all engines I am around all the time and the one thing I have found that they all have in common (except maybe the 7.3 Ford and the Cummins 855) is that they are all terrifically expensive to fix. Sooner or later they all need to have the injector pumps and/or injectors fixed/rebuilt/replaced, all them end up with glow plug problems or glow plug timer problems, etc. and every little piece seems to cost a fortune. In contrast, my Land Rover 2.25 litre, used the same way that most of the diesels here are, never seems to need anything, especially not since I upgraded to electronic ignition. Same with the engine in my wife's '79 Mitsubishi bus. Never needs anything, just keeps plugging away. In fact, if I look around here, all of the oldest vehicles that are still in daily use are all petrol powered, and none of them ever seem to need much more than the occaissonal tune-up, timing belts or chains, maybe a new distributor or a new carb every couple decades. No biggie.

 

[lostmarbles]

...*I work around diesels, I drive diesels a lot, (Toyota 2L/3L/5L, 1HZ, 3B, 14B, Mazda/Ford WL-T and whatever the one is that replaced that one in the Thai built Rangers, Mitsubishi 4D56/4D56-T, Nissan 3.2 4cyl, TD42, US spec Ford/International 7.3 turbo V8, and a 855 inch Cummins in a 5 ton army truck), these are all engines I am around all the time and the one thing I have found that they all have in common (except maybe the 7.3 Ford and the Cummins 855) is that they are all terrifically expensive to fix. Sooner or later they all need to have the injector pumps and/or injectors fixed/rebuilt/replaced, all them end up with glow plug problems or glow plug timer problems, etc. and every little piece seems to cost a fortune. In contrast, my Land Rover 2.25 litre, used the same way that most of the diesels here are, never seems to need anything, especially not since I upgraded to electronic ignition. Same with the engine in my wife's '79 Mitsubishi bus. Never needs anything, just keeps plugging away. In fact, if I look around here, all of the oldest vehicles that are still in daily use are all petrol powered, and none of them ever seem to need much more than the occaissonal tune-up, timing belts or chains, maybe a new distributor or a new carb every couple decades. No biggie.

And I always thought diesels lasted for the highest mileages and required the least maintenance!

Our experiences are opposite here....



PS. Thinking about this more, I think the problem is most likely to be that diesel-abuse is more rife where you are. (Such as feeding them contaminated fuel.)

PPS. Sure the parts are more expensive but with a diesel the parts should seldom need replacing.

 

[JungleBiker]

And I always thought diesels lasted for the highest mileages and required the least maintenance!

Our experiences are opposite here....



PS. Thinking about this more, I think the problem is most likely to be that diesel-abuse is more rife where you are. (Such as feeding them contaminated fuel.)

PPS. Sure the parts are more expensive but with a diesel the parts should seldom need replacing.

You are certainly right about the abuse, Tom! Diesels here are certainly abused to death. Dirty fuel, frequent overloading, always in too high a gear (to save fuel, donchaknow) and constant starting/stopping (again to save fuel), constant push-starting (to save money on buying a new battery or a new starter or a new alternator or maybe all three) plus either a complete lack of maintenance or maintenance done by bush mechanics who are way too quick to pull an engine all to pieces and then reassemble it with all of the original gaskets and head bolts, that kind of thing seems to be harder on diesels than it is on petrol engines.

But even among the ex-pat community (mostly Americans, Aussies, Europeans), where most of the above problems don't exist, the petrol engines seem to last longer. I think it's because most of the driving being done is really short range; start, drive 10 minutes, shut it down, leave it parked for 20 minutes, then start it back up, drive 5 minutes, shut it down, repeat. Do only that kind of driving for 6 months, then suddenly decide to drive 2 hours to Goroka or 4 hours to Lae. Petrol engines just seem to handle that kind of life better. When I drive the 7.3TD V8 Ford or the big Cummins 855, I start it up and leave it running until the work is done. Sometimes that means it runs all day long and I am totally okay with that, most of the locals aren't. I've had some of my PNG co-workers fussing at me for leaving the engine running when the truck is parked, "pasim ensin, ia! No gut yu westim fuel, ia!" ("shut it down! You're wasting diesel, [you ninny]!")


If I'm totally honest, I just like gasoline/petrol engines better, especially simple, carbureted, non-emissions controlled ones that have been converted to electronic ignition. I find them much easier/cheaper to work on, more forgiving to use and more fun to drive.

 

[cult45]

A 1HZ/H55 will fit cause I seen it Johnny. And don't quote me but all ya gotta do to run a fine spline H55 behind a 2F is use a fine spline clutch. But like I said, don't quote me - quote @catskinner instead - he told me so.

 

[cult45]

I think there are differences in the lengths of the input shafts too and if so that would necessitate at least a bellhousing swap (+ ?)

Not too sure Tom but I bet plenty would be interested!