Is heat stove slang? I thought that's what it's called.
I thought the gap check on the manifolds was in the FSM?
If not, then it's in the FSM for some other thing I've worked on.
good points on all accounts
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Is heat stove slang? I thought that's what it's called.
I thought the gap check on the manifolds was in the FSM?
If not, then it's in the FSM for some other thing I've worked on.
Let's stop there for a moment and consider this achievement. Stock USA carb, stock intake & exhaust, stock emissions, stock ignition all in place. But HP was increased by 38%. This is a miraculous accomplishment.
Might be a good point to bring up in the "Best 2F" thread.
Grab a couple of those rings and stick them in the bore to be sure ring end gap is OK, then install rings onto the new used Mud-sourced 1mm O/S pistons. Line up ring gaps on pistons so they are staggered every 90* around piston, and no gap on the thrust faces. Saturate rings and bores with light lubricant (WD40), smear assembly lube on rod bearing, squeeze it with the ring compressor, and whack one in the block. Smear, squeeze and whack 5 more times, then TORQUE every rod cap and main bearing cap using a good torque wrench one more time.
The cleaned up exh manifold, curing the high-temp paint on the special hi-tech curing machine. New EGR blockoff held on w/ correct metal locknuts, 2 out of 3 downpipe studs are new toyota. CDan said 78 studs were discontinued, so 1987 studs were ordered. There is no significant difference.
We left off with the manifolds awaiting reassembly.
Because the manifolds were separated, it is necessary to get them lined up before tightening the intermanifold bolts. All bolts & studs have been cleaned & antiseezed. The face of the cyl head will be used as an alignment plate.
Yes, you're fixating. The reason for the antiseez is to allow a more accurate torque reading in the long term. A clean & dry thread will give an accurate reading today. But in 6 months the super heated threads will be rusty & stuck, making it difficult to get an accurate retorque.
Will the actual clamp load be higher than spec at a given tork load today?
Yes, slightly.
Will it be easier to re-torque the fasteners as part of maintenance in a year or five?
Yes, very much.
You will ask similar question when you see me suggest the use of antiseez on lug nuts and brake parts. It may be considered improper by californians, but here in the rust belt, I've never seen a failure of a brake component or lug stud due to antiseez. But I've seen almost every brake failure and rusted off lug stud caused by a lack of antiseez.
I thought anti-seize was verboden on parts that get hot (exhaust, spark plugs, etc). Maybe it is just the plugs I've heard get stuck.
The manual for my 40 says 12 months or 12k.
Sorry, just trying to understand a little bit better. I'll risk looking like a dumb ass in order to learn. Thanks for your help!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/634012-need-help-replacing-spark-plugs-2.htmlI have seen anti-seize cause spark plugs to get stuck in the head. The liquid lubricants in the compound dry out and you are left with a semi metallic hard paste in the threads. This was the cause of almost completely destroying the threads in the head of my Discovery. I know Bosch and NGK plug threads are coated at the factory and should be installed into dry clean threads in the head. This is also stated in the factory BMW repair guides. I know these aren't BMW's but its still an almn head vehicle. If you are working with an iron head I would use a little copper based anti-seize but not the low temp silver stuff. Other than the 406 small block I built when I was 18 I've been installing my plugs dry for the last 15 years with no issues and I take my plugs out a couple times a year to check them, plus all the plug replacements I did when I was a BMW tech.
I was thinking of the low temp stuff and 80's heads.
Here's the quote I was thinking of:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/634012-need-help-replacing-spark-plugs-2.html
I have seen anti-seize cause spark plugs to get stuck in the head. The liquid lubricants in the compound dry out and you are left with a semi metallic hard paste in the threads. This was the cause of almost completely destroying the threads in the head of my Discovery. I know Bosch and NGK plug threads are coated at the factory and should be installed into dry clean threads in the head. This is also stated in the factory BMW repair guides. I know these aren't BMW's but its still an almn head vehicle. If you are working with an iron head I would use a little copper based anti-seize but not the low temp silver stuff. Other than the 406 small block I built when I was 18 I've been installing my plugs dry for the last 15 years with no issues and I take my plugs out a couple times a year to check them, plus all the plug replacements I did when I was a BMW tech.