Jim S. FJ40 Tuneup (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Did this a while ago, but got a bad valve, so haven't seen it work. Summit sent a new valve, so needed to get it changed out before we swapped Rootbeer for Raul.

It's a line lock, made for drag racers, in this case will be used as a hill holder. Mounted the valve at the end of the hard brake line, near the rear axle and put a switch on the shifter. To use, push the brakes as hard as needed, depress the button, release the brake pedal, the rear brakes will stay on until the button is released. Works great in the parking lot, will see how it works on the trail?
2fe_project_212.jpg

2fe_project_213.jpg
 
Last edited:
That would be very usefull when hanging your tail off a cliff thinking about what next to do.:flipoff2:
 
That would be very usefull when hanging your tail off a cliff thinking about what next to do.:flipoff2:

That is what we are hoping, but, in that scenario, it might be a bit before I would trust the button enough take my foot off of the brake pedal?:hillbilly:
 
I wonder if a mechanically activated line lock would be be more dependable than an electric activated one?
I can see where they would be useful to temporarily supplement the E-Brake in moments of indecision :hillbilly: - but they would have to be 100% dependable.
 
The electric valves are reported to be reliable. Mechanical could be more reliable, but would have "use" issues? The simple one is just a pressure rated valve, solid reliability. The other is a mechanical line lock, to lock, press the brake, push the lock, they release by hitting the brake pedal again or pulling the knob. The "packaging" issue is common to both, running brake lines up the shifter would be cumbersome? So, are limited for convenient/handy mounting locations? The electric is much more open to "packaging".

In my experience and reports indicate that the mechanical line locks have more reliability issues than the electric. They are more prone to sticking, leaking, etc.
 
Thanks - I might look into getting one - as a second emergency brake when parked temporarily with engine running.
The ones I see on the Web are for locking front or rear brakes, can they lock all brakes - or a different unit for all 4?
 
Thanks - I might look into getting one - as a second emergency brake when parked temporarily with engine running.
The ones I see on the Web are for locking front or rear brakes, can they lock all brakes - or a different unit for all 4?

You could get two units, (one front and one rear) but don't see the point? If you are in 4wd, it will affect both axles.
 
Great write up, Vegas isnt far away...you have a place to stay if you can help with some wiring?! Good Work!!!
 
Great write up, Vegas isnt far away...you have a place to stay if you can help with some wiring?! Good Work!!!

Thanks! I got over vegas a long time ago.:hillbilly:
 
I saw this 40 for sale in Boulder on the way back from Vegas. You are right, not too far away :)
Ok, am I seeing things? It looks like there is a strap of steel connecting the front shackles in the middle?
 
Ok, am I seeing things? It looks like there is a strap of steel connecting the front shackles in the middle?

It's a :hillbilly: sway bar, you wouldn't want something that tall to flex would you?;p
 
New technology never fails to amaze me!! Oh, PS, did you grab Dave's List?

Forgot, stopping by to get it right now.:eek:
 
I saw this 40 for sale in Boulder on the way back from Vegas. You are right, not too far away :)

I haven't driven up to Las Vegas in years but remember a FJ40 for sale on the main road thru Boulder. It couldn't be the same one? I didn't take a look since it didn't look that nice and already have a few:rolleyes:. One of which is a 73 FST not a 73 hard top minus the top.:meh:
 
As usual, when old stuff is taken apart, the column had issues. The upper bearing was very stiff, turn signal switch was a mess, needed a clean & lube job and had electrical connector issues. John successfully worked those.

The other issue was, no lower bearing. So used a hunk of acetal, cut away anything that didn't look like a bearing and press it in. Worked great, only has a thousandth or so of play and the column now spins free!:cool:

Cool idea with the acetal bushing!

My '78 column did not have any lower bearing, just a worn out bushing. This is one attribute of going with the 55 column when doing this conversion, as it has a lower bearing.

Trying to figure out why you wanted to retain the rag joint and add an upper u-joint?

mvc-332f-jpg.62876
 
It is in great condition, this type often has bushing wear, these look good. After lots of fiddling with the springs, it went together well, looks good.:cool:

Have you had any success pressing in new bushings? I found a p/n for a replacement a long time ago, but found a replacement pump (of the non-leaking variety) around the same time and took that route.
 
Base on the activity on thread like Tire Carriers?, it is likely that you will not get any response from him in this forum. You may want to start a conversation with him. Good luck.

Pretty easy to find him in the AZ-TRAL forum also.
 
One of the parts that proved elusive was the intake tube. There is lots of silicone "turbo tube", but IMHO, is way too stiff, would be hard on the air cleaner. Got this stuff from Fleet Pride, much more flexible. It is 3" inter-cooler output tube, from Power Products, CSB30. Still needs to be cut to size, shorter and installed.

My searches for this are coming up empty on the FleetPride site, and the general internets. Anyone gone looking for this stuff?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom