very nice job,now I know where the oil leaks on mine.Thank you for the very nice step by step post w/pic
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Are you all saying that what you thought was an oil pump gasket leak, was actually the dizzy o-ring? I may need to check a little closer.
Are you all saying that what you thought was an oil pump gasket leak, was actually the dizzy o-ring? I may need to check a little closer.
That is correct!
Same, both were (oil pump still is) a problem for me as well, but the dist o-ring was probably 90% of the leaking.
jditom, if that is bad to you then by god don't look at mine
There was a layer of dirt and oil probably 1/8" thick on everything below the dizzy all the way to the bottom of the motor
Someone posted in here about turning the crank the wrong way. When would that happen? When you tighten the crank bolt, aren't you turning the engine in the proper rotation?
Someone posted in here about turning the crank the wrong way. When would that happen? When you tighten the crank bolt, aren't you turning the engine in the proper rotation?
Just did this on my truck, what a pain in the ass. First I broke a bit and then only got 4 of them out cleanly. So a right angle drill and a 7/32 drill bit and I drilled the heads off.
The problem with these screws is the shape of the head. It's the long taper that locks them in and not the threads. I have to deal with this all the time on the job as flat heads are used everywhere.
The company's solution was to go from a hex socket head to a torx socket head. I did the same here. The screw is a M6 x 12 TORX socket flat head. The different screws might give the next guy fits but if it's me I'll be happy to grab my T-30 and easily remove the stubborn bastids.