How NOT to restore the FJ40 (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Best wishes to the CO, you've got the right man for the job.
 
awesome to hear.

a little too late thought...what about sourcing stuff through the toyota forklift dealers. they ran 2fs and i understand that many parts are cheaper through them than auto parts dealers
 
The big toy fork service dealer was PacLift on the west coast, but they are gone.

Please post up if anybody finds another friendly fork dealer. The normal ones don't want to talk about Cruiser parts, 'cause they are totally different from fork parts. :rolleyes:

Today's update: Parts are still trickling in from Toyota and Rockauto.
The 1mm OS used pistons came in the mail, they looked barely worn and are in the dishwasher at the machine shop now.
 
FJ40Jim said:
The 1mm OS used pistons came in the mail, they looked barely worn and are in the dishwasher at the machine shop now.
Click to expand...

That's what I call my kitchen parts washer too. But don't tell my wife...
 
Curious what you would consider high mileage on a 2F? I don't have any post 7/80 2Fs but a bunch of earlier 2Fs. Was thinking I would be better off with the later ones but after reading about the heads cracking and living in AZ guessing earlier is better.
 
Living in the Past said:
Curious what you would consider high mileage on a 2F? I don't have any post 7/80 2Fs but a bunch of earlier 2Fs. Was thinking I would be better off with the later ones but after reading about the heads cracking and living in AZ guessing earlier is better.
Click to expand...

If you are asking about the head cracking issue, it doesn't seem to be just mileage. they have shown cracking with only 100K on a 1986 2F. And a 200K 1982 2F. and a slew of others I can't remember now. It really seems to be more of an age issue. It's like they hit their expiration date at 25-30 years.

This is odd to me, because I've always bought into the idea that if building a durable engine is the goal, use the oldest parts possible. A block or crank or head that is 20 years old and has 200K miles on it and hasn't cracked yet, is never going to crack. Machine the parts straight and they should be perfect forever, because they are totally stress relieved & happy.

FWIW, I consider hi miles on a78-earlier 2F to be somewhere above 100K. They don't last as long as the 79-later engines, due to their lack of oil cooler, poor carburetor & emision calibration, non-hardened rocker shafts, heavy valve gear, etc...

The 81-later engines seem to be quite capable of running past 200K with any kind of maintenance.
 
Might be a good point to bring up in the "Best 2F" thread.
 
FJ40Jim said:
If you are asking about the head cracking issue, it doesn't seem to be just mileage. they have shown cracking with only 100K on a 1986 2F. And a 200K 1982 2F. and a slew of others I can't remember now. It really seems to be more of an age issue. It's like they hit their expiration date at 25-30 years.

This is odd to me, because I've always bought into the idea that if building a durable engine is the goal, use the oldest parts possible. A block or crank or head that is 20 years old and has 200K miles on it and hasn't cracked yet, is never going to crack. Machine the parts straight and they should be perfect forever, because they are totally stress relieved & happy.

FWIW, I consider hi miles on a78-earlier 2F to be somewhere above 100K. They don't last as long as the 79-later engines, due to their lack of oil cooler, poor carburetor & emision calibration, non-hardened rocker shafts, heavy valve gear, etc...

The 81-later engines seem to be quite capable of running past 200K with any kind of maintenance.
Click to expand...


I find this very disappointing. If the later 2F head is expected to last 25 to 30 years. 1981 to 1987 all the later 2f are already in this range. The idea of paying $900 for a new stripped head in a rebuild doesn't fit into most idea of a hobby vehicle. In my case it's not just one but many vehicles.

Curious your option of the life of the early 2F based on use? My big experience is with a 67 production F145. It had already been poorly rebuild (cotter pins on the castle nuts used on rod caps are important) when I bought the cruiser in 74. Using it on the highway in the 3K RPM plus range took it's toll. Keeping it below 1.8K RPM I think it will last for ever. Do you think RPM is a big factor in how long one of these inline six tractor motors will last? Compared to the V8 these hold almost double the oil and heaveir mass to deal with the heat.

It's been my personal experience (option) finding a good early 2F is easier then finding one of the later ones. It was common for a cruiser just a couple years old or less in the mid seventies to replaced by a V8. Some of these 2Fs found their way into early cruisers. In alot of cases these were because of their age second vehicles used for hunting and fishing not a DD. Have bought four of these cruisers and all have very nice running 2Fs. One a 71 with a 78 2F I parted out shortly after buying but the compression was excellent. The other three were owned by elderly men who rarely used them. In cases two weren't even registered in the nineties. The 81 and later 2Fs more than likely came from a heavier 60 series. In most cases a 60 owner was different than a 40 owner. More likely to take the cruiser on vaction down the highway rather than up into the hills camping. Less likely to replace the 2F with a V8. Most the 60 series with a V8 didn't happen until many years later. Plus most all 60 series have A/C which adds heat and restriction to the air going thru the radiator. If any of this is a factor in why the later 2Fs have the head failures:meh:
 
Interesting thread! Glad I rebuilt my 2F 13 years ago while pistons were available from Toyota. I'm gonna run mine until she quits and then it's getting a small block. I know, I know. I have been a 2F purist for a long time but a small block is so easy and cheap if you get lucky.

Can't wait to see how this turns out.
 
Bodean said:
I'm gonna run mine until she quits and then it's getting a small block. I know, I know. I have been a 2F purist for a long time but a small block is so easy and cheap if you get lucky.

Can't wait to see how this turns out.
Click to expand...

x2 :cool:
 
I'm going 3FE when mine drops, assuming I can find a good donor. My princess just bought Tucker74's 40 with a 3FE and its a great mate.
 
Any updates Jim?
 
Mace said:
Might be a good point to bring up in the "Best 2F" thread.
Click to expand...

Relevant posts were copied into that thread.

:beer:





Thank you for keeping this on track Jim.

:beer:
 
Last edited:
FJ40Jim said:
If you are asking about the head cracking issue, it doesn't seem to be just mileage. they have shown cracking with only 100K on a 1986 2F. And a 200K 1982 2F. and a slew of others I can't remember now. It really seems to be more of an age issue. It's like they hit their expiration date at 25-30 years.

This is odd to me, because I've always bought into the idea that if building a durable engine is the goal, use the oldest parts possible. A block or crank or head that is 20 years old and has 200K miles on it and hasn't cracked yet, is never going to crack. Machine the parts straight and they should be perfect forever, because they are totally stress relieved & happy.

FWIW, I consider hi miles on a78-earlier 2F to be somewhere above 100K. They don't last as long as the 79-later engines, due to their lack of oil cooler, poor carburetor & emision calibration, non-hardened rocker shafts, heavy valve gear, etc...

The 81-later engines seem to be quite capable of running past 200K with any kind of maintenance.
Click to expand...

If I am going through a build, I have the parts magnafluxed anyway. There is no reason to spend all that money. Castings are usually cheap and the smallest part od the build cost.

Jim, do mil your heads in any of your builds, or is this a lost cause on the 2F
 
All heads get milled.
Maybe only .010 to straighten out the head, if it is closed chamber going on a block bored 1.5mm O/S. With minimal mill that combo will end up at 8.7:1 CR, which is pushing the limit for max efficiency on 87 octane ditchwater.

Maybe mill .060 if it a 75-80 head going on a block that is only .5mm OS. That gets around 8.5 IIRC.

Every head gets hot tanked first, then magnafluxed, and then if it is not cracked on top of the exh port, we continue w/ the milling and SBC valve install.
 
FJsnoozer said:
Are the F motors higher comp since they were from the leaded days. And the F 1.5 and so on?

Sorry for the off topic.
Click to expand...
I don't think lead had anything to do with compression, that would be octane. Lead was used to lubricate the valves, mostly the exhaust IIRC. John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

CondeCruiser
The '76 FJ40 not really a build thread
Replies
1
Views
476
CondeCruiser
CondeCruiser
ASO544
1973 FJ40 New Alternator Not Charging
Replies
19
Views
740
Coolerman
Coolerman
W
FJ40 Not Running
Replies
8
Views
612
Rzeppa
Rzeppa
T
How to solve sticky throttle
Replies
8
Views
665
t00manyuserz
T

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 5 (members: 0, guests: 5)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom