How NOT to restore the FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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Is heat stove slang? I thought that's what it's called.:eek:

I thought the gap check on the manifolds was in the FSM?
If not, then it's in the FSM for some other thing I've worked on. :meh:

good points on all accounts :D
 
Let's stop there for a moment and consider this achievement. Stock USA carb, stock intake & exhaust, stock emissions, stock ignition all in place. But HP was increased by 38%. This is a miraculous accomplishment.

Heh-heh, tell it like it is Jim!
 
Grab a couple of those rings and stick them in the bore to be sure ring end gap is OK, then install rings onto the new used Mud-sourced 1mm O/S pistons. Line up ring gaps on pistons so they are staggered every 90* around piston, and no gap on the thrust faces. Saturate rings and bores with light lubricant (WD40), smear assembly lube on rod bearing, squeeze it with the ring compressor, and whack one in the block. Smear, squeeze and whack 5 more times, then TORQUE every rod cap and main bearing cap using a good torque wrench one more time.

I am with you on the rings right up until you specify "no gap on the thrust faces" can you help me understand wht the thrust faces are? Are we talking the area right above the skirts?
 
The cleaned up exh manifold, curing the high-temp paint on the special hi-tech curing machine. New EGR blockoff held on w/ correct metal locknuts, 2 out of 3 downpipe studs are new toyota. CDan said 78 studs were discontinued, so 1987 studs were ordered. There is no significant difference.

DSC07690_zpsf524046c.jpg

Did you dis-assemble the 3-piece exhaust manifold and re-seal? From the diagrams that looks like it would not be so fun...

I do not see any mention of the heat-shield/flapper device in the exhaust manifold. I have heard that these mechanisms are notorious for failing after this many years, and some people fixing them closed and welding the gap between the shaft and the manifold. Do you have any guidance on this?

Thank you,
 
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We left off with the manifolds awaiting reassembly.

Because the manifolds were separated, it is necessary to get them lined up before tightening the intermanifold bolts. All bolts & studs have been cleaned & antiseezed. The face of the cyl head will be used as an alignment plate.

Please forgive my ignorance, and my fixation on the minutia...

I thought anti-sieze on a cleaned thread surface would throw off torque reading when you go to final assembly?

But I do have leaking manifolds that I need to tear down, and I am nervous about removing and separating this intricate assembly.

Is it acceptable to anti-seize the fasteners for these pieces? If yes, what to do (if anything) with the torque specs?
 
Yes, thrust face is the skirt on a slipper skirt piston. Try to keep the ring gaps off to the sides of the thrust face. It's also good practice to keep the gaps off the pin bore. When viewed from above, with the pin on the 9:00-3:00 axis there should be a gap roughly at 2:00, 4:00, 8:00, 10:00.

No, the 3-piece manifold was not leaking, because it was the only part the previous rebuilder hadn't dismantled and fawked up. It only gets disasembled and serviced if needed (rare).
 
Yes, you're fixating. The reason for the antiseez is to allow a more accurate torque reading in the long term. A clean & dry thread will give an accurate reading today. But in 6 months the super heated threads will be rusty & stuck, making it difficult to get an accurate retorque.

Will the actual clamp load be higher than spec at a given tork load today?
Yes, slightly.

Will it be easier to re-torque the fasteners as part of maintenance in a year or five?
Yes, very much.

You will ask similar question when you see me suggest the use of antiseez on lug nuts and brake parts. It may be considered improper by californians, but here in the rust belt, I've never seen a failure of a brake component or lug stud due to antiseez. But I've seen almost every brake failure and rusted off lug stud caused by a lack of antiseez.
 
My '78 FJ40 manifold studs were the only thing on my truck where I used threadlocker. Sounds odd, but my studs were backing off every 3 mo. and causing the manifold to leak. They have now stayed tight for 10+ years. Every other fastener on the truck, however, has anti-seize, including my lug studs.
 
Antiseez

Yes, you're fixating. The reason for the antiseez is to allow a more accurate torque reading in the long term. A clean & dry thread will give an accurate reading today. But in 6 months the super heated threads will be rusty & stuck, making it difficult to get an accurate retorque.

Will the actual clamp load be higher than spec at a given tork load today?
Yes, slightly.

Will it be easier to re-torque the fasteners as part of maintenance in a year or five?
Yes, very much.

You will ask similar question when you see me suggest the use of antiseez on lug nuts and brake parts. It may be considered improper by californians, but here in the rust belt, I've never seen a failure of a brake component or lug stud due to antiseez. But I've seen almost every brake failure and rusted off lug stud caused by a lack of antiseez.

I used Anti-Seize on every welded nut hole using a small round brush to get it into the threads.
I agree with Jim, can't hurt.
Picture 179.jpg
 
i use it, the nickel is supposed to be the best to use. the others actually dry out.
a little dab will do yah.
 
Thanks for the clarification on the rings - the clock guidance was perfect!

I was always afraid with anti-seize on fittings that are torqued that you could inadvertantly apply too much torque and snap the fastener. Do you still torque to the spec (eg; lug nuts to 85-95 ft/lbs), or do you lower torque reading by some factor?

Any comments on the heat riser assembly in exhaust manifold? Do you service or delete these? I have heard of them sticking open and cracking the bottom of the intake, and then engine runs like poo...

Thanks Jim, always a pleasure to read your tech!
 
I thought anti-seize was verboden on parts that get hot (exhaust, spark plugs, etc). Maybe it is just the plugs I've heard get stuck.
 
There are different flavors of anti-seize, the cheapest being those made primarily of copper in cheap grease to the best, high-concentration zinc in high-quality grease which is about $50 lb can.

High-temp anti-seize for dissimilar metals is usually made with nickel compound or stainless steel, graphite, alum, and can be good to over 2000* I use a high-temp Bostik A.S. on everything even though I'm in California, where we have pussy bolts / nuts that refuse to rust.

:D
 
I thought anti-seize was verboden on parts that get hot (exhaust, spark plugs, etc). Maybe it is just the plugs I've heard get stuck.

My understanding is that spark plugs have coated threads to prevent galling of dis-similar metals, and that putting a coating on there can result in stripped out spark plug holes in aluminum heads.

Plus, you are supposed to be changing them every 12,000 miles or 12 months so they should not be seizing...
 
The manual for my 40 says 12 months or 12k.

Sorry, just trying to understand a little bit better. I'll risk looking like a dumb ass in order to learn. Thanks for your help!

Damn it Pablo! What did we say about that outdated FSM? Oh yeah, it's our Bible. That's what I go by too. Good enough for Toyodasan.....:grinpimp:
 
I was thinking of the low temp stuff and 80's heads.

Here's the quote I was thinking of:
I have seen anti-seize cause spark plugs to get stuck in the head. The liquid lubricants in the compound dry out and you are left with a semi metallic hard paste in the threads. This was the cause of almost completely destroying the threads in the head of my Discovery. I know Bosch and NGK plug threads are coated at the factory and should be installed into dry clean threads in the head. This is also stated in the factory BMW repair guides. I know these aren't BMW's but its still an almn head vehicle. If you are working with an iron head I would use a little copper based anti-seize but not the low temp silver stuff. Other than the 406 small block I built when I was 18 I've been installing my plugs dry for the last 15 years with no issues and I take my plugs out a couple times a year to check them, plus all the plug replacements I did when I was a BMW tech.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/634012-need-help-replacing-spark-plugs-2.html
 
I was thinking of the low temp stuff and 80's heads.

Here's the quote I was thinking of:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/634012-need-help-replacing-spark-plugs-2.html

I have seen anti-seize cause spark plugs to get stuck in the head. The liquid lubricants in the compound dry out and you are left with a semi metallic hard paste in the threads. This was the cause of almost completely destroying the threads in the head of my Discovery. I know Bosch and NGK plug threads are coated at the factory and should be installed into dry clean threads in the head. This is also stated in the factory BMW repair guides. I know these aren't BMW's but its still an almn head vehicle. If you are working with an iron head I would use a little copper based anti-seize but not the low temp silver stuff. Other than the 406 small block I built when I was 18 I've been installing my plugs dry for the last 15 years with no issues and I take my plugs out a couple times a year to check them, plus all the plug replacements I did when I was a BMW tech.

Thank you, that matches what I have heard elsewhere. I appreciate it.

About the last thing I want to do on my DOHC aluminum head B18C1 is have to pull the head b/c I fuqued up the threads on a spark plug hole. You want to talk about scope creep... :D
 
I've been turning wrenches for over 35yrs , always use a light coating of anti-seize on the threads , mostly Permatex standard issue . As for exhaust parts , use the better copper-based types , can't go wrong there. Spent way too much time removing stuck studs/nuts/bolts from vehicles to not use these products . I know guys that use the silver types of anti-seize on battery cable lugs/studs !!! Grew up around diesel mechanics and they use far more of the stuff than any other trade I know of...
Sarge
 

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