Builds HJ61 Cruiser build (1 Viewer)

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I'd have to pull the whole h55 in pieces to swap it.
And it's probably cheaper to just buy a new box. (Long term solution)

The transfer from the lj73 looks better!
Should there be wear stripes where the rear idler thrust washer rests against the half case?
These are the gears I'll use, and the case.
IMG_20150512_210954.jpg
 
Now... I pulled the shaft from the r151r (lucky it has a collar split shaft)
Turns out this even has a bonus, with the as-new pto gear with 'sync' cut on the teeth! Great!! Dunno why... They are static, frees out in the pto box.
Anyway, here is the weld-setup, just needs the grinder and welder.
IMG_20150512_220013.jpg


How much should I worry about these hi low synchros?
IMG_20150512_220215.jpg
 
Bad picture... But the centre of the middle synchro is a bit worn. I guess this can cause some extra slop in the final output... I'll see which ones are best from the two cases when I clean them up and change bearings.
 
Transfer job is halting, it's pouring down outside. Parts are cleaned and almost ready.
Where does the smallest oil seal go?

Gonna take a drive and borrow a mig, and press the bearings.

How much should I heat and suspend cooling off the DIY NcNightmare gears?

Also, the 'open bolt hole' towards the tranny needs to be threaded and plugged. It's a shame about these holidays here, can't find a tap or bit.
Maybe I'll make my own self tapping screw and work into the cast with sealant and grind it flat on the back.
Don't get aluminum wire for the mig either.

Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny, maybe I can get this back together.

Maybe mock in the 3' exhaust if my back isn't gone. 12HT guys, will a 3' exhaust four straight the oem flange?
 
I use the stock dump pipe off the back of the turbo then 3" welded to it. Is this what your asking?

Ah, you just welded directly to the dump, where the triangular bolted outlet is?
I've seen a dump pipe advertised just for that, looks like the oem dump has a narrow outlet.
 
I like how you covered the PTO gear but not the transfer input gear :lol:

I did cover both, of course.
Removed it on the input gear real quick to see if any damage was done, and to spin it and check for throw/roundness.
All good, it seems. Unless the welds penetrated into the shaft....
 
Got the final piece of the puzzle, oiler funnel is in.

uploadfromtaptalk1432766511109.JPG


Had my gears checked, they are true and straight, of course a bit out of balance, but I can live with that,I really doubt it matters.
I just hope the welds hold up, only one way to find out!

uploadfromtaptalk1432766569769.jpg


I'll probably get the transfer back together tomorrow, and button up the final exhaust mounts Friday. Need to pull the studs from the tires, maybe I can stick up mounts and trim the old warn bumper, and get the winch in!
Saturday I'm driving, either way!!
Fingers crossed.

How to set output preload without proper tools? I only have torque wrench and the original shim...
 
Sooo... I can't find a nearby bar tourqe wrench to set preload with... And the one I ordered does not show up.
I'm sick of waiting now.
Any bright minds out there that can calculate how much pull it would take on one of the studs with a fish pull scale?

Exhaust is in, at least the hard part. Just need a nice end on it. Sound turned out as I wanted, can't wait to hear it under load.
 
There are multiple methods of setting wheel bearing preload without a fish scale or bar torque wrench.

I'll try to find them.
 

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