Ignition switch? (1 Viewer)

[splitshot]

Anyone experience this before?

When the switch is rotated to engage the starter, it occationally looses voltage to the coil/fuel soleniod, then starts just when I let the spring return to the run detent.
Battery and load test pan out fine.

 

[Living in the Past]

Worn out switch would be my guess. Not sure the switch can be rebuild. My 68 Had a replacement switch when I bought it in 74. I lock smith made me keys for the drivers'door and back hatch since I got no keys for them with the purchase. The original bad ignition was in the glove. I was able to swith the tumbler so one key worked everything. I know you don't run a hard top but even a good switch minus the key might work. Or just pick up a cheap aftermarket switch at your local auto store. Very common to find this in older cruisers.

 

[splitshot]

Worn out switch would be my guess. Not sure the switch can be rebuild. My 68 Had a replacement switch when I bought it in 74. I lock smith made me keys for the drivers'door and back hatch since I got no keys for them with the purchase. The original bad ignition was in the glove. I was able to swith the tumbler so one key worked everything. I know you don't run a hard top but even a good switch minus the key might work. Or just pick up a cheap aftermarket switch at your local auto store. Very common to find this in older cruisers.

Unless there is a resistor between the switch and coil, I am only getting 10.8 volts there. With a starter load, I can see it droping below enough for the fuel solenoid. I.E; I should have 12v at the coil right?

 

[splitshot]

Worn out switch would be my guess. Not sure the switch can be rebuild. My 68 Had a replacement switch when I bought it in 74. I lock smith made me keys for the drivers'door and back hatch since I got no keys for them with the purchase. The original bad ignition was in the glove. I was able to swith the tumbler so one key worked everything. I know you don't run a hard top but even a good switch minus the key might work. Or just pick up a cheap aftermarket switch at your local auto store. Very common to find this in older cruisers.

Yep, believe the contacts are almost shot. Blasted it out with CRC and alot of black burnt soot came running out. Starts 3 out of 5 times now vs 1 in 5.

Kurt has one on the shelf and also said some can be dismantled and the contacts cleaned up, unfortunately this one is sealed.

Thanks for the .02

P.S, there are quite a few threads on this subject with all kinds of advice.

 

[Stepmurr]

Another spot to check is the fuse holders. I had a similar problem with a very weak starter. I was getting a little over 10 volts when cranking - wire brushed all the fuse holders and it worked much better.

I have a second starter switch under the hood and it gave full voltage to the solenoid at the time 'cause it isn't fused. Sometimes I had to raise the hood anduse that switch to start in cold weather.

 

[splitshot]

Another spot to check is the fuse holders. I had a similar problem with a very weak starter. I was getting a little over 10 volts when cranking - wire brushed all the fuse holders and it worked much better.

I have a second starter switch under the hood and it gave full voltage to the solenoid at the time 'cause it isn't fused. Sometimes I had to raise the hood anduse that switch to start in cold weather.

I had to replace fuse block a while back, it was beyond cleaning (the old one actually came out in pieces). A remote starter switch in on my next tool list, if anything just for bumping the starter when I need to adjust the points.

Steve, when and where did you pick up the 40? I was sorry I missed Chiva. John

 

[Stepmurr]

Steve, when and where did you pick up the 40? I was sorry I missed Chiva. John

This is the 1971 FJ40 I grew up driving.

It was bought in Okinawa by an Air Force pilot who brought it to the US in a cargo plane when he returned from Vietnam.

My brother bought it in 1973 in Virginia. A few years ago he gave it to me and I've been working on it ever since.

These are pics of my brother in the FJ40 and me in my Dad's FJ55 in 1974.

 

[Rocky_LC]

Steve -

Nice glasses, dude!

John -

In the old trucks, with the ballast resistors, you are supposed to get full voltage to the coil from the starter (there is a little tab on the starter that runs to the coil (+)), and reduced voltage (through the ballast resistor) when the switch is in the run position.

Is it possible that the wire from the starter, connections, or solenoid is bad?

Maybe you have found the problem in the switch.

Chuck

PS> I have a sealed switch body (I think it is from a '55) that I got when I did my Power Steering conversion. Let me know if you want it. I'll trade you for a 6 pack.

 

[splitshot]

This is the 1971 FJ40 I grew up driving.

It was bought in Okinawa by an Air Force pilot who brought it to the US in a cargo plane when he returned from Vietnam.

My brother bought it in 1973 in Virginia. A few years ago he gave it to me and I've been working on it ever since.

These are pics of my brother in the FJ40 and me in my Dad's FJ55 in 1974.

That is extra special with the history behind it. Cool that it is still in the family (kinda hope mine does the same). You may have told me, but I didn't realize you grew up with cruisers, we (I), need to get out more often.

Steve -

Nice glasses, dude!

John -

In the old trucks, with the ballast resistors, you are supposed to get full voltage to the coil from the starter (there is a little tab on the starter that runs to the coil (+)), and reduced voltage (through the ballast resistor) when the switch is in the run position.

Is it possible that the wire from the starter, connections, or solenoid is bad?

Maybe you have found the problem in the switch.

Chuck

PS> I have a sealed switch body (I think it is from a '55) that I got when I did my Power Steering conversion. Let me know if you want it. I'll trade you for a 6 pack.

View attachment 801783

Hey Chuck, mine is pre ballast resistor. Super simple, just three leads; Battery, starter, and ignition. Suspect the switch was getting fried over time trying to crank that old worn out F starter.

Cruiser Outfitters had a new one on the shelf and it's on it's way. How about a 6 pack just for the offer?
Thanks Bud.

 

[murf]

Steve, Im digging on the old pics and that you even still have them around!

Is the 55 still around or did that move on from the family?

 

[Stepmurr]

Steve, Im digging on the old pics and that you even still have them around!

Is the 55 still around or did that move on from the family?

At the risk of further hijacking John's ignition switch problem - my dad gave the 55 to my brother, and eventually it was sold to some kids from Las Vegas, NM. Apparently they cut the roof off it so they could have an easier time poaching from the road.

It is sitting in a field outside Las Vegas, but I have not seen it when passing through. Probably not salvageable at this point

 

[splitshot]

At the risk of further hijacking John's ignition switch problem - my dad gave the 55 to my brother, and eventually it was sold to some kids from Las Vegas, NM. Apparently they cut the roof off it so they could have an easier time poaching from the road.

It is sitting in a field outside Las Vegas, but I have not seen it when passing through. Probably not salvageable at this point

Probably not a sight you would want to see.
Switch problem solved, hijack away.

 

[Rocky_LC]

John -

I'll take you up on the 6 pack... Since I didn't have to do anything, it can be Bud or PBR, not the Sierra Nevada I was hoping to get!

 

[splitshot]

John -

I'll take you up on the 6 pack... Since I didn't have to do anything, it can be Bud or PBR, not the Sierra Nevada I was hoping to get!

If it's Torpedo or Pale Ale, would you be cool with a 5 pack?

 

[Rocky_LC]

I'm not picky when it comes to free beer!

 

[Living in the Past]

Switch problem solved, hijack away.

This is the 1971 FJ40 I grew up driving.

It was bought in Okinawa by an Air Force pilot who brought it to the US in a cargo plane when he returned from Vietnam.

Interesting on the 71. I would have thought a cruiser bought in Okinawa would have been RHD. Anything different on this 40 from 40 imported to the US? The cruisers that show up here from the Japanese local market are all RHD and had different interiors.

John what is the story on the valve cover? Looks after market but also has Toyota cast in the top.

 

[Stepmurr]

Interesting on the 71. I would have thought a cruiser bought in Okinawa would have been RHD. Anything different on this 40 from 40 imported to the US? The cruisers that show up here from the Japanese local market are all RHD and had different interiors.

Lets see . . .

ball & claw axle shafts - fine spline in diff, coarse splines at the hub

axle housing was milled for birfield shaft seals but had the normal bushings for the ball & claws

chrome center piece on hood is apparently odd

My brother has had to get various replacement parts from 69, 70, & 71 as it seems Okinawa assembled this from parts they had laying around the factory. I had to get three different Napa brake cylinder rebuild kits (70 & 71) to get the right rubbers for the front & rear cylinders.

Those are the main things I noticed, but I am not an expert on what is normal for a USA model. Somebody else who has worked on lots of cruisers may notice more differences. I have only worked on two (the two in the pics above ).

 

[splitshot]

John what is the story on the valve cover? Looks after market but also has Toyota cast in the top.

It is an aftermarket I picked up from SOR years ago, Marv must have had Clifford Performance run a limited batch as I have not seen them since. I like the cast aluminum idea.

 

[splitshot]

Update: Starts fine when cold not so after being brought up to operational temp. I have noticed the idle solenoid gets almost hot rather quickly from a cold start, normal?

This is the path I'm betting on next..

 

[splitshot]

For the record, A new battery seems to be the cure all, even if the the 15yo Blue top checks out as marginal.