ih8mud inspired build (1 Viewer)

[Dagha Boy]

You're right. It's easier to find a president without a brain than a battery charger without one. I have a nice big heavy old charger that was used to load truck batteries. When I did the bigger parts like the front bib, radiator surround etc I just packed some bricks on the floor and then put a double layer of heavy duty plastic sheeting used under concrete floors over that and then poured the mix in that. You can;t do that if you got kids around.

What I'm planning to do is to use 2x4s and shutter board to make a tank and then line it with the same plastic. Once the cleaning's done I can just disassemble it and store it away till next time. Most of the stuff will fit nicely into a plastic 200 litre drum.

The article I read that impressed me most was written by a guy who does marine salvage work. He has done complete marine engines and gearboxes that had been under water for decades and got them turning and restoreable again without taking them apart first. Just some time and electrolysis. He recommends a battery in the system between the charger and the anode/cathode.

I also want to make a plating set-up. My new mate, Kobus, who is a professional restorer has one that he made himself and does all his own stuff in-house instead of sending off to Johannesburg 600km away. Only the chroming goes out. He says it's easy to make and do. Old dogs learning new tricks....

 

[Dagha Boy]

DUNLOP TYRES.

I have not forgotten about the tyres, but I am having problems with DUNLOP SA who are not responding to my enquiry. I will phone them tomorrow and give feed back.

 

[cult45]

The other method is to use salt and vinegar. 1.9L of vinegar and 1/3 cup of salt - costs about $3.00 AUD and will free up gear that's been out in the weather for years. Love that stuff!

 

[Dagha Boy]

The other method is to use salt and vinegar. 1.9L of vinegar and 1/3 cup of salt - costs about $3.00 AUD and will free up gear that's been out in the weather for years. Love that stuff!

I've heard of the method but haven't tried it myself yet. Always such a pleasure to get something working again.

Some good news. I gave all the rear axle stuff a good cleanup and took them to Koekies, the hydraulics guy, who has lathes etc etc and has taken quite an interest in the Dagha Boy. The shafts are not a problem, he's going to turn them down and then put a sleeve on. We had a good look at the tube ends, and he's going to cut those off at the outside of the bearing where the seal sits against the bearing and then turn and weld on a whole new end section to house the seal. This will entail a sleeve going over the existing axle tube, so the centre hole of the brake backing disc will have to be enlarged a little to be able to slide over the new end. The problem seems to be solved without great expense.

ALL CLEANED UP AND READY FOR SOME KOEKIES MAGIC.

The rebuilt spring packs were delivered to the pub yesterday afternoon, together with a complete set of bushes at no extra charge. Really nice of them considering the free delivery as well.

"NEW" SPRING PACKS.

Last week the leopard took out a yearling zebra. Big commotion. But, nature taking care of things as the little guy was struggling in the dry conditions and was looking pretty miserable. Yesterday afternoon there was again a great commotion amongst the zebras, but they were in some rally thick thorn bush so I could not get close enough to see what it was all about.

Early this morning the group led by a stallion we've named Chuck Norris (for the huge round house kicks he sends flying at the others when he thinks they're going to eat his share of the pellets or to get them away from the mineral lick) arrived with a brand new foal. A really nice strong and healthy little critter. So that explained what all the commotion was about. Mother's name is Marilyn after Marilyn Monroe because she is very shapely.

NEW ZEBRA FOAL

AND ANOTHER ONE.

All of that on Friday the thirteenth...

 

[78fj40mg]

All of that on Friday the thirteenth...

Sounds like another normal day in the bush, unlike other Friday the thirteenth events around the world.

The spring packs look great! This is not a rhetorical question but are they OME springs?
I'm curious to see how the rear axle will be transformed by Koekies, is that his given name?

 

[Dagha Boy]

Ja, they are a set of original springs left for repairs but never collected. They all have new main springs but the rest is original just retentioned. Mine were beyond repair. Koekies is a nickname from his surname; Koekemoer. I will post pictures of the repair. The bearing will still ride on the original tube which is fine and the seal will sit in a new sleeve which will be inside a sleeve that goes over the tube that the bearing is in. It looks like the OE set up is almost similar in that the piece that the seal sits in is pressed over the main tube. Quite a flimsey set up compared to what he wants to do.

RUSTED FLANGE (SEAL HOUSING)

It comes off right at the bearing which is still in there. The sort of flange outside of the bearing which carries the seal with a bit extra sticking out is a pressed on piece.

THREE PIECE END.

The three separate components making up the end are fairly easy to see above.

The front bit will come right off.

The middle part will be turned down all the way to the thick plate and then a new flange turned up and slipped over and shrunk onto the axle tube. The brake backing plate will have to have its centre enlarged to fit over the new outer sleeve. I think it will be slightly stronger than the original, but that doesn't really matter as it carries no weight.

It seems to be a hell of a lot safer here in the bush than in so-called civilization.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I like the springs... can't wait to see how the repairs go on those axles.

in the country, you get the benefit of seeing your enemy come from quite a distance... I work in the city, live on the fringe, will retire to a ranch (I was raised on one)... but as they say, the way to make a small fortune in ranching is to start with a large one.

 

[Dagha Boy]

The springs are good. I got lucky on those. Looks like I might get lucky on the axles too...

Ja, in the bush you just have to realize that there is no sentiment and it's everybody for himself. A hyena, lion, leopard etc look at you with the same dispassion as you look at a hamburger... As long as you understand that, you're OK. But this mindless slaughter from your own kind for no reason at any time in any place allows no precautions. Sometimes I think the Preppers may be on to something...

We had a big storm just after sunset yesterday. About an inch of rain in half an hour, which ran straight thru the carport. I've got some mud and water to clean out this morning but the rain is so welcome for once I'm not complaining. Cold and windy and looks like more rain. I just hope the zebra foals will be OK. Another one was born yesterday morning.

 

[Dagha Boy]

While we were having our rain storm last night, the town and agricultural area got hit by a massive hail storm. The word is that as much as 90% of the Avocado and Mango crop was destroyed within an hour. Lots of damaged cars with broken windscreens etc all over the place. The hail stones were bigger than tennis balls. The guy who did my auto electrical stuff had major damage. His house has (had) a roof of fibre cement sheets. The hail went through that and through the gypsum ceiling as well. Bad news all round.

But for me today has been a happy day. Firstly, the temp never went above 70. After weeks of 100+ it is heaven. I decided it was the ideal day to strip the front axle and see what all is wrong with it, It had to be worse than the back axle.

Well. Happy day! There is very little if anything wrong with it!!!! Yeeeeeeehah!!!

It appears that it was recently worked on. The brake stuff is mostly new and the seals weren't leaking. The CV joints are perfect. On the one side it appears to have a new wheel hub. Nice nice.

NEWISH BRAKE PARTS SOME MAY BE REUSABLE.

The one thing that rattled me a bit was that 90% of the bolts were just finger tight and had clearly not been tightened with a wrench, let alone a torque wrench. Those that required a wrench to loosen were only just tightened. Weird.

Although there was evidence of nice clean fresh grease, there was very little of it. The shafts and CV joints were covered in dirty brownish oil which I can only guess was left on them from when the seals had leaked previously.

JUST A TOUCH OF NEW GREASE OVER HARD OLD GREASE.

Looking at the inside of the steering knuckle, one can clearly see that the old grease was not removed and all that was done was about a half inch of the new grease was put over that... or maybe was put in the CVs which then flung it out to the side. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it, one must pack the grease in everywhere when reassembling and fill all of it with grease to ensure that everything stays in the grease??

One other thing I noticed for the first time is that the free wheel hubs are not a matching pair. One is Asco (which I presume is OEM) and the other is Yijia. Both are in good shape, but I'm going to have to try to get a pair together.

WHERE DID THIS COME FROM?

Maybe I just paint them the same....??

Luck was really on my side today. Even the "special tool" for the bearing adjusting nuts was not a problem. I had one. It is what we use on the elements of our hot water geysers. Perfect fit. Something for other Saffers to keep in mind - you've probably got one already.

GEYSER ELEMENT TOOL.

Everything looks good as far as I can see, but tomorrow I will tackle the nasty job of cleaning up everything and inspecting it properly. I've got a feeling the bearings and seals are new but that I should replace them anyway while it is apart and just for peace of mind. The pinion seal is leaking, so that will have to be done.

DOES ONE RE USE THE CONE WASHERS??

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

we've had some wild weather, but nothing compared to yours - thoughts and prayers to those affected.

you can reuse the cone washers as long as they look okay.

as for the grease, I've never done it that way - but I've also never been instructed one way or the other. My opinion is there has to be plenty of grease in the CV joint, but I've yet to take (or break) one apart that was completely filled (to the housing) with grease.

if he doesn't pipe in - send Mace a PM.

 

[Weber Sarge]

The knuckle should be filled about half way up and the cv or birfield joint as it's known should be packed internally after cleaning . It can be disassembled if you don't have a solvent washer to clean it out of old grease . Definitely pack both upper and lower trunion or king pin bearings as those take a lot of abuse . While it's apart , take a close look at the races on the trunion bearings - they take a beating on rough roads and can get grooves worn across the races , if they are - replace them . Just make certain to keep track of the top and bottom shims between the bearing caps (king pins) and the knuckle housing . If I remember right , high temp grease for all those parts .
Good time to inspect the wheel bearings and repack those with grease as well . The whole thing is a messy job but worth keeping dirt and water out of there and keep the differential oil in it's place .

Hope no one got hurt - hail bigger than tennis balls can kill .

Sarge

 

[Dagha Boy]

we've had some wild weather, but nothing compared to yours - thoughts and prayers to those affected.

you can reuse the cone washers as long as they look okay.

as for the grease, I've never done it that way - but I've also never been instructed one way or the other. My opinion is there has to be plenty of grease in the CV joint, but I've yet to take (or break) one apart that was completely filled (to the housing) with grease.

if he doesn't pipe in - send Mace a PM.

I think I will just replace them to be on the safe side. I don't think one can over grease in this instance.

The knuckle should be filled about half way up and the cv or birfield joint as it's known should be packed internally after cleaning . It can be disassembled if you don't have a solvent washer to clean it out of old grease . Definitely pack both upper and lower trunion or king pin bearings as those take a lot of abuse . While it's apart , take a close look at the races on the trunion bearings - they take a beating on rough roads and can get grooves worn across the races , if they are - replace them . Just make certain to keep track of the top and bottom shims between the bearing caps (king pins) and the knuckle housing . If I remember right , high temp grease for all those parts .
Good time to inspect the wheel bearings and repack those with grease as well . The whole thing is a messy job but worth keeping dirt and water out of there and keep the differential oil in it's place .

Hope no one got hurt - hail bigger than tennis balls can kill .

Sarge

I'm going to take my time and get everything nice and clean. Petrol and an engine cleaning gun I'm afraid. (Listen for the bang) I've decided to replace everything that can be replaced. I've actually got rebuild kits but they're in my garage in Plett. I bought them from CCOT a few years ago when I had the HJ47. Nobody down there has a key to get in and send them to me so I'll just have to source from Steve locally.

I read up in my Haynes manual last night. They are fairly vague about greasing process. Things like "a good quality grease" and "lubricate liberally with general purpose grease." For the CV they just say, " lubricate all parts with general purpose grease" and "the steering knuckle should be filled 3/4 with grease..." They do not specify exactly what grease is best. Will do a bit of research. It looks like about 5kg will be needed?

I've heard of the trunion races getting grooves. They have 3 upper shims on the left hand side and 4 upper shims on the right hand side. Nothing at the bottom on both sides. how is the shimming determined? Surely it changes when new races and bearings are fitted??

I'm going to need to get torque settings as well for everything. Haynes gives only very few of these. I need to get a torque wrench, again mine is in Plett.

It is nice having the axle "on the bench" rather than in the vehicle as I think it is going to make cleaning and re assembly much easier.

I haven't heard of any fatalities or injuries, which must be a bit of a miracle when you see what it did to iron roofs. It looks like somebody sat on the roof with a hammer for days knocking dents into them. Maybe it was lucky it happened after dark when everybody was inside.

 

[baas]

Hey boet.....looking good! I'm enjoying reading through your build - I have a t-shirt that says "'n boer maak 'n plan" - always amazed at the tenacity and ingenuity! Even inspired me to get off my butt and go buy a bottle of klippies... although I'm not sure "Klippies Premium" is really really klippies?
Sorry to hear about the hail...my family have been farming pine, tobacco, mangoes and cotton around the Nelspruit area for yonks, I know how devastating the weather can be.... Thanks for the updates!

 

[Dagha Boy]

Hey boet.....looking good! I'm enjoying reading through your build - I have a t-shirt that says "'n boer maak 'n plan" - always amazed at the tenacity and ingenuity! Even inspired me to get off my butt and go buy a bottle of klippies... although I'm not sure "Klippies Premium" is really really klippies?
Sorry to hear about the hail...my family have been farming pine, tobacco, mangoes and cotton around the Nelspruit area for yonks, I know how devastating the weather can be.... Thanks for the updates!

Howziiit

"...get off my butt and go buy a bottle of klippies..." Now there's a plan! (You obviously haven't lost the "make-a-plan" touch...)

Klippies have a very nice distillery tour and I always take visitors there. According to them, ordinary Klippies is specifically blended to be mixed with Coke. The Premium, Gold, Black Gold, blends on the other hand are blended to be drunk neat, on the rocks or with water. When you do the tasting it is very noticeable that ordinary Klippies tastes kak without a mixer. If memory does not fail too badly, you should taste apricots and peaches in the Premium.

While I'm at it, another big thank you for your thread on speedo repair. It helped me immeasurably.

Ja, the Dagha Boy is coming on nicely. Just waiting for some spares from Nelspruit then the assembly can commence.

 

[peteinjp]

I'm telling you- drop the haynes and download the manual here. It has all the info you need concerning the types of grease etc:

For Sale: - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

 

[Dagha Boy]

The front axle has really been a pleasant surprise. The only problem seems to be the one "spindle" (Not too sure what it is called.) is heavily scored.

SLIGHT WEAR...

It will have to be replaced along with all bearings and seals.

Everything has been cleaned, de rusted and repainted ready for assembly.

The trunion races had more corrugations worn in them than our roads have. Both sides had studs missing so the bearings were full of muck and grit and seized solid.

GROOVY

I think I'll go to Nelspruit tomorrow to get the spares

 

[2fpower]

you said.....One other thing I noticed for the first time is that the free wheel hubs are not a matching pair. One is Asco (which I presume is OEM) and the other is Yijia. Both are in good shape, but I'm going to have to try to get a pair together.

At least in the US, my understanding was that the locking hubs were a dealer installed item, so there was no OEM really. I have seen many brands on rigs in the US and at least two of mine did not have matching pairs.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Yep , that bolt on spindle is junk - replacement is a good idea . The number of shims determines how the axle shaft is centered into that wheel bearing spindle , changing bearings has such a small impact on that setting it's not a problem , just keep track of where they go . The factory service manual specifies the exact type of grease for the birfield or cv joint as well as the wheel bearings and that is important . You also need to check the spindle's inside bronze bushings for excess wear , they carry that cv joint at the end and keep it centered and they can be a pain to change out if badly worn . It is a messy job , lots of rags or newspaper and just time is all it takes . Follow that factory service manual and it will last a long time once again .

Sarge

 

[Dagha Boy]

I'm telling you- drop the haynes and download the manual here. It has all the info you need concerning the types of grease etc:

For Sale: - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

Sorry. Should have done it when you told me the first time... I have now done so and will, as Trollhole suggests, buy a membership. I have been feeling guilty about that as it is. The Haynes is a piece of...

THANKS TROLLHOLE.

you said.....One other thing I noticed for the first time is that the free wheel hubs are not a matching pair. One is Asco (which I presume is OEM) and the other is Yijia. Both are in good shape, but I'm going to have to try to get a pair together.

At least in the US, my understanding was that the locking hubs were a dealer installed item, so there was no OEM really. I have seen many brands on rigs in the US and at least two of mine did not have matching pairs.

Interesting. They are both in very good condition, and unless you put them next to each other it is not possible to tell the difference. I think I'll just paint them identically and stick them back on. Good enough.

Yep , that bolt on spindle is junk - replacement is a good idea . The number of shims determines how the axle shaft is centered into that wheel bearing spindle , changing bearings has such a small impact on that setting it's not a problem , just keep track of where they go . The factory service manual specifies the exact type of grease for the birfield or cv joint as well as the wheel bearings and that is important . You also need to check the spindle's inside bronze bushings for excess wear , they carry that cv joint at the end and keep it centered and they can be a pain to change out if badly worn . It is a messy job , lots of rags or newspaper and just time is all it takes . Follow that factory service manual and it will last a long time once again .

Sarge

Now that I have followed peteinjpn's advice I've got all the specs I need. The bushings are still good on the other one and I presume the new one will come with a bushing already fitted??

The cleaning was indeed messy. That's all behind me and everything has been repainted and is ready for assembly. At least working with the new grease won't be so bad.

How does one go about removing the pinion seals without disassembling the whole thing?

No trip to Nelspruit today, it's going to have to be next week. In the mean time I'll pull apart the wheel cylinders and see what if anything is salvageable amongst that stuff.

 

[peteinjp]

Based on the rest of the bearing surfaces you've shown us you may need to replace the pinion bearings anyway. But either way it's common here to mark the relationship of the pinion and shaft so as to return to the correct spec- or at least close enough- when re- installing the pinion flange after changing that seal.

Pete