Is there a 'best' year for FJs? (2 Viewers)

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I currently drive a 1989 FJ62 and I'm thinking of upgrading to the FJ cruiser. I've loved these things since the day the went on the market and always wanted one. I think now is the time.

As much as I'd love to 4x4, I'd primarily use this as a DD with some camping sprinkled in. I don't really see myself doing any major off roading although I do want the capabilities for when the zombie apocalypse happens.

Any suggestions on what year, what packages or anything else I should know?

TIA!
 
Couple of things in the first model year (2007) that make them less desireable: some had bad ring/pinion gears (got fixed by Feb 07), some encountered inner fender rips (in the engine bay).

Probably safe with anything 2008 and up.

Minor changes to engine setup in 2010 (dual VVTi), paper cartridge type oil filter (instead of cannister), windshield washer fluid reservoir in front clip interferes with some aftermarket bumpers. Also the rear axle housing went from a 8.0" ring gear carrier to a 8.2" ring gear carrier.
 
Thanks, BMT. I've been looking for ones under 50k. It's a Toyota and I know they're good for awhile but am I being too picky? My FJ62 has 320k but also some pretty pricey fixes at that old. If I buy a new FJ, I don't want to spend a dime. Any reason I can't go a little higher on mileage?

TIA
 
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The guy who wrote the article is obviously a very picky person.
Yeah, I had the body mount chop done to my vehicle finally a few months back, but my first set of 285x70x17 tires did not hit the body mount until several years later, probably due to how it was last aligned.
I got new tires same size a few months back, then got the chop done.

Here is my take on owning my first year 2007 FJ Cruiser for ten years.
Ten Year Review FJ Cruiser 7-25-2016

Any vehicle I do not care what model or brand it is it is going to have a few quirks, they are not perfect.
 
I'd spring for the newest '08+ you can afford. Ideally low mileage but as long as it has been maintained odds are it's not going to grenade on you.

I did some wheeling in my bone stock rig at Naches yesterday and it performed VERY well. Not to mention I'm not the most skilled wheeler in this forum. Far from it.

If I can drive 3 hours one way, wheel all day, and drive back without damage it will be more than capable for your needs.
 
Thanks for the replies. It sure will be hard to part with my 62 but I'm just sick of having an older vehicle that needs work every year. It always runs but seems like once per year it's in the shop for something. I have a feeling I'll miss the 62 but maybe I'll fall in love with the FJ?
 
Another thing I've been looking for but can't find, is the original MSRP on these by year. I've found quite a few on Carmax that are local or close enough (Chicago) but when comparing the Carmax prices to the appraisal value on Edmunds, they are like $5-$6k higher. They have that stupid no haggle policy which is bad for the buyer, obviously. I wish people would stop buying from them. Pretty soon I can see dealerships catching on to that game. Anyone know how much a fully loaded FJ went for brand new?
 
Anyone know how much a fully loaded FJ went for brand new?

In 2006, they were selling for MSRP. Every one on the dealer lots here were "loaded". Paid $32,900 for mine.
 
I searched 2 months in the SET region (Florida, Georgia, Alabama, North Carolina and South Carolina) for an "unloaded" one and finally found one with just steel wheels, the basic convenience (CQ) package, rear locker, plus factory sliders. I paid just under $28K. I knew several in my area that paid around $35K for a loaded one that first year.
 
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Anyone know how much a fully loaded FJ went for brand new?

Mine was right out of the door at around $40k

2014 Ultimate edition, didn't come with passenger arm rest or trailer hitch receiver. Negotiating was impossible.
 
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Mine out the door back in July of 2006 was right at $30K which included $500 worth of clear film on part of the hood, the mirrors, and other area.
No side airbags, no subwoofer, but pretty much loaded.

Now they want to buy it back from me.
 
So do you guys think $32K for a 2013-2014 fully loaded under 50k miles is fair? Edmunds puts the dealer retail around $25K. I've always trusted Edmunds and have bought many cars using their appraisal values.
 
Couple of things in the first model year (2007) that make them less desireable: some had bad ring/pinion gears (got fixed by Feb 07), some encountered inner fender rips (in the engine bay).

Probably safe with anything 2008 and up.

Minor changes to engine setup in 2010 (dual VVTi), paper cartridge type oil filter (instead of cannister), windshield washer fluid reservoir in front clip interferes with some aftermarket bumpers. Also the rear axle housing went from a 8.0" ring gear carrier to a 8.2" ring gear carrier.
The 2007s I'm finding are MUCH cheaper than 2008 and beyond. Is there any way to know if it's a bad 2007 or not? Prices are below $20k for most 2007s I'm seeing. Seems like a risk worth taking for that much of a reduced price.
 
Look under the hood at the inner fender wells near the firewall. Some were bulging inward or even cracking where the "crumple zone" undulations were formed in the sheet metal. Also look at the sticker in the drivers door frame for the date along the top edge of the sticker. You want a born-on-date of 03/07 or later - those models after February 2007 will have the properly heat-treated ring/pinion gears.

Also, people in the first year complained (a lot) about blind spots or poor visibility out the windows. I suggest you adjust your side mirrors properly to address that issue (sarcasm).
 
Also, people in the first year complained (a lot) about blind spots or poor visibility out the windows. I suggest you adjust your side mirrors properly to address that issue (sarcasm).
Exactly, I have no blind spot issues with my FJ.
 
Look under the hood at the inner fender wells near the firewall. Some were bulging inward or even cracking where the "crumple zone" undulations were formed in the sheet metal. Also look at the sticker in the drivers door frame for the date along the top edge of the sticker. You want a born-on-date of 03/07 or later - those models after February 2007 will have the properly heat-treated ring/pinion gears.

Also, people in the first year complained (a lot) about blind spots or poor visibility out the windows. I suggest you adjust your side mirrors properly to address that issue (sarcasm).
Good tips, thanks!

Yeah, luckily I learned how to use my mirrors when I was 16.
 
... I have a feeling I'll miss the 62 but maybe I'll fall in love with the FJ?

Yes to both (first hand experience). I miss the "classic car/truck" aspects of my FJ62. But my FJ Cruiser gives lots of love in different ways. If I had a really large garage I'd have both -- plus my other vehicles too, of course. But life forces you to make choices and I don't regret moving from the FJ62 to the FJ Cruiser.
 

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