- Thread starter
- #21
I don't recall the post-alignment numbers. I will see if I can find them.
Icon install - 2005 LX470 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hayes
- Start date
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I don't recall the post-alignment numbers. I will see if I can find them.
- Thread starter
- #22
I'm working on getting a pair of Slinky coils through Redline Land Cruisers to address this. Should know eta this week.
My fallback plan is exactly what you've done.
My fallback plan is exactly what you've done.
So you are supposed to mount the reservoir on the outside of the frame - you should need a heat shield. I didn't see if you posted but is there a reason you put it on the inside? Mine are mounted on the outside on both sides.
- Thread starter
- #24
I didn't like the location outside the frame.
I had mounted them outside the frame towards the back. It looked great! the only problem was once I went wheeling and was going to do some real flexing, it was too late when I noticed the sway bar was pulling on the lines and damaged my rear shocks. 
. They are at icon being rebuilt or replaced right now..... it going to cost me somewhere between $3-500..... A lesson well learned...... I am currently struggling with the front mounting system. I have the resi mounted the frame, horizontally. Again, very visual pleasing, however when the wheel is fully turned and compressed, the tire rubs the resi. I think I will need to mount it vertically.
. They are at icon being rebuilt or replaced right now..... it going to cost me somewhere between $3-500..... A lesson well learned...... I am currently struggling with the front mounting system. I have the resi mounted the frame, horizontally. Again, very visual pleasing, however when the wheel is fully turned and compressed, the tire rubs the resi. I think I will need to mount it vertically.
- Thread starter
- #26
I had mounted them outside the frame towards the back. It looked great! the only problem was once I went wheeling and was going to do some real flexing, it was too late when I noticed the sway bar was pulling on the lines and damaged my rear shocks.
The Icon supplied brackets for the front reservoirs (vertical) are working well on my truck.
Sorry to hear about your rears.
Hayes - What was the total cost for the Icon's and UCA's? Been contemplating upgrading from my OME's to either Icon's or King's.
Thanks
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #28
In the neighborhood of $3200 for the stage 3 adjustable shocks on all four corners and the upper control arms.
Talk to Carl @just differentials for the actual price. He's great to work with and is always happy to discuss details.
I'm loving the Icons. I really appreciated my Icons last weekend in Moab. Plush high speed control and nice cushy compliance on the rocks.
Talk to Carl @just differentials for the actual price. He's great to work with and is always happy to discuss details.
I'm loving the Icons. I really appreciated my Icons last weekend in Moab. Plush high speed control and nice cushy compliance on the rocks.
Great, thanks. Roughly the same as King's and believe quality, reliability, etc. is about the same as well. I think you said that the stage 3's are adjustable? Did you make any adjustments for your Moab trip and did you notice any difference?
- Thread starter
- #30
Compression damping is adjustable on the stage 3's. 1 through 10 settings, soft to firm. Factory default equivalent to their non adjustables is 4. For daily driving I've settled on 5 up front and 4 in the rear. That's how I left it for this last Moab trip. It worked great. I imagine that running a heavier load (say full expo setup), one could benefit from running a higher setting. Also, if you were really getting after the high speed whoops you'd want to turn it up.
Mount them vertically like Icon designed them (hose stays tucked) You'll have to finagle the plastic splash guard to allow fitment. I just ran the hose clams behind the res and out of sight, and pushed the res into the plastic guard...
I do like the fact that the stage 3's are adjustable. About 1/2 the time while offroad, I tow a modified Aliner trailer with Deaver Springs/suspension, which is about 1,500 lbs. Already sent a note to Just Differentials and received a response back from "Drew" as apparently Carl isn't available for awhile. Waiting to hear back on price after answering a few of his questions.
The icon stage 3 shocks are well worth it. If you can afford it, do it! A byproduct of the shocks I did not think about was the extended travel. With my Old man EMU shocks, I had my front torsion bars jacked to make my truck level and there wasn't any down travel. It was kind of a rough ride. As soon as I installed my icons, the ride improved dramatically, but I also wasn't maxing out the down travel of my front suspension anymore.
Still have the $13k unspent from the sale of my beloved 80 series earlier this year. Regarding the torsion bars, I had the same problem and recently adjusted them with a buddy of mine to lower the front end a bit as the ride was INSANELY hard. A little better but still hard, partly due to the heavy OME springs in the rear. I'm glad to hear that the Icon's made a different on the ride, and of course with that price, they'd better.
After your icon install, did you adjust your T-bars?
- Thread starter
- #36
Certainly the angle on the front arms is a big variable in respect to ride quality, but I'm coming to the conclusion that a number of factors are implicated:
1. Front control arm angle - steeper angle (higher lift) puts proportionally less force along the arc of travel, and more force directly into the chassis. There are better words for this, but my physics vocabulary is failing me tonight. Mitigated by less lift.
2. Front antisway bar angle - same as above. Mitigated by extended links.
3. Shocks - OME Sports are kind of harsh. Mitigated by pricey Icon love.
4. Rear coils - The rear plays more of a role in seat-of-the-pants ride quality than I thought it would. Mitigated by dual rate coils like the Autocraft Slinkys.
5. Tires and tire pressure - Don't run more pressure than you need.
1. Front control arm angle - steeper angle (higher lift) puts proportionally less force along the arc of travel, and more force directly into the chassis. There are better words for this, but my physics vocabulary is failing me tonight. Mitigated by less lift.
2. Front antisway bar angle - same as above. Mitigated by extended links.
3. Shocks - OME Sports are kind of harsh. Mitigated by pricey Icon love.
4. Rear coils - The rear plays more of a role in seat-of-the-pants ride quality than I thought it would. Mitigated by dual rate coils like the Autocraft Slinkys.
5. Tires and tire pressure - Don't run more pressure than you need.
Still have the $13k unspent from the sale of my beloved 80 series earlier this year. Regarding the torsion bars, I had the same problem and recently adjusted them with a buddy of mine to lower the front end a bit as the ride was INSANELY hard. A little better but still hard, partly due to the heavy OME springs in the rear. I'm glad to hear that the Icon's made a different on the ride, and of course with that price, they'd better.
- Thread starter
- #37
I did not. I had planned on lowering the front a little because of the issues I was having with limited down travel. But the icons fixed that issue for me.
Slinkys: very interested in these. Reminds me of the parabolic springs for the 60's, but with better vendor support
Question: can one run airbags with the slinkys?
Question: can one run airbags with the slinkys?
- Thread starter
- #40
Slinkys: very interested in these. Reminds me of the parabolic springs for the 60's, but with better vendor support
Question: can one run airbags with the slinkys?
Dunno.
@AutoCraft Aus will have to answer that one.
