Subscribed... Good thing your doing a once over like you said you would do at the meeting.
Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
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Good that you listened to the little voice. I have regreted not listening countless times. Fortunately, the older I get, the more I listen to him.
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- #23
Yep, I have done that as well and know how that little voice never goes away. Im glad I am doing it now and not later when I would have a primary vehicle down.
Damn, nice and thorough job. I'll enjoy this thread. Thanks for posting it up.
It's funny how forgiving engines are and how they can sound and perform good even though the insides look like that.
It's funny how forgiving engines are and how they can sound and perform good even though the insides look like that.
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- #25
Thanks, kind of my theme with things like this. I want to put something in I know will be as or more reliable than what I am taking out (its hard when you are already starting with a Toyota).
I was really impressed how well this engine ran when I first fired it up, like I said no idea how long it sat for. Put diesel and new oil in it, purged air and it fired on a 1/4 turn in -1c weather with out a glow (got to love DI diesels). I'm very glad I have torn it down though, looking at all the little bits that where done wrong or carelessly I think it would have been ok for a wile but eventually would have caused issues.
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- #26
Yeah glad I listened to my gut.
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- #27
So I have ordered replacement liners pistons and rings, the nice thing is they come as kits so the liners,pistons and rings are all pre sized no need to file fit rings or anything like that. They are made by Dana in the UK.
I also have standard size Clevite 77 bearings on order for rods, main's, cam and thrust.
I spoke to a few machine shops today and hot tanking my block will not remove any rust other than rust that is loose. They recommended a local place that uses an electrically charged solution to remove rust, apparently it has no effect on non rusted metal. Problem is I need to have the block hot tanked $150 and then sent to this place to be stripped $250. I would really like to get this rust out but am not sure its worth the $400. I may try putting the oil cooler back on as well as any removed plugs and fill the block with industrial white vinegar as I have heard it works well removing cooling system rust. Would really like to get it cleaned out just not sure its worth the $400.
I also have standard size Clevite 77 bearings on order for rods, main's, cam and thrust.
I spoke to a few machine shops today and hot tanking my block will not remove any rust other than rust that is loose. They recommended a local place that uses an electrically charged solution to remove rust, apparently it has no effect on non rusted metal. Problem is I need to have the block hot tanked $150 and then sent to this place to be stripped $250. I would really like to get this rust out but am not sure its worth the $400. I may try putting the oil cooler back on as well as any removed plugs and fill the block with industrial white vinegar as I have heard it works well removing cooling system rust. Would really like to get it cleaned out just not sure its worth the $400.
You'd probaly want to hot tank it regardless...
Do a google search on "removing rust using electrolysis" and maybe experiment with some of the smaller parts...
Do a google search on "removing rust using electrolysis" and maybe experiment with some of the smaller parts...
Did you talk to the electrolysis place about what they do in detail? I have machine parts and other pieces including the occasional engine block degreased and derusted by a local metal cleaning outfit. They do everything in house and a 4 cyl diesel block with all the tin, nuts and bolts costs about $125 to have looking like new.
If you just have it hot tanked it will remove the majority of the scale/loose rust in the coolant passages. Hot tanking is a hot lye solution and lye/caustic soda actually does eat rust, just not very fast.
If you just have it hot tanked it will remove the majority of the scale/loose rust in the coolant passages. Hot tanking is a hot lye solution and lye/caustic soda actually does eat rust, just not very fast.
Do a google search on "removing rust using electrolysis" and maybe experiment with some of the smaller parts...
I've done that before and it worked very well, but very slowly. But a hot-tank wash will clean out the ports just as well.
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- #31
Thanks for the ideas.
I did ask him how long it took and he said a week or two in the tank for a really rusty block. He did say it would need to be completely oil and grease free before it went in his tank. So it would require a trip to the hot tank first.
I may have it hot tanked first then see how bad it still is and go from there.
I will try the electrolysis experiment on something like the oil cooler or thermostat housing.
I did ask him how long it took and he said a week or two in the tank for a really rusty block. He did say it would need to be completely oil and grease free before it went in his tank. So it would require a trip to the hot tank first.
I may have it hot tanked first then see how bad it still is and go from there.
I will try the electrolysis experiment on something like the oil cooler or thermostat housing.
Why not fill it with CLR?
I've electrolytically removed rust from the inside old rusted gas tanks in the past with good success. I think it would work very well for what you're trying to achieve.
Done this to small Briggs and Stratton tanks, works like a charm but does take a while.
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- #35
How would I do this with a block though, from what I have seen they are quite line of sight. Im not sure what effect it would have on the inside or how i would make that work.
Electrolysis works for all immersed points. It works on the nearest bits first.
For example, I've used it to free up pliers which were seized with rust.
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- #37
Ok great, I was thrown off by a few youtube vids iI watched today on it that said it was a directional thing? It did not make sense to me at the time.
Ill have to see if i can get a large rubber tub to fit the block in and submerge it. May need to flip it and do it in halves.
I got lots of time if it takes a couple weeks then I'm ok with that, the beauty of not having a tight schedule.
I need to do more research on the quantity i need and how many amps i should run. I have charger that will do a 60A fast charge or 200A jump
Have a look at the links on this thread... it might give you some ideas on how to build a temporary tank...
and the tip for using a battery in parallel might come in handy if your charger is "intelligent"...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/129028-rust-removal-using-electrolysis-large-scale.html
and the tip for using a battery in parallel might come in handy if your charger is "intelligent"...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/129028-rust-removal-using-electrolysis-large-scale.html
Jeremy,
What kind of performance do you plan to get from this motor. I'm guessing you are going to play with boost and fuel increases... right?
Are you going to keep the stock axle ratios? (and what are they?)
Cheers.
What kind of performance do you plan to get from this motor. I'm guessing you are going to play with boost and fuel increases... right?
Are you going to keep the stock axle ratios? (and what are they?)
Cheers.
- Thread starter
- #40
Jeremy,
What kind of performance do you plan to get from this motor. I'm guessing you are going to play with boost and fuel increases... right?
Are you going to keep the stock axle ratios? (and what are they?)
Cheers.
I'm actually about 1/4 the way through writing up a long winded thesis on this at the moment. Been working on collecting all my thought's and ideas into one post so its not verbal diarrhea all across the thread as I go along. A lot of it is just parts I think will work and have educated guesses on based on other swaps. I hope to confirm them along the way for others.
I'll try and get it up tonight, I have a free evening to sit down and focus.
I'm keeping stock axles (4.10's) and running my current 315/75's (34.5" tires).
