Intro Xml325 38.5's with no lift 80 (1 Viewer)

[Whileemptyheadsdream]

A Tubbed 80s This Is Awsum...! I bet nobody sells a pair of Tubs for our trucks. Be safe and have fun with your Rig..!

 

[Lcshack]

Do the fronts rub anywhere on the inside? I also second the 5.29's, or at least 4.88's

At full turn right, I will run the down pipe and slight rub on control arm. Full turn left slight rub on control arm.
I am going to rework the down tube to clear and I may just deal with the control arm rub at full turn. I know wheel spacers would be a solution and give a wider footprint(stability) but I'm not sure about using them, are they really safe?

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[Lcshack]

My very humble recommendation, install a good aftermarket temp gauge for your tranny .. and keep those pics coming !

I definitely want to increase the tranny cooling and get eyes on the temp. Until I do that I will refrain from running it in OD as well.

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[Lcshack]

How much did those tires cost?

I've seen place selling 80% take offs for $300 each. I did alot of reading up on that and it either so so good or they were bad. The caution statement I read from a review seemed to sum it up: "If you buy 4 tires and only expect re-treadable carcasses then you'll be fine. If you get 1 out of 4 you can run as is then you're lucky. " I bought mine off of an individual and paid $500 ea. Then another $350 to have them mounted and balanced with beads. These were brand new tires with stickers and tits still all over the tread. I read sometime ago the tires are $1100 each new.
my review on the tires thus far-
As you start to roll (on asphalt) there is a slight rumble/shake from the large block tread, at about 10 mph it goes away and gradually turns into a "soft" hum as speed increases. Nothing like buckshots for example!
I have only had these in mud/water in a field behind me. It climbs the wash ridden hill with great ease and the treads clean out very easy.
I do plan to groove the large lugs to encourage flex and to increase biting edges.
These should last for ever as they are rated for a little over 5k pounds each. And although a not so flexy side wall i can laugh at would be punctered side wall objects on the trail.
So far I love them.

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[Lcshack]

This is exactly what @Delancy describes as the perfect 80 trail rig (plus 30mm coil spacers). Non of the bad side-affects of lifted radius arm geometry, and low COG = win!

I'd put some 5.29's and a Marlin low-gear in though for sure.

That's cool, I'm not crazy then!?? That was my reasoning on doing it.
I've actually had this truck, as it is now(yeah with holes instead of wheel wells), off camber and sideways on a steep little hill and I am certain if I had the "recommend lift" for 37s I would have rolled, no doubt.

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[Lcshack]

Several have recommended dropping to 4.88s or even 5.29s....

My thoughts were:
It seems to do fine with the 4.11s now.
And gears actually become weaker because of less material in the actual tooth as you go lower(higher numeric value) correct?

I assume that in addition to better crawl ratios that a lower gear set would better protect the tranny from the tire mass stress and temp?

I think I'd want my axles to be the weak link( easier fix) not the ring gear and but definitely not the tranny.


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[Heckraiser]

Sure looks cool!

I will say that it's a little funny that one of the stated reasons for keeping the suspension stock is for reliability, yet running 39's on a stock drivetrain. Those tires are going to impact your reliability probably a lot more than a lift kit would. Not knocking your approach, it's still badass, just the funny mental gymnastics we do to justify busting out the sawzall and grinder.

 

[ginericLC]

Fine is a relative term. I'm running 315s with stock gears and the earliest I can hit overdrive on the interstate is 78mph. It usually isn't until 82mph. 36.8" is quite a bit bigger so I guess your definition of fine is using a 4 speed transmission as a 3 speed. You will have to regear if you want to have any hopes of hitting overdrive. Those tires are very heavy too. So it just isn't a matter of diameter sucking energy it is the rotating mass. I'm not understanding why someone would choose such a large tire for overlanding. You are going to need a huge fuel tank. I'm guessing you will be in the single digits for fuel mileage.

I admire your want to keep it stock. However with your tire choice you are going to need to upgrade springs, axles, and drop to lower gears. Especially after you start loading it up with gear. Making a rig reliable with that size tire does not mean stock.

Gears do become weaker as they get lower. However, the gears won't be your weak link. Your weak link will be birfs and axle shafts especially if you have elockers in the rear. The front ring gear is prone to breaking when in reverse and bound up. However, I would not say this is a common break. And I think your odds of breaking a ring and pinion, even a 5.29 is less than breaking an axle shaft (if stock). I don't worry about ring and pinions and have 80s with 5.29s, 4.88s, and 4.56s. Knuckles seems to break with added stress (35" tires seem to be threshold for axles and knuckles after that break can and will occur). Your tranny will be working overtime without a gear change and your torque converter will never lock up. That will generate a lot of heat and over time heat destroys trannys. However I wouldn't be worried about that as much as your highway driveability is going to suck. Another option would be to get an Australian gear set for the transfer case with an under drive low range and a lower low range. Then you could leave the diffs alone. This might be a better solution for your application.

Spacers would help in the front and probably on your rear frame as well. You will rub on the rear frame as well. However, that is not what I would personally do. I'd switch to a rim with 3.5" backspacing. And since you seem like you want field serviceable I'd go with a steel wheel. This will widen you us 2" and it will help remedy your steering issues and the rear frame rub. The downside is you will stick out your wheel wells more and so you will have mud sprayed down the side of your truck.

 

[Lcshack]

Sure looks cool!

I will say that it's a little funny that one of the stated reasons for keeping the suspension stock is for reliability, yet running 39's on a stock drivetrain. Those tires are going to impact your reliability probably a lot more than a lift kit would. Not knocking your approach, it's still badass, just the funny mental gymnastics we do to justify busting out the sawzall and grinder.

I DO like cutting stuff, I must admit.

Sent from my SM-G900R7

 

[Lcshack]

Fine is a relative term. I'm running 315s with stock gears and the earliest I can hit overdrive on the interstate is 78mph. It usually isn't until 82mph. 36.8" is quite a bit bigger so I guess your definition of fine is using a 4 speed transmission as a 3 speed. You will have to regear if you want to have any hopes of hitting overdrive. Those tires are very heavy too. So it just isn't a matter of diameter sucking energy it is the rotating mass. I'm not understanding why someone would choose such a large tire for overlanding. You are going to need a huge fuel tank. I'm guessing you will be in the single digits for fuel mileage.

I admire your want to keep it stock. However with your tire choice you are going to need to upgrade springs, axles, and drop to lower gears. Especially after you start loading it up with gear. Making a rig reliable with that size tire does not mean stock.

Gears do become weaker as they get lower. However, the gears won't be your weak link. Your weak link will be birfs and axle shafts especially if you have elockers in the rear. The front ring gear is prone to breaking when in reverse and bound up. However, I would not say this is a common break. And I think your odds of breaking a ring and pinion, even a 5.29 is less than breaking an axle shaft (if stock). I don't worry about ring and pinions and have 80s with 5.29s, 4.88s, and 4.56s. Knuckles seems to break with added stress (35" tires seem to be threshold for axles and knuckles after that break can and will occur). Your tranny will be working overtime without a gear change and your torque converter will never lock up. That will generate a lot of heat and over time heat destroys trannys. However I wouldn't be worried about that as much as your highway driveability is going to suck. Another option would be to get an Australian gear set for the transfer case with an under drive low range and a lower low range. Then you could leave the diffs alone. This might be a better solution for your application.

Spacers would help in the front and probably on your rear frame as well. You will rub on the rear frame as well. However, that is not what I would personally do. I'd switch to a rim with 3.5" backspacing. And since you seem like you want field serviceable I'd go with a steel wheel. This will widen you us 2" and it will help remedy your steering issues and the rear frame rub. The downside is you will stick out your wheel wells more and so you will have mud sprayed down the side of your truck.

I wonder if previous owner changed gear sets because this thing has no problem running 80 down the hwy even with a long up hill to my shop. I need to look at rpms at 80 and compare with someone or lift and count rotations. I assumed they are still stock 4.11s and I was expecting the need to change but the get up and go is still there. Not to mention my speedo should be reading slower(right?), at 80 I may well be 85 er 90.

I mentioned earlier, I may need to change spring rate due to added gear. Is there more to stock suspension that would be of concern with the 38s?

I do like the idea of steel wheels!
As for the rear wheels, with a large hole to see, the tire did not rub the frame at full stuff. The front will be different for sure if turning at stuffed.

I have avoided OD so far but do you think added cooling with a trans temp gauge would be sufficient for the trans if equipped with 4.11s or 4.88s?

My thoughts were to stay with stock axles as long as I can, again easier fix just carry spares a light foot and winch. If I upgrade then my weak link becomes something else. Opinions please?

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[mjosoba]

Fine is a relative term. I'm running 315s with stock gears and the earliest I can hit overdrive on the interstate is 78mph. It usually isn't until 82mph. 36.8" is quite a bit bigger so I guess your definition of fine is using a 4 speed transmission as a 3 speed. You will have to regear if you want to have any hopes of hitting overdrive. Those tires are very heavy too. So it just isn't a matter of diameter sucking energy it is the rotating mass. I'm not understanding why someone would choose such a large tire for overlanding. You are going to need a huge fuel tank. I'm guessing you will be in the single digits for fuel mileage.

I admire your want to keep it stock. However with your tire choice you are going to need to upgrade springs, axles, and drop to lower gears. Especially after you start loading it up with gear. Making a rig reliable with that size tire does not mean stock.

Gears do become weaker as they get lower. However, the gears won't be your weak link. Your weak link will be birfs and axle shafts especially if you have elockers in the rear. The front ring gear is prone to breaking when in reverse and bound up. However, I would not say this is a common break. And I think your odds of breaking a ring and pinion, even a 5.29 is less than breaking an axle shaft (if stock). I don't worry about ring and pinions and have 80s with 5.29s, 4.88s, and 4.56s. Knuckles seems to break with added stress (35" tires seem to be threshold for axles and knuckles after that break can and will occur). Your tranny will be working overtime without a gear change and your torque converter will never lock up. That will generate a lot of heat and over time heat destroys trannys. However I wouldn't be worried about that as much as your highway driveability is going to suck. Another option would be to get an Australian gear set for the transfer case with an under drive low range and a lower low range. Then you could leave the diffs alone. This might be a better solution for your application.

Spacers would help in the front and probably on your rear frame as well. You will rub on the rear frame as well. However, that is not what I would personally do. I'd switch to a rim with 3.5" backspacing. And since you seem like you want field serviceable I'd go with a steel wheel. This will widen you us 2" and it will help remedy your steering issues and the rear frame rub. The downside is you will stick out your wheel wells more and so you will have mud sprayed down the side of your truck.

Just curious about your statement regarding 35's and stock gearing? Do you not allow it to go into OD until those speeds? Or does it just not do it? Mine will settle in easily no prob around 45 or so. I haven't corrected my speedo so that's not exact. I usually leave OD off for anything under 45 and kick it back on 45 and up.

 

[702FZJ80]

What's the braking like in an emergency situation?

 

[Lcshack]

Brakes grab like crazy good before mods and appear to be just as good with the xmls ( no panic testing yet) and I recently did the abs delete. So I'll be bleeding and testing in a safe environment when tubs are finished.

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[702FZJ80]

Nice

 

[JeepinPete]

I'm running 365/75r16s, 37.5" in height. I too kept the suspension stock, used a body lift instead and trimmed where necessary. Stock gears. It is sluggish off the line, but I have no issue with power or overdrive. That being said, it will jump into 3rd with any incline. Can't report long term, as it is coming up on one year since the change.

 

[Lcshack]

I'm running 365/75r16s, 37.5" in height. I too kept the suspension stock, used a body lift instead and trimmed where necessary. Stock gears. It is sluggish off the line, but I have no issue with power or overdrive. That being said, it will jump into 3rd with any incline. Can't report long term, as it is coming up on one year since the change.

What is your driving style offroad, gentle on the go pedal, moderate or heavy?
Issues breaking stock axles? Birf's? Any regret going 37's?

I know there are others running the xmls, maybe they will chime in.....

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[canman]

That's cool, I'm not crazy then!?? That was my reasoning on doing it.
I've actually had this truck, as it is now(yeah with holes instead of wheel wells), off camber and sideways on a steep little hill and I am certain if I had the "recommend lift" for 37s I would have rolled, no doubt.

Sent from my SM-G900R7

The weight of those tires will help keep your CoG low enough.

 

[JeepinPete]

I try to drive smooth offroad. I'm not one to pick the hardest line, I like to find the easy line through the tough spots that no one else sees. But if I need to hammer it, I hammer it. Nothing broken yet, and I doubt I will. I also suspect the BFGs I have are a bit lighter than the xmls.

 

[Funner]

Well there's no going back now so I will keep my opinion about your tire choice for over landing to myself
It looks like you have some good fab skills, I look forward to seeing how this comes out. Good luck

Where in the south are you from?

 

[Lcshack]

Well there's no going back now so I will keep my opinion about your tire choice for over landing to myself
It looks like you have some good fab skills, I look forward to seeing how this comes out. Good luck

Where in the south are you from?

Mississippi

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