1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

How do I wire my new compressor...

Discussion in 'Tools and Fabrication' started by KY Longhunter, May 10, 2009.

  1. KY Longhunter

    KY Longhunter SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,385
    Location:
    Bowling Green, KY
    Last week I bought a Campbell Hausfeld 60 gallon 230V air compressor which is supposed to be hard wired. The compressor came with little to no instructions on how to wire in to existing fuse box.

    I want to use an existing box I had previously wired in my garage for my 220V Lincoln welder with 20 amp double pole fuse.

    I asked at Lowes how to wire and their master electrician confirmed that I have all the proper 12/2 wiring, 20 amp double pole fuse block, etc. but now I need to know how to make connections.

    This seems simple but I must admit Im stumped and dont want to screw anything up.

    Does black wire go to black connection, white to white and green to green?

    I hooked it up this way with compressor switch in off position and it came on ???

    Attached Files:

  2. KY Longhunter

    KY Longhunter SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,385
    Location:
    Bowling Green, KY
    more pics...

    Attached Files:

  3. John Smith

    John Smith In the garage GOLD Star

    Messages:
    3,824
    Location:
    Maryland
    Follow the wires coming from the motor in your picture to the pressure / on - off switch. Remove the cover on the pressure switch and that is where you will attach your wires. You should reattach the motor wiring the way it came from the factory and put the cover back on. There is no connection you make there.
  4. bkfj40

    bkfj40 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,596
    Location:
    shenandoah valley, va
    I think John might be on to something here. If all else fails, the installation instructions might not be a bad place to start :grinpimp:


    bk
  5. KY Longhunter

    KY Longhunter SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,385
    Location:
    Bowling Green, KY
    I knew I would get a good ribbing, but the truth is the instructions only said "consult an electrician."

    Mud seems to have more than it's share of engineers and the like so I figured I would ask you guys.

    I posted same question in the 40 Tech section and got some really good info.

    Thanks.
  6. Dirtsquirt

    Dirtsquirt New Member

    Messages:
    293
    Location:
    Spokane Wa.
    X2 John Smith.
  7. Sparkie247

    Sparkie247 Regular Member

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    Zionsville, IN
    John's right. The power goes through a pressure switch to turn the motor on and off when the compressor needs to cycle. There's another function provided by that device. It also unloads the compression side of the pump so that the first rotation of the compressor is not under load.
    There is one other requirement that you are missing, though. You are required to have a means of disconnect within sight of the equipment. This sounds fancy, but most small appliances and machines use the cord/plug to meet that requirement. Was the cord end in your pictures on the compressor? If so, just put in a matching receptacle. If your compressor came with a "whip" but no cord end you can put on a field installed end along with a mating receptacle.
    If the breaker is within the same space and has no other obstructions, it will be considered acceptable means of disconnect, and you can simply make your connections in a j-box on the wall or at the pressure switch on the compressor.

    Something else that may lead to some confusion is that the cords come standard with black, white and green. White is USUALLY used for neutral. In the case of a 230VAC application, the white is used for the second hot leg. You should read 120VAC from either Black or White to Green and 240VAC from Black to White.

    I hope this helps you out. You are welcome to PM or e-mail. I'll do what I can to walk you though it. BTW I'm a commercial electrical contractor with 20 years experience........
  8. Slowerthanu

    Slowerthanu SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,295
    Location:
    Bountiful, Utah
    I just got rid of my Crapsman (FIL got it) for the same compressor.

    I must be a nancy, I called an electrician, I've been bit before and I don't like it. Its worse than being tased and I've been through that before too.
  9. KY Longhunter

    KY Longhunter SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,385
    Location:
    Bowling Green, KY
    Im really surprised this has been as popular a thread as it seems.

    I debated whether to post up my question in 40 tech. Was afraid it was a little dumb to be asking but oh well...

    Sparkie247..Thanks for the offer. I got it running by taking cover off pressure switch and wiring black, white and green to their respective spots.

    To answer your question the plug pictured is actully NOT the plug I used but the plug to my 220v 20a Lincoln 175HD welder. I was trying to use the same outlet I had run to my garage for the welder.

    I bought a length of flexible cord and a heavy duty 230v 50a plug at Lowe's and wired it so I could use the same outlet the welder uses.

    So far everything works except my compressor apparently came without the air filter that screws into the right side of the pump.
    I called Tractor Supply and they said it should have been in a clear plastic bag ziptied to the pump. :bang:

    Anyways, thanks to all for their help and responses:cheers:
  10. Trollhole

    Trollhole THC Moderator Supporting Vendor

    Messages:
    18,603
    Location:
    Mauldin, SC
    AT first I laughed thinking you were wiring straight to the motor. Then I realized someone could have gotten hurt. If the pressure relief would have failed you could have had a real mess. Without the pressure switch that motor would have just kept running. Another thing to think about before you mount it to the floor is see how easy it is to drain the tank of water. If it is going to be a pain getting your hand under there make and extension and install a ball valve.
  11. KY Longhunter

    KY Longhunter SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,385
    Location:
    Bowling Green, KY
    Trollhole...uhh, actually the first time I did wire it directly to motor but quickly figured out this had to be wrong.

    Im sure some must think Im a complete moron, but seriously NO instructions came with the compressor.

    I did go back to TSC today and a "carefree" worker girl just gave me the air filter that screws into the side of pump.

    DSC00005.JPG

    Project complete. :eek:
    Last edited: May 25, 2009

  12. LDowney

    LDowney New Member

    Messages:
    1,221
    Location:
    Kennesaw, GA
    This is a good point that Marshall has flagged here. Keeping the water (i.e, & subsequent rust) out of your tank is import too. In the back of my shop the previous owner had built a platform which allowed an elevated mounting for the compressor so I attached a length of hose with a shut-off valve to the tank drain. The entire length of hose is below the tank so all the water collects in the hose (never any in the tank unless I forget to drain for a long time) and is easily drained into a bucket by opening the valve.

    Your shop may not offers this easy option, but you are Cruiser owner so I expect that you will come up with your own inventive solution.
  13. Rubiconcruiser

    Rubiconcruiser New Member

    Messages:
    548
    Hey KY first and foremost lose the three prong plug, herein referred to as a cord cap. Get either a 240 volt twist lock or a decent 20 amp 3 wire. Case in point, someone will plug their equipt, (Drill) into the compressor outlet and kiss themselves goodnight. Pressure switch is wired in series with the feeder line, and be sure it is grounded, if it isnt YOU ARE. BE VERY CAREFULLLL> as elmer would say.
    Good luck
  14. KY Longhunter

    KY Longhunter SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,385
    Location:
    Bowling Green, KY
    Let me clear things up a bit.​

    Picture # 1 shows a regular 3 prong plug to my old compressor beside plug from my Lincoln 230v welder.
    DSC00001.JPG
    Picture # 2 shows a regular 3 prong plug to my old compressor beside 240v 50a plug I purchased at Lowes to wire to new compressor so I could use the same outlet I installed to run my welder.
    DSC00002.JPG
    And last but not least Picture # 3 is picture of flexible cord wired to the pressure switch.
    DSC00004.JPG
    Thanks guys for looking over my shoulder... ​
  15. KY Longhunter

    KY Longhunter SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,385
    Location:
    Bowling Green, KY
    BTW, the compressor was mounted to a heavy wooden pallet when I bought it.

    I left it on that which elevates it approx. 4" to get to the drain.

    I plan on leaving it that way unless someone can tell me why not...
  16. Bogo

    Bogo New Member

    Messages:
    1,748
    Location:
    On the farm
    Vibration will walk it all over the place. Put the hose on the drain and bolt the sucker to the floor. Use concrete wedge anchors. You just drill the right sized hole, pound them in, and tighten the nut. The critical thing is you drill the right sized hole. Oh, hammer drills and bits make drilling concrete much faster.

    This is a concrete wedge anchor:

    Attached Files:

  17. Rob Faucett

    Rob Faucett SILVER Star

    Messages:
    287
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Some manufacturers (Sears) will not honor warranty if it's bolted to floor.
  18. Trollhole

    Trollhole THC Moderator Supporting Vendor

    Messages:
    18,603
    Location:
    Mauldin, SC

    Really? I cannot see why. Any documented proof? WHat the heck are you supposed to mount it to the wall?

    As far as the compressor above. Your not finished. I'd put the air cleaner inlet facing down as to not allow crap to just fall in it and get the filter even more clogged. Also I'd purchase a conduit cable clamp for the poer wire going into the pressure relief valve. With the vibration the wire is not going to last.
  19. Dirtsquirt

    Dirtsquirt New Member

    Messages:
    293
    Location:
    Spokane Wa.
    Rob is Right

    While anchoring a verticle tank to the floor is the right thing to do.
    Doing in wrong can cause big troubles and cost you your tank warranty.
    Bolting the tank to concrete with anchors. and bolting it tight
    is a no no. The vibrations over time can cause a seperation of the legs from the tank.
    The proper way is buy some Cork and rubber vibration isolator
    Square pads usually 3/4 to an inch thick.
    Set the machine on these and bolt through them Double nut or
    lock nut the anchor bolts and leave em loose.
    Cut the tread out of an old tire usually works well. I have seen
    that done many times.
  20. Trollhole

    Trollhole THC Moderator Supporting Vendor

    Messages:
    18,603
    Location:
    Mauldin, SC
    Very cool. I did not know that.

Share This Page