Isuzu 4BD1-T swap into a '92 (2 Viewers)

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Progress

Today I finished bolting together the bellhousing/adapter, and got the flexplate connected to the torque converter. Mounted the battery tray back up and getting ready to get some juice flowin', so I can get this thing spinnin!:cheers:
 
Looking good! Did the stock P/S line thread into the pump?

Do you have better pictures of how the passenger side mount looked when done?
 
Looking good! Did the stock P/S line thread into the pump?

Do you have better pictures of how the passenger side mount looked when done?

Hey Jeremy, I will get some better pics of how it sits in the next couple of days. The stock P/S line seems o thread in, I just put a few twists on it, I think the thread pitch might be different. The routing is not optimal, so I am tiging on a AN fitting to the pressure side, and keep the factory inverted flare in the pump. I'll be able to route the hose low and out of the way underneath the radiator.
 
Hey Jeremy, I will get some better pics of how it sits in the next couple of days. The stock P/S line seems o thread in, I just put a few twists on it, I think the thread pitch might be different. The routing is not optimal, so I am tiging on a AN fitting to the pressure side, and keep the factory inverted flare in the pump. I'll be able to route the hose low and out of the way underneath the radiator.

Sounds good.
 
One more time

So I wasn't feeling like the engine and trans had a good connection. I pulled it yesterday and checked out the torque converter. I ended up smoothing out the pilot as it was a little buggered from when it was removed from the donor truck. I also cleaned up the threads on two of bolt holes. I just didn't have a good feeling deep down and glad I pulled it. Thanks to Dustin for giving me the heads up on how this should all fit together.

Today I finally got the flexplate bolted to the converter, solidly! It was a silent battle! If you ever do it you know what I mean, especially by yourself. Dustin did recommend pulling the trans to bolt everything together, but I figured out a few tricks and managed to get everything lined up without too much hassle. Prybars and punches are your friends!

I then did some "easy" stuff. Connected trans lines and return fuel line. And I finished ordering all the fittings, silicone tubing and air related adapters and found a exhaust flange for my saab exhaust fitting on the turbo.

Just waiting for parts, but got plenty to keep me busy. Starting to lay out the engine bay, planning fuel and oil filter locations as they are both remote mounted. Started planning for airbox mods to use the stock box, just gotta make a plate and tig a 2.5" coupler on to that(have an extra one from the npr). That gets rid of the stock AFM, and I will tig closed all the vacumn holes and what not on the filter can lid.

Oh, I got a box of new seals from Isuzu. New sonic seals for the valve cover and timing gear cover. So now I can dive into the front side and get a new main seal in while access is good. I also ordered new engine isolators, so going to get those in soon too.

Speaking of engine mounts and what not. I have determined that my positioning is just a smidge low, so I am going to make a couple of plates to raise it up 1/2" to 3/4". Just so there is still enough clearance on the fire wall. Also, the 2.5" OME that is on the truck will not cut it, I knew this going in, but was hopeful that the engine bracket I made would make it work. The tie rod is just too close to the oil pan. But now it is the only thing that is a concern as far as clearance. If it was just for the street no worries.

OK, so that's it till the weekend, and hopefully she'll be running by the end of the week, that's the goal!:cheers:
 
Some more progress

Ok, so here is a little update. I put the starter in and started cleaning up some wiring. Put the air cleaner housing and battery back in, and stared at it for a while.
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I am using the stock filter housing but am going to modify it to go to 2.5" outlet. I cut off all the vacumn BS that was on the side, and removed the MAF. Just need to build an adapter and bolt it on. You can also see the location of the fuel filter on the fire wall and oil filter on the quarter panel, utilizing some of the factory holes for the cruise control unit. Drilled a couple new ones and it is securely bolted to the truck.

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Started cleaning up some wiring, There is so much left over!

Mounted the PS reservoir, it fit nicely right above the pump, using one factory bolt and a piece of angle in another factory hole
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I also pulled the timing gear cover and replace the gasket and sonic seal. Replaced the valve cover sonic seal too. I found a little place for the isuzu servos that open and close the shutoff on the injection pump, it fits nicely between the air filter and battery box, just need to pop a couple holes to bolt it in. I started playing with throttle cable placement, and I will need to make a bracket, but not a big deal. Started mocking up heater lines using the hardlines from the 3fe, I should get that ironed out tomorrow, and get some pics.

Overall, everything is coming together nicely. I am waiting on a pile of AN fittings so I can get everything hooked up and ready to start.

I also found an in tank filter from polyperformance that is on the way, tried using the stock one but it is not a solid fit.
 
Air filter set up

Today I modified the stock air filter housing to mate up with turbo. Started by cutting off all the vacuum ports and filling them up with melted metal. These are soldered in and welding them was a bit tricky, so drill em first to get all the brass out, then weld em closed. I used a combination of washers and bolts to close the gap. Then I made a plate to bolt to the filter outlet and welded a 2.5" coupling from the NPR to it for an outlet
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Then started laying out the intake pipe to turbo inlet. It's gonna be a tight squeeze, but I think it will work with some more "clearancing" on some of the pipe. In particular, around the alternator and the valve cover.
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I will grind down the bolt on the valve cover that is sticking up and that will give me clearance enough, maybe have to put some rub protection on the pipe, we will see.

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It should just clear the hood, everything is at the same level as the top of the stock filter housing. If not, I started thinking about moving the intake to the drivers side. it would really simplify things, so that's in my hat also
 
Awesome write up man! I'm still vacillating between a 62 or an 80 but lately have been leaning more towards the 80. Question for u. Are u using the oil pan that came on the motor? I know those are pretty tight for clearance. Have u looked into the 4BD1 pans? That's in my to buy list.
 
Pans

First, Thanks! I haven't looked in to the 4BD1 pans, I didn't know they were much different. I'm going to try a lift first, the tie rod link is really close to the oil pan, close enough that even around town I would be worried about smacking the pan on speed bumps (but I love to hit em with speed). I am riding on a 2.5"ome heavy right now and am torn between slee 4" or 6".

And some updates, I got my box of AN fittings, and man I got some tiggin to do, but good thing my bike builder buddy is a pro! This is a little above my skill level at the present. I've been meaning to learn TIG, but this is no practice project!
 
They are quite a bit different than the 4BD1/2 pans. I'm hoping a 2.5" lift will be plenty with that pan and the same Allmaras kit u have.
 
Interested in seeing and getting some more details on the 4BD1 pan as well. I really like my ride hight for now and would like to stay with the 2.5" till i step up to 37's.
 
Hi Steer

So I just looked at jcardona1's post about a high steer setup. That would solve clearance issues with the isuzu oil pan and probably let you keep the 2.5". My main question is how will it drive? Anyone know or have direct experience with this set-up?
 
So I just looked at jcardona1's post about a high steer setup. That would solve clearance issues with the isuzu oil pan and probably let you keep the 2.5". My main question is how will it drive? Anyone know or have direct experience with this set-up?

I had hi-steer on my SAS 4runner and it drove fine, same as our trucks really. I'm too looking at maybe doing a Y link steering setup with 1 Ton TRE's and a RHD steering arm. Looking like it would be about $400 all in. How much room do you have between the pan and the link right now? Have you removed the springs to check full bump clearance?
 
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That sounds pretty good. I haven't pulled the springs to check the clearance, but i don't think the axle would come close to hitting the bumpstops before it hit the pan. Got a source for a RHD steering arm?
 
That sounds pretty good. I haven't pulled the springs to check the clearance, but i don't think the axle would come close to hitting the bumpstops before it hit the pan. Got a source for a RHD steering arm?

There are a few around, do not have links at the moment though. My thought or plan is when I get the motor mounts tacked in place to get the engine in and pull the springs so I can slowly let it down and see where the clearance issues are. then I can adjust my bump stops as needed. If the steering arm is the first thing to touch then how much more bump will you get removing it. If we only gain 1/2 -3/4 inch by removing it then its maybe cheaper to just drop the bump stops cost benefit wise.

I suspect if we want to keep the 2.5" lift we are going to be dropping the bump stops one way or another. Its just a matter of how much, I would much rather do that than end up with a sky high lift that spoils the rest of the truck (my opinion anyways FWIW).
 
Just a friendly reminder that the detail on this thread is awesome and we are all patiently waiting for more info on your swap. Some of us may be taking notes for there future swap. ;)

Thanks for sayin:) I was stuck in Vegas this past weekend at LIB festival, and I have been working some shifts for the fire department, so I have had zero time in the past week to work on anything. I should be able to spend some time this week on a few items. I'll keep you posted:cheers:
 

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