Builds 1HZ-T HZJ78 All-Climate Expo Build (5 Viewers)

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I'm no expert about Cruisers. However, When I built my CRX, long ago, I decided on a "V" configuration with my radiator and intercooler. I saw the best results with thermal control during long track days. For my 01' S4 I upgraded the factory side mount ICs to bigger, all aluminum side mounts I know a lot of people have had great results from radiator/IC combo setups. (picture attached). This may prompt you to make new purchases, and I know the fear of non-OEM parts.

in any case...

Things to consider, in my opinion: 1- Air Flow will always take the path of least resistance. 2- Maximize the surface cooling area. 3- Minimize heat conduction from the engine bay.

So for your situation:

Use effective cowls to contain and direct the flow of air through the whole system.

Push the radiator/intercooler/condenser as far forward as possible. I would also minimize the space between the rad, IC, and con. This reduces turbulence in the system which reduces pockets for air to stagnate between the layers. Some people will argue that you should have about a 1-inch gap between each layer in order to divorce heat transfer (e.g. heat soaked radiator causing heat soak in your IC). I personally don't by into that logic.

lastly, when selecting a fan, ensure that you calculate the additional surface are created by the IC and con.

If you can, limit the amount the surfaces the air has to pass through. right now you have three, uneven, layers. try to stack the condenser over/under/side-by-side the IC. basically reduce the width of the whole thing and make airflow as even as possible across the entire system.

Also get creative. I had a friend who mounted a huge radiator under his car. It was very efficient, but he took the time to scallop a piece of sheet metal to induce fresh air/remove hot air. This concept is not really good for a truck pluggin up a mountain pass at a slow speed compared to a racecar with a relatively constant flow of cool air. But I mention it as an example of outside-the-box thinking. do with this nugget as you please.

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Hey awesome reply @divemedic

That's helped me indeed, and yes the one time i discussed this with a mechanic he tried to convince me bigger space was better... Like you i worry about turbulence and path of least resistance, nice to hear I'm not out on a far tangent!

Just got the AC as flush as i can, will leave the cardboard as the only gap, now to see how flush i can get the intercooler, going to need some more body sawing for the tubes i think
 
Hey awesome reply @divemedic
That's helped me indeed, and yes the one time i discussed this with a mechanic he tried to convince me bigger space was better... Like you I worry about turbulence and path of least resistance, nice to hear I'm not out on a far tangent!

My pleasure.

I know many people who argue that logic. It does have much merit, in my opinion, for this application. If you look at any custom or manufactured combo set-up, the spacing is nominal. I would prefer to have a 1-2 inch gap for an oil/trans cooler. This is because of their considerably smaller size.

You will see more benefit from judicious use of sheet metal to create shrouds and appropriately sized fans. Just look at any race-prepped vehicle for evidence.

Again, I'm no physicist, but when I see most everyone doing the same thing I tend to follow suit.
 
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I had never thought of adding an electric fan, my expectation is that no element of the build will fail in muddy or watery offroad conditions, and their is very little room anyway in front of a pointy 70, but i do plan on making a new winch bumper so it will be cooling friendly and will heed your advice on shrouding.

Is there such a thing as a water/mud proof fan only 1" thick? Thats about all the room i have without breaking my golden rule of not moving the factory grill
 
I had never thought of adding an electric fan, my expectation is that no element of the build will fail in muddy or watery offroad conditions... water/mud proof fan only 1" thick?

At 1-inch thickness, I don't know. Right now, I'm thinking I will be wiring up my own electric fan set-up. I'll likely use 2, 12v fans wired in series. Its easy enough to do marine-grade wiring and sealing (google). A kill switch for your fan is a must in my opinion. The very last thing I want to happen is for my fan to turn on, or be running, while trying to do a water-crossing. not that I fear the electrical stuff will short, but I'd be worried the fan spinning, and hitting the water would cause the fan blades to shatter and/or splinter. Then id be SOL for cooling and may even cause damage (read crack) to the radiator or associated hoses. All that being said, I don't have a whole lot of actual experience with off-roading, accept in the "desert". This situation may not be very realistic. Other, more experienced members should chime in if warranted.
 
At 1-inch thickness, I don't know. Right now, I'm thinking I will be wiring up my own electric fan set-up. I'll likely use 2, 12v fans wired in series. Its easy enough to do marine-grade wiring and sealing (google). A kill switch for your fan is a must in my opinion. The very last thing I want to happen is for my fan to turn on, or be running, while trying to do a water-crossing. not that I fear the electrical stuff will short, but I'd be worried the fan spinning, and hitting the water would cause the fan blades to shatter and/or splinter. Then id be SOL for cooling and may even cause damage (read crack) to the radiator or associated hoses. All that being said, I don't have a whole lot of actual experience with off-roading, accept in the "desert". This situation may not be very realistic. Other, more experienced members should chime in if warranted.
Yeah you would have a switch, wiring not a problem, I'd be more worried about them not starting again after a soaking/hosing down, but i have no idea about whether you can get IP68 rated fans, and what happens when you run them with an uneven coating of thick mud on the blades.
 
Yeah you would have a switch, wiring not a problem, I'd be more worried about them not starting again after a soaking/hosing down, but i have no idea about whether you can get IP68 rated fans, and what happens when you run them with an uneven coating of thick mud on the blades.
nothing a bit of alcohol in a spray bottle wont solve :D

as far as the think mud, I'd imagine I'd have bigger problems then my fan :D
 
Hey, I'm just installing new factory fuel filter mounts: filter with heater housing in place of the single filter on the firewall, and whole new prefilter assembly beside the air filter, will have prefilter and two main filters in total... Just wondering if someone can confirm that the arrow on the prefilter casing is indicating that this is the inlet pipe, pretty sure but you never know

Also, anyone know if i can just splice together the cables from the (now two) filter warning cables to feed them into the single plug for that, so that water build up in either would trigger the dash light? Would be awesome if it were that simple

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Got the ac condensor fitted, used the rubbish alu bracketing just to bridge the gap from the old mounts, with go to a shop to do the proper mounts, i don't have a press to make the reinforcement lines. Worked out well, used existing holes. Now just to modify the piping and i can stop cooking myself in the car... Its a damn hot summer here this year and i don't even have a floor mat above the gearbox
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Hey, does anyone know if you can get these airbox clips or anyone got one spare? I can't find a part number for them and have always been missing one
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I couldn'tinstall the 270amp alternator after all, wasn't bolt-on as advertised, although it may have been made for a 1HZ with a much bigger alternator i suspect. Had to grind the hell out of it just for a pressure fit and then the bolts didn't even line up so i gave up. I am thinking i need the adjuster bracket from a 80 or 100amp model that is probably larger in diameter and thus higher @beno do you know if they vary?

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Here's the original 55amp baby back in
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Just kidding about the jdm black... A rattle can of bumper n trim paint. Changing all my blue trim to black in readiness for the eventual brown paint job

Finally got around to installing these side pockets, to my delight the door panels already had the holes for them so didn't even have to mark them up
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I couldn'tinstall the 270amp alternator after all, wasn't bolt-on as advertised, although it may have been made for a 1HZ with a much bigger alternator i suspect. Had to grind the hell out of it just for a pressure fit and then the bolts didn't even line up so i gave up. I am thinking i need the adjuster bracket from a 80 or 100amp model that is probably larger in diameter and thus higher @beno do you know if they vary?
i followed up on the fan belt adjuster codes and they are all the same from every single 1HZ cruiser regardless of alternator size, so it's the manufacturers bad... I will have to fab a new fan belt adjuster and remove the water pump case bolts to fit... I hope i don't foul the gasket in the process. Nothings ever simple! And all that grinding was in vain
 
Man talk about lego for big boys, if only it came with instructions, just spent a few hours crosschecking part numbers , parts and diagrams to work out what goes where. Thanks to @beno for helping source al the bibs and bobs from around the globe.

Fitting will be interesting, i think once i have the position marked ill leave the brackets bolted in and present it with double sided tape on the brackets rhen unscrew the fender to leave the brackets so i know where to drill. No plan B as of yet if that doesn't work.
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Hey this might be of help to all of maybe 3 people in the universe, but for what its worth....

When ordering my fenders, there was alot of rivets involved, i didn't want to pay $200 for $2 worth of simple rivets obviously , and it appeared some were used instead of bolts as well so i ordered one of every code for a couple of bucks each just to see what size they are.
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