Jim S. FJ40 Tuneup (1 Viewer)

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If it's sitting long enough for the fuel pressure to leak down, the oil has also likely drained out of the bearings, filter, etc. Having it turn a few times to get the oil moving before firing would be a good thing? The 1FZ turns a couple of times before firing for just that reason.

I think these same thoughts when firing my 3FE in my Pig. Sometimes she sits for a week or more. Happy to get that oil pressure up before combustion occurs.
 
Rootbeer is back under the knife. One of the issues is fuel delivery, I have never been a fan of the pump hung on the frame deal. Have dealt with some that worked, and fought others, IMHO, the in tank method is a more solid, reliable method.

This one worked, then started progressively having more issues. When worked hard, would get bubbles, foam in the intake lines to the pump, start to miss, pushed harder would die, wait a bit restart, repeat. Fought it a bit, sealed any potential leaks, etc, decided to go another direction.

The first victim, a tank out of a FZJ80. Cleaned it out, filled with water, purged with nitrogen and cut the pump mount ring out of it.
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Drained and snatched the tank out of Rootbeer. This was a fresh drain, so took more care: First taped up the openings, put ~1/2gal of denatured alcohol, shook it around, drained, put some detergent and ~1 gal of water, shook well till the tank was full of foam, drained. Now, could hardly detect the smell of gas.

Drew some graffiti on the tank. Filled with water, purged it with nitrogen and cut the hole.
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Now could get a good look in the tank, there are baffles.
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The feed/pickup line terminates just inside of the drivers side baffle. It's the line at the lower corner of the tank. The line in the center side of the tank is the return, only goes into the tank ~1/4". Inkpot took some better pix on his phone.
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The baffles would work fine for a carb setup, as it was designed for and maybe for EFI, but didn't get a warm and fuzzy about them. A carb has the fuel bowl, so can handle brief supply interruptions, EFI can not.
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So, we made seal panels to additionally, more tightly control fuel movement. On the two side units, made one way valves, to only let fuel into the pump area.
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The front and back are just solid walls. Should do a better job of controling the fuel movement, keeping it around the pump at angles.
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Brazed, then epoxied the ring on.
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The pic is out of order, but the tank had little rust, treated it and shot the "Official" Cruiser color, Krylon satin black.:hillbilly:
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Added some rubber strips, cleaned up the floor and stuck it back in the rig.
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The pump and gauge arm needed to be shortened ~2". It looks like the sender will work with the '78 fuel gauge? Tried to cleanup as much as possible, but for insurance, added a couple of magnets next to the pickup.

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For the high pressure line, we used the banjo fitting from the '80. Used the double flair tool to put a bump/ridge on the end.
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Then crimped FI pressure rated hose to it.
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Installed and wired it with the pigtail cut from the '80. It now starts and runs great, have only briefly driven it, but no more stumbles, solid.
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Will be a while before we put many miles on it, working some other things, like, cleaning this up a bit?:hillbilly:
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I take no responsibility for that tangled mess in the dash.:bang: As usual great work guys and a shout out to Mark's Off Road for a replacement gauge cluster.
 
I love this... Now to see if it can be done on a 1981 fuel tank. There is more "topography" on the later tanks and locating a good place to install an intank pump/sender is a challenge.
 

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