?? How do you know if your crank is bad??

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Mrbinks79, Jun 23, 2008.

  1. Mrbinks79

    Mrbinks79

    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Victoria, TX
    Okay I know that my crank is pretty chewed up from oil starvation. The Harmonic balancer is also chewed up. The bearings are worst in the front and get better as they go back through the rods and the last rod and rear main bearings look like they just came out of the box. I have most of them off had to put the caps back on to turn the crank to get the pressure plate off.

    So how do I know if these need to be replaced. I heard that the crank may or may not be able to be turned due to the bearing areas only being so strong and so hard? I haven't pulled the cam so don't know the status of the bearings.
    Main Bearings5.jpg Rear Main.jpg Rod Bearings.jpg
  2. Mrbinks79

    Mrbinks79

    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Victoria, TX
    more pics

    rod bearings (one side) 4th and 6th from the front are still in the motor will have them out tomorrow.

    And some Harmonic balancer pics oh and my work area. Everyone else posts them.
    HB1.jpg HB2.jpg Shop.jpg
  3. Fast Eddy

    Fast Eddy SILVER Star

    Messages:
    11,866
    Location:
    Morgan Hill, CA
    Bring it to the machine shop. They'll let you know if it's salvageable.
  4. Pinion

    Pinion

    Messages:
    1,123
    Location:
    Milford, Mass
    Save yourself the time and money. Get a new short block
    and turn yours in for a core.
    :beer:
  5. Mrbinks79

    Mrbinks79

    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Victoria, TX
    There are only two machine shops here in this little town and I don't know if either is worth a crap. What should I pay for a new short block on one of these toy motors?
  6. Pinion

    Pinion

    Messages:
    1,123
    Location:
    Milford, Mass
    Pick up the Yellow Pages and ask around. Then widen your search parameters for as far as you want to drive. See who wants to pay less, see how far you want to take your block. If you have a hoist and stand, you're at your own decision. You arent going to save any money shipping somewhere, and in the meantime you'll be keeping your money local.
  7. bsmith123

    bsmith123

    Messages:
    3,079
    Location:
    Norfolk United Kingdom
    Crank turning

    I would suggest checking the prices first for a new crank after checking if you can save the old. There are limits on how much can be turned down.

    An old seasoned block once line bored will stay truer than a brand new block. But I imagine any FJ block will be a recon one


    A short block is easy but it's time or money eh?
  8. Mrbinks79

    Mrbinks79

    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Victoria, TX
    The time I have this is a project I'm not in any hurry rebuilding the engine isn't something that bothers me. I may just replace the crank so I don't have to worry about the machine shops around here. Any thoughts on the Harmonic Balancer?
  9. Pinion

    Pinion

    Messages:
    1,123
    Location:
    Milford, Mass
    If your balancer is f'ed up and the snout on your crank is worn with those circular patterns, get a new block and let someone take the time to rebuild the one you have. In the end, no matter how long it takes, you will spend more than you need and not get the result you expect.
  10. rsbcruiser

    rsbcruiser SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,459
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    my74fengine rebuild.

    Hey Mrbinks. Actually, those bearings don't look that bad. For a Landcruiser motor, that is.

    You should be able to find a used motor for $ 600 maybe more maybe less. Look for a 2f. A Good rebuild will cost $ 2000+. If you rebuild I suggest going to a 1.5f or a 2f. Better oiling being the main reason. If you go used you might end up buying the same thing you have right now. You could do a home rebuild. replace the rings and bearings and call it good. Taking your chances there. The block should be inspected and measured for wear first. Man-a-fre sells rebuilds. $ 3000 + shipping last I checked. Then there is the small block chevy option. Another way that does not get explored that much is putting a Chevy straight six in there. Check Advanced Adaptors and Man-a-fre for those options.
  11. rsbcruiser

    rsbcruiser SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,459
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Put a speedy sleeve on it. Speedy sleeves are collars that fit over the OD of the harmonic balancer.

  12. The Chevy I-6 (250/292) bolts up the same as the small block, same bellhousing, and I think very similar motor mounts. So, if you went with the Chev I-6 the adapters would be the same if the info I got was correct.
  13. Mrbinks79

    Mrbinks79

    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Victoria, TX
    F a chevy engine it's a Toyota. That's my opinion... I will do a rebuild here at the house I've rebuilt engines in the past so it's not going to be anything new to me. I am thinking about just finding a crank from someone on here and replacing the one I have due to having it turned would likely cost more and you only have a small tollerance that can be turned. Also rsbcruiser, This motor is a 2f the 1f came out in 94 PO had a shop do it and they did a pretty crappy job. Only one tight bolt in the transmission, and other BS like that.
  14. rsbcruiser

    rsbcruiser SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,459
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Ya baby! I feel your pain. I took my Cruiser to a Landcruiser specialist. $ 1000 later and they put my e brake backing plate on backwards (for the 55 it is 180 deg off from the 40). Basically, I had to redo everything except the problem I went in for. And now two years later it looks like I am going to have to redo that too. And Mr Binks as you can see from my engine rebuild thread, I think we share the same opin on keeping the LC motor. Want a ball hone ? Cheap.:lol:
  15. Mrbinks79

    Mrbinks79

    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Victoria, TX
    Now that a few of you have seen the bearings what kind of shape do you think my cam is in without me pulling it?

    Z
  16. rsbcruiser

    rsbcruiser SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,459
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Yard that puppy out of there Zach! Fairly easy. You will need a cam bearing puller to repace them if they are bad. One thing you could do if you don't pull is to reach in there, grab the cam and try to jiggle it like you are trying to pull it through out the bottom of the block. Since the CS is gone you can also spin it in place, might tell you something. Bet your cam bearings are in similiar condition to the CS bearings but you never know tell you go.
  17. Pighead

    Pighead Stop calling it an FJ SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,415
    Location:
    Walmart parking lot
    I bet your cam lobes are pitted, but the bearings are OK. What do I win?
    I have a spare crankshaft or two....but shipping would be a PIA.




  18. Mrbinks79

    Mrbinks79

    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Victoria, TX
    I'm sure shipping would suck but it may be a possibility later. I'm getting an engine for $400 stones from SC comes complete with 4speed and bellhousing. Also a crate full of other parts. The only thing he wants is the starter and alt. Hoping to get it to East TX in the next couple weeks at which time I intend on renting a pickup and going to get it. Then the plan is to get it in and start the rebuild on the motor in the garage. No hurry on that one though.

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