I can't believe that there aren't any threads about these supposed rust prohibitors (1 Viewer)

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I heard about this tech like 20 years ago and the concept made sense to me at the time but my experience with it started and died with that single conversation. I managed to come across one of these sites by accident and thought hmmm...let me see what they think about this possible unicorn / snake oil here on mud. I didn't find a single thread! With all of the rust discussions here I was shocked. Any hoo....any opinions? And if this is something that is great well than woohoo :cheers: I finally contributed something to this amazing place but if it's crap....sorry to have wasted all your time :slap:

Couplertec

Electronic Rust Prevention, Rust Proofing, Rubber Paint, Lanolin, Rubber Rust Prevention - ERPS

Edit...I may have misspelled the words in the search box!
 
This should work fine as long as you have metal tires on a metal road. But unless your car is earth grounded, it won't work. This system works fine for boats, but not for cars. You need an electrolyte and a different metal for your sacrificial anode.

Like most of us, your tires are probably made of rubber, and it is, therefore, a huge scam.

I checked couplertec's site and tried to figure out how they claim it works - as far as I can tell, they just made up some stuff about ions and claim their process "holds the electrons on". If they're trying to claim that their system charges the body of the vehicle to passivate the surface, then good luck doing that on 12v (not possible). Neither proposed method by which these things work is going to stop rust.

Save your money and spray up some linseed oil. Just another dishonest scam to try and take advantage of honest gearheads.
 
HEHE! Thanks for the information everyone. I was lucky to pick up a cruiser without any corrosion but they use mag chloride here in the rockies and I actually considered trying something like this out.
 
Yes, it is a scam, but wished it did work. Ih8rust.
 
If there is any rust under your truck and it is minor, treat it with Ospho and then fluid film(lanolin). Those electronic gadgets and sacrificial anodes, etc are a waste and a scam on a car.
 
^^ agree with @Golgo13 on the Ospho. Phosphoric acid products will deal with LIGHT rust as well as leave an iron phosphate protective coatings (which should be then coated with an O2 barrier i.e. paint).

I don't believe the electronic rust prevention gigs work either, but there is a degree of conductivity designed into tires, mainly to help dissipate large amounts of static electricity built up from pushing through the air. I remember in the 90's a car company (Honda I think) having issues because people kept getting zapped when they grabbed the door handle. The problem was too much insulating property
 
Rust is a phenomena that occurs in the north, especially in the spring and summer, or so I've been told.
 
Have leaky seals and gaskets. Automatic rust inhibitor.
 
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Obviously salt is a catalyst to the oxidation process, but I've often wondered what other things might be at play to accelerate rust. In the Michigan, we use salt (very bad), it is generally humid (bad), but also, most of the soils are on the acidic side so much so that lots of farm operations use lime to neutralize their soil. The soil in western states is alkaline (I think). I think soil acidity/alkalinity are bigger players than people think where acidic soils are very detrimental to steel. My long, boring, drawn out point is that if you keep your vehicle washed to keep salt off AND use some sort of high ph product in the wash, it will help prevent rusting.
 
What's "rust"?


Yeah, I've 'heard' of it before....but never actually seen any on either of my vehicles.

My 80 series is soon to be 20 years old, the LX 18 years old. Maybe I just need to be more patient. ;)
 
For electric rust prevention to work you need continuous electrical loop.......unless you always drive in at lease 2 feet of water it's not gonna happen. However in the rare case you do always drive and park in deep water all you need to do is screw on a few pieces of zinc around frame and axle which is dirt cheap at any marine store or online so that's a total scam.
 

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