How NOT to restore the FJ40 (3 Viewers)

[yooper]

Why would you spend that much time messing up the t-stat housing? It's got to be cheaper to just buy a replacement.


When my 2F is all worn out I'm taking it to Ohio... Actually Jim will probably be retired by then, because there is nothing wrong with it.

 

[Chamba]

That air con unit looks like a ccot unit I helped a guy install years ago into his 1980 fj40-the worst 'factory fit' I've ever seen.

Your shop is the only reason I'd ever want to live in Ohio. Nice work.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Transfer case was "rebuilt"?

This thread is a zombie that won't die. So here is this month's retelling of further fixing on the "fully restored & rebuilt" FJ40.

PO stated Transmission & transfer case were completely rebuilt.
But transfer case appears to have been covered in 30 years worth of dirt & gunk.




Date code makes it the 2029th transfer case built in Feb. of 78, so the case (and it's dirt) appears to be original to the truck.




The good news is, unlike the engine, carb, air-con, etc, it appears to be un-molested by the PO. The spline on the transmission is good, so no need to get inside there.



The driven spline in the input gear is also good.




Shift splines in 2/4WD also look excellent. Inside of case is amazingly clean, in light of external condition.



All for now. Be back after work.

 

[FJ40Jim]

After the top cover is pulled, the gears can be inspected. They also look surprisingly good. The T-case has a worn rear bearing, which leads to leaky rear seal, so the oil level was very low when the truck arrived here. The concern was that the gear teeth would be worn or blued, but that's not the case.




After the rear bearing retainer is pulled, the rear race and bearing can be inspected. This wear is the source of the looseness in the t-case output shaft.




Other than the worn bearings, seals, idler shaft, the t-case guts look good. A proper rebuild with a complete rebuild kit is all that's needed.
Scraping 30 years of crusty schmutz off the t-case is time consuming, but it has to be done before the empty case even goes in the tank.





After washing in the solvent tank, it doesn't look bad.




The cleaned gears are stuffed back in the case, along with the new bearings & seals from the rebuild kit.




All closed up. It seems the layers of 90wt and dirt protected the outside of the T-case. After soaking in the carb stripper tank, all the bolts and small parts looked good also.




Mating to the transmission, after scraping piles of the same gunk off the outside of the H42.




Ready to mate w/ BH.




Getting close to reinstallation time.

 

[SteveH]

Minor hijack - what solvent do you use in your solvent tank? - looks like it does a great job.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Graymills Super Agitene.

http://partswashers-pumps.graymills.com/item/cleaning-fluids/general-purpose-solvents/item-1488

 

[Weber Sarge]

I always start a trans rebuild with a pressure washer , hate it but they always look like the above when the come here...
Sarge

 

[nuclearlemon]

lol....annies transmission and transfer looked a bit worse, but they are considerably older and were never "rebuilt". you are definitely turning this cruiser into a proper work of art. you should have a heck of a wall of shame when done

 

[enfield]

I always start a trans rebuild with a pressure washer , hate it but they always look like the above when the come here...
Sarge

I'm about to pull mine for a clutch/reseal. Would it hurt to pressure wash/degrease the transmission and Tcase, if I'm not going to rebuild them?

 

[nuclearlemon]

keep the tcase sealed up on the shifter (i put an aerosol cap on there) and blast away and you should be fine. if you think you may have gotten any water in anything, when mounted pull the drain plug and let it sit open for a half hour so anything might drip out

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yeah, what Nuke said above.
I still prefer to use a scraper to get the worst of it off, otherwise the PW just blows it everywhere, including all over me.

 

[nuclearlemon]

yup...i scrape the big stuff, soak in cleanser and scrub with a brush, soak again, then blast off.

 

[brian]

can the date code be located on areas other the one in the above picture?
just went looking at mine for curiosity sakes.....and didn't see anything stamped in them.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Brian, the date code is on a stamping pad on the right side of the t-case on ~'76 and earlier. the stamping pad is still on the later t-cases, but no longer has the date stamped on it after ~'77.

A pic of a '76 t-case date code is in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transfer-case-output-flange.651741/

 

[enfield]

yup...i scrape the big stuff, soak in cleanser and scrub with a brush, soak again, then blast off.

Thanks guys, that's what I will do!

 

[myquestoyota]

Gee, there's a guy in Eastern Wa that will take your junk off of your hands. he's bringing some restored cruisers to Seattle soon. Blanket party anyone?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/4506026615.html

 

[bulldoglover]

Gee, there's a guy in Eastern Wa that will take your junk off of your hands. he's bringing some restored cruisers to Seattle soon. Blanket party anyone?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/4506026615.html

That sounds like a fantastic idea!!

 

[torfab]

This is not 100% verified, but rumor has it that his stellar work is displayed at a local dealer in Lynnwood, WA by Alderwood mall.

 

[toyman317]

Subscribed. Thanks Jim.

 

[vancitycoop]

such wisdom..