I want to lower the CG of my SOA wagon. Ideas? (1 Viewer)

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ntsqd said:
Must be a different spring, 5" lift is taller than these springs were. I'd say 4" max and probably more like 3"
Click to expand...

That's with 2" over shackles. Rag top 40. Could be 4" Application charts show
GM 1/2" tons, K series and suburbans. Came with the footnote "prerunner"
not for suitable for load carrying.
 
Randy88FJ62 said:
Lets hypothetically say that I end up getting 63" chevy springs.
What mods are needed?
1. hole saw frame in two spots and weld in tube
2. new shackle length?
3. new rear shocks? I need at least one new one anyway as it's leaking and probably dead.
4. New U-bolts

Droop and compression should be close to what I'm getting now, especially after frenching the rear hangers. No brake line mods should be needed. No driveshaft mods should be needed as the axle location will remain the same.
Click to expand...


A different spring width affects several parts, some that you can make work and some you may want to replace: Front Spring hanger (will need to move this forward anyways), spring perch, Ubolt plate, Ubolts.

I run a tube through the frame but have boxed in the rear section of my frame so this wasn't an issue. If yours is not boxed the tube will need additional support. I am also running longer shackles (6" plus if I remember right, it's in my thread somewhere) with a deeper angle. Flex's great but a little too soft for all the things I want my rig to do so I am going to relocate the tube (like Kavik did years ago I think where the bottom of the tube insert is flush with the bottom of the frame meaning the frame has been notched but the location of the tube is in the bottom of the frame and not in the middle), run shorter shackles (4.5-5" eye to eye), and reduce my shackle angle a little to allow a little more spring rate.

I have been very pleased with my Chevy 63's overall, with their carrying capacity, ride, and offroad flex. If I were asked if I'd do that mod again my answer would be yes.
 
Thanks for the input boots.
 
I will also agree with boots on the 63" springs.
I love the ride they give and the flex that is available from them.
Fairly easy and inexpensive mod too.
 
Just to give an idea of how long these suckers are:

IMG_0146.jpg


That's a 33-10.50 tire under a std bed '84 Mini.
 
I was in the junkyard last weekend and there were many chevy trucks and suburbans. Some had 53" and some 63". Of the 63" length some were three leaf and others more around 5 leafs.

I am assuming all the cruiser guys get the big 5 leaf packs as shown in the picture above?
 
I run a 4 leaf plus overload so 5 physical leaves. I wouldn't go any lighter than that for the heavy FJ60 rear end. Those 53 inchers could be made to work up front.
 
Boots,
I've been perusing your build thread. What are your thoughts on the location of the axle with the 63" springs? You mentioned that you moved yours back because it's easier to trim the rear quarter panels. How much did you move it and have you had any clearance issues?
 
With my intention to fit large tires in those wheel wells it is easier to trim the back of the well. To get clearance at the front of the well with bigger tires the axle needed to be moved back so I would not rub. Moving the axle back has some minor benefits for climbing and coupled with a rear quarter trim and tucked bumper gave me less overhang. I never have measured my actual wheelbase (also moved the front axle forward) but I believe I moved the rear axle about 2-3 inches back. The only rear clearance issue I kind of had was the 38s close to rubbing on the body mount when stuffing. I trimmed that mount to give me additional clearance. After adjusting the bumpstops those wide 38s didn't rub and anything.
 
@boots4
I'm back on this project in preparation for summer and I wanted to pick your brain again. Do I really need to remove my spring perches and put new ones on to a different angle?

Or can I get away with the same ones?

My goal is to put 63's frenched in as far as I can reasilitically (2 inches). Not sure on the front.

Has anyone used non-stock longer springs up front? I might as well go longer springs since I'm going to French them in 2"....

I'm eying the Ruff Stuff kit items to use for the rear. Front is still open.
 
Randy88FJ62 said:
@boots4
I'm back on this project in preparation for summer and I wanted to pick your brain again. Do I really need to remove my spring perches and put new ones on to a different angle?

Or can I get away with the same ones?

My goal is to put 63's frenched in as far as I can reasilitically (2 inches). Not sure on the front.

Has anyone used non-stock longer springs up front? I might as well go longer springs since I'm going to French them in 2"....

I'm eying the Ruff Stuff kit items to use for the rear. Front is still open.
Click to expand...
What about going sua in the front and soa in the rear? It is possible to get good travel with sua.
 
Frank,
While Coils look amazing that is not going to happen over a weekend at my friend's garage whereas a leaf sprung mod would. Coils are like V8's, everyone wants them but no one can do them quick. It would take time, $$$$, and planning.

White Stripe,
If I was starting from scratch I'd probably stay SUA and just trim the s*** out of the body and be done. Since I am already sprung over I'd like to keep the brake lines, driveshaft length, U-Bolt plates, and other items the same.

Hence I'm looking for Boots4, Kavik, or Cruisercrew to assist with some more details.
 
Randy88FJ62 said:
@boots4
I'm back on this project in preparation for summer and I wanted to pick your brain again. Do I really need to remove my spring perches and put new ones on to a different angle?

Or can I get away with the same ones?

My goal is to put 63's frenched in as far as I can reasilitically (2 inches). Not sure on the front.

Has anyone used non-stock longer springs up front? I might as well go longer springs since I'm going to French them in 2"....

I'm eying the Ruff Stuff kit items to use for the rear. Front is still open.
Click to expand...

You'll probably have to refresh my memory of your set up but some quick answers:

If you are already SOA in the rear and you can place the new springs in the same ballpark as the ones you are removing you could probably get away with keeping your axle side spring perches. If you need to change the pinion angle due to more lift or axle placement now would be the time to do it with the spring swap. With all your ducks lined up like knowing how to set a pinion angle, it should only add 2 hours to the build for grinding, adjusting, and welding on new perches. If you are going to move the rear axle rear-ward will your current driveshaft work?

I'm using much longer springs up front than the factory and kept them long when I did my re-work up front when I put in the D60. I think 53's" will be easier to package.

Ruffstuff has good stuff. My only bad part was rear brake brackets for my 14b that failed.
 
I did a quick sketch in AutoCAD and raising my driveline 2 inches at the rear axle would only change the angle pointing at the rear output of the tcase by 5°. That doesn't seem enough to warrant new perches or a new driveshaft.

I don't plan on moving the axle forward or back. I assume I can keep the stock location and just raise the entire axle assembly 2 inches up into the frame / truck.

For the front I assume the same. Is it worth hitting the junkyard to pull longer springs to install when lowering the front?

53" suburban springs?
F150 springs?

Suburban springs may be easiest as the Ruffstuff kit would work with that and keep bushings front and rear identical.
 
Randy88FJ62 said:
It would take time, $$$$, and planning.
Click to expand...

Time & planning you had....
10.19.12.png

Can be done on the cheap............

Hell you can throw a V8 in there Im sure plenty of support could be had between a few of us..............

Just saying............ :flipoff2:
 
Besides lowering springs 2" I'm also looking at other ways to improve the stability of my truck on highway and wheeling off camber.

Wheel spacers came to mind. I'm eyeing 2" spacers on all 4 corners to eliminate rubbing of front tires on springs when turning and rubbing of tires on rear when fully stuffed.

I assume more articulation with longer springs will make these a necessity anyways.

I like my AL Alloy 16" rims so I plan on sticking with the same wheels for now.

Thoughts on 2" or 3" spacers? I assume they are fine...

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sx_as?q...n:15706591&vehicle=1988-76-1017-------------1
 
I ran 1.5" spidertrax spacers on the front for a year. No problems at all. Never came loose. Get them from a reputable company and your experience will be the same. 3" spacers are a bit big though.
 
Why does Trailgear for instance make 3" spacers if they are inappropriate for our trucks?

I may settle in the middle at 2" spacers.
 
Look at the comparison spidertracks did between their spacers and the china (trail gear) ones. Thatll answer some questions.

One ton the bitch and youll be stable and wont need spacers.

D
 
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