Important Tie Rod / Steering Replacement WARNING (1 Viewer)

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Jan 27, 2008
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A huge thanks to Rich and the guys at Cruiser Corps for helping me out and his diligence in finding my mistakes. I have exchanged emails and phone calls with him the last three days throughout the day trying to figure out what went wrong and feel he has gone out of his way to make sure everything is taken care of the right way.

I purchased this Tie Rod Set from Cruiser Corps and was pleased with both price and quality. I would recommend the product, and would highly recommend the company. I made a mistake installing the new tie rods about a month ago and would hate to see anyone else do the same thing!

When installing the TRE on the passenger side, make sure to lock the set screw in with the provided cotter pin. I did not realize there was a need for a cotter pin there, and did not see anything in my FSM about one, so I did not. After about 1500-2000 miles, it vibrated loose and I lost my steering while returning from a fishing trip in the back country. If you have recently, or not so recently, changed your TREs, please check this one to make sure you don't suddenly lose steering like I did. Drive safely!

I've included pictures and my original email to Rich below for more details on what happened in case you care (I sent the email after he asked me to write out the details and include pictures). Again, the Cruiser Corps staff has been extremely responsive and helpful - I emphasize this because I am someone who cares about who I'm buying from almost as much as what I'm buying. They've cared well.



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"This happened coming back form a fishing trip, I was driving on forest service roads on the Hungry Horse Reservoir in Montana with snow and small potholes. My max speed was about 15-20 mph going downhill. There were cliffs on the one side, snow in areas, and atvs, so I'd be surprised if I was even going that fast. I drive the area pretty regularly and it's rare to go above 20 because of how windy it is.

When I hit the transition to pavement I felt a jolt in the steering wheel and it started to have an odd vibration. I slowed way down to a crawl and drove another mile to a safe area and pulled over into a gravel parking lot. When I hit the gravel I lost all steering and found the broken TRE.

I bought the set from you in December (see forwarded shipping info below) and installed it in March once the snow was out of our driveway. That TRE was torqued to 67 ft-lb in accordance with the attached FSM (84-90). I think I've done about 2 000 miles on the car since then - I drive it four days a week, usually 55-65 mph on the local highways and then every other week on forest service roads."

-Jon
 
Both Toyota Factory Service Manuals 80'-later and 84'-90' do show a cotter pin that has to be removed and installed when working on the steering linkage.What kind of FSM do you have?
 
I have the 84-90. I see the cotter pins on the castle/burger king nuts, but not on the end of that TRE to keep the set screw in place..
Steering Linkage.jpg
 
And I need to go check mine. Thanks for the post.

UPDATE: So I just did mine like 6 months ago and the cotter pins are in the adjustment screw, but I don't remember putting them in there. Is it possible they came that way? I believe I got my set from Cruiser Outfitters.

Also look closer at your diagram they are on there.
 
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Got mine from Georg at Valley Hybrids.They came with the pin and it got replaced after I adjusted the screw.
 
I just did mine a couple weeks ago and the pin was already in place for both ends of the relay rod. 555 brand from Cruiser Outfitters as in reevesci's post.

On the FSM diagram above, the lower left exploded view of the tie rod side of the relay rod shows a cotter pin. But it doesn't really spell out anything about putting it in, because it only comes out for an overhaul. It shows the pitman arm side (lower right on page) pin as a "non-reusable part" because that's the one people remove to tighten up the screw and then replace.

Did you have a cotter pin left over after the install? The photo of the kit you got shows 4 smaller pins (pitman arm, knuckle arms, tie/relay connection) and 2 larger ones (relay rod ends).
 
glad it's not totaled and everyone is ok. good for warning. Keep Cruisin.
 
Working this now, glad you are okay. I have the same kit from CC.

On a related topic, what method did you use to get the old tie rod ends out of the tie rods? I was able to get 1/4 out of the tie rod. I soaked them in penetrate, and will try again tomorrow.

I know heat helps on rusty bolts, I don't have the proper equipment to heat up the tie rod end. Just wanted to see how hard this was for you?

Glad you are okay!

~Mark
 
So you're talking about the cotter pin that holds the drag link in ?

Also, good to check play when installing new TREs as they don't always come properly adjusted.

Drag Link Socket:

23539d1276039076-cant-remove-screws-holding-apron-saddle-drag-link-socket.jpg
 
Jesus! Didn't the old steering have a cotter pin in there when you took it off?
 
I've never seen a castle nut that didn't use a corter pin.
See the FSM exerpt on post #3 above, look closely at the part names called out on the "Pitman Arm side" (These parts are normally covered by the rubber dust seal).
Edited for clarity: It's not a castle-nutted connection that failed. The adjustable female cups that capture {called ball stud seat in the above fsm} the ball joint loosened out of spec due to no cotter pin and popped off the ball {called link joint knob}
 
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Working this now, glad you are okay. I have the same kit from CC.

On a related topic, what method did you use to get the old tie rod ends out of the tie rods? I was able to get 1/4 out of the tie rod. I soaked them in penetrate, and will try again tomorrow.

I know heat helps on rusty bolts, I don't have the proper equipment to heat up the tie rod end. Just wanted to see how hard this was for you?

Glad you are okay!

~Mark
I tried PB blaster and a hammer/ wrench for a couple days. Couldn't get it to budge. Finally went to Home Depot and ponied up for a map torch. Heated each end up for a couple of minutes and they came right off with a big crescent wrench.
 
I tried PB blaster and a hammer/ wrench for a couple days. Couldn't get it to budge. Finally went to Home Depot and ponied up for a map torch. Heated each end up for a couple of minutes and they came right off with a big crescent wrench.
Before you do battle with the next rusted fastener, mix up a small batch of 50/50 Acetone and ATF. Douse the offending rusted bastard and wait. This shadetree penetrating oil concoction our grandparents likely used outperforms WD-40, PB Blaster, & Kroil. Make it a small batch, as the acetone plays hell on plastic and rubber seals found on typical spray bottles.
 
I must point out that it appears to me that nothing "broke" or failed here. The part was installed incorrectly. To remove the old part, the cotter pin must be removed in order to loosen the slotted end cap. Installation is the reverse of removal, which includes installing the cotter pin.
Fortunately, this was a cheap lesson in that no one was hurt. But this incident also highlights that working on vehicles, especially on steering and driveline components is serious work and there can be catastrophic consequences if not done correctly.
 
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Got mine apart and back together today. Soaked in PB blaster for a day, then used 2 24" pipe wrenches to break them loose.

~Mark
 
Good info to know and took some courage to post up the warning but taken as well intentioned. I'm not picking on anyone here or anywhere else and I've done my share of stupid stuff. But it is worth noting that brakes and steering items are critical, I've always cautioned folks to be careful when working on these things and its clearly not something to learn how to do over the INTERNET. Glad no-one was hurt.

Good lesson learned, and good safety item to check out.

I've got a Dumb-A$$ thing I need to clean up on my 60, related to the fuel system.... bottom line we all make mistakes, but brakes and steering is one of those things that can really bite you in the rear and do so very quickly.
 
Thanks for posting this as a reminder - as Stump said, always worth a double-triple check on any steering-related bits after servicing them. I had a factory tie rod end pop off (it showed no play, but had 250K miles on the part) so I know what this feels like.
 
Getting an alignment done today at a shop, looking forward to having my 60 drive straight and less like a boat.

with regards to the cotter pin in the relay rod end, you don't need to remove the cotter pin referenced here (not the one on the castle nut) to remove the part, therefore potentially causing a missed step during install.

Cheers!
Mark
 
with regards to the cotter pin in the relay rod end, you don't need to remove the cotter pin referenced here (not the one on the castle nut) to remove the part, therefore potentially causing a missed step during install.

Cheers!
Mark

I'm not sure what specific process you are addressing when stating that you don't need to remove the cotter pin. If you are talking about when doing an alignment, then I agree. If, however you are replacing that TRE, then yes you need to remove the pin to loosen the cap.
 

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