Builds Here we go (FJ-40 getting a 3B/Turbo/H55f)... (2 Viewers)

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More bodywork today....

The rust along the fender well on the left side...
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Man does the plasma cutter make this easy.
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The lip in there was rusted pretty bad. When I tried to run a quick bead of weld to clean up the mess made by the plasma cutter, it just blew such a big hole I decided to cut in a new bit of the lip.
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before 1.jpg
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Here's the lip completed...
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And the patch panel...
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And here it is welded in. I think i need to put the spool of .023 wire on, because this .030 is really having some burn-through issues. Either that, or I'm not very used to working with 18GA. :)
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Here's the weld beads (ugly too, I might add)
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Ground down (looks MUCH better than my booger-welds there)
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And with a quick spritz of primer.
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It's passable. I'm still not convinced that this is the best way, but if I decide to order whole new quarters, I'll call this "practice.":D
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So, since I was tired of fussing with thin metal, I whipped out the 1/8" and got to work fabbing up a bracket for the exhaust.

The original exhaust runs outside the framerail on the left side (and crosses over behind the rear axle to exit on the right), but the 3B exits on the right, so I figure it'd be better to simply keep it on the right side the whole way.

But there was a bracket with a small heat shield and an exhaust hanger on it, but it wouldn't fit right on the right side, and a mirror image was needed (even though the frame has the holed already in it).

So, I got to cutting, bending and generally fabbing one up...

Here's the first three bits tacked together, along with the original (the one I'm mirroring).
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Set in place on the frame...
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And I was just going to weld on a tab for the third bolt, but I had this scrap of square tube lying around, so it seemed like a good idea to use it here.
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These welds are better... I'm also impressed with myself for remembering to leave enough space to let water drain out of all of this.
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I drilled the holed and finish welded the bottom on.
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Tomorrow morning I'll hit the hardware store and buy some nuts so that I can weld them on, and I'll finish up the weld on the top side. I'll also cut the exhaust hangers off the original and weld them onto this one, as well as cleaning up the end (so it's not pointy and sharp)

Overkill? Probably. But I'm having a ball. And when it's done, it'll look almost factory. Almost. :grinpimp:

Dan
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Did I see a dodge power wagon in the shop

Yes you did.

Dad's '62 WM-300, using the plow to push my HJ-45 into the shop last winter... Still less than 22,000 original miles. The engine has never had more than plugs and points done.
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Dad's '53 B3PW (ALL original--he's actually donating it to a museum in the near future). Here it is dressed up with Christmas Lights a few years ago...
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Mom's '58
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This one really does drive like it left the showroom. They bought it in Montana, and drove it without issue to New Mexico a few years ago.

For the most part, that is NOT my bodywork on those. We've got a real pro who likes to tinker with the Power Wagons, and he's painted (and done some of the body work on) the red and green ones.

Dan
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Quick update...

I've been busy with bodywork this week. You can read all about it here. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...anels-has-anyone-done-thread.html#post4233787

But just to keep some pics showing the overall progress...
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I'm thinking I very well might have the quarters replaced and the vast majority of the bodywork done by this Friday. If that's the case, then I'm sitting real pretty if I want to push on to take this to CM09.

Also, I finally got the 40 series/5 speed crossmember isolator, and some very useful wiring pigtails so that I can wire up the EDIC motor, both thanks to Radd Cruisers.

Dan
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Thank you for the compliments.

I can't wait to start swapping the motor either. I was tinkering with it bolting on the PS bracketry (now I just have to locate a 3B PS pump somewhere...). Also realized I'll have to get creative with the air intake, as the inlet for the turbo points directly at where the PS pump should be, and there's not a huge amount of room to play with.

Either way, it's sometime in the near future....

But here's where it sits tonight (cross posted from the thread in the 40 section).
overview.jpg

I've also got to get busy locating some bits for the 3B, like the alternator oil lines (a bit worn), and I'll probably have to take the hoses for the Safari turbo into the hose shop to get new ones. No leaks for me, please!

Also, I decided to locate the bracket for the clutch line here. This should clear the steering column (not by a lot, but should clear), and be clear of the throttle linkage.
clutch line bracket.jpg

That's some diesel tech for today, sorta. ;)


Dan
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So, I'm pondering the fuel filter here.... I want to add a pre-filter to the fuel system. I'm debating between either a Racor, or sourcing a Toyota filter from a diesel pickup.

The Toyota filter seems like a good idea because I've already got the same filter in the faux-lux, so I'd only have to worry about buying one type of fuel filter for the whole fleet. They are kind of pricey though, at 20+ dollars or so each.

I don't know much about the Racor filters, other than they have a very good reputation. I notice that the vast majority of their filters (the 100 and 200 series mostly) are good for 15GPH. Seems like that's way more than enough for a turbocharged 3B, but I'm not sure. Which filter have other people used?

Dan
 
Aside from various rust repair on the body, I've been doing little bits here and there getting ready to swap the 3B into the frame.

I got a block heater installed today. I had this block heater sitting around from trying to put it in my 2LT-E, but this more robust Carquest unit was just too deep to fit there, so it was just sitting around the shop. A quick check with a ruler and I decided to try it in the 3B.

Worked great!
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That's Carquest 78291, for searching purposes. I really like the machined block heater here, as opposed to the stamped versions that are more common. Seems stronger, and I like strong.

I've got to find a wiring diagram for the BJ-73, so I can figure out the EDIC wiring. I was able to get the EDIC motor moving today. With power supplied to one wire, one was clearly the shutoff position, and the other two just made the motor run continuously from start to stop and back--over and over and over.... But at least I know the motor works now!

Dan
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bump for an update ?
 
Funny you should mention it....

I've been steadily dealing with rust. In fact, I very nearly welded in the right rocker panel this afternoon, but decided there was no reason to rush it (that is gospel with body work).

I've been busy tracking down parts and stuff, and today I spent WAY more time than I should have getting the PS idler bearing out. The thing was so rusty (probably had something to do with the bearing failure) that even supporting it with two bars the hydraulic press bent the pulley. I'm going to see CDan tomorrow to see if another idler pulley will work there, but spent a long time today using a brass drift to carefully get the pulley straight (it's OK, but I would still prefer a new one).

Also spent a good deal of time with Mark from Metal Tech discussing the cage that's on the way (Jackson Cage), because some of the details of that cage directly effect the rust repair I'm doing at the moment.

I'm also ready to put the motor into the frame. I'm heading to Alia76's tomorrow to help him put a motor back in one of his cruisers, then it'll be more body work tomorrow. I'm planning on actually putting the motor into the frame on Thursday.

But here's two quick pics of some minor rust repair...
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Like I say: tomorrow I'll be helping someone else's cruiser, and then I'll go see CDan for a BIG parts order, and I should be able to spend the afternoon doing more rust repair and bodywork.

Does anyone know if the spin on fuel filter/water separator used on the diesel pickups/Hilux ever came without a primer pump? I will either use that (so the filter will be common between multiple vehicles), or a Racor.

Dan
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ahh an engine swap...

I just completed a 3B swap also, finding edic controls & relays in good condition are not easy so I think you are best to just use a morse cable or a heavy duty choke cable, this does the trick nicely & elimmates the possibilty of engine stall because of bad oil pressure (not a good thing when on the trails in the middle of tricky steep section!)
You will proably be best off to get rid of the clutch fan altogether & install an electric fan. i know everyone has different opinions on this, but depending on where yuo live & what driving you do , the 3B does not get very hot so unless you live somewhere hot (sorry I did not check where you live) you may not even need it. Although I say install one anyways, I live in British Columbia and drove :steer: for two years without any fan whatsover !

good luck, it will be a nice rig for sure.
 
Thanks guys. I got some good tinkering in today. I even took a few pictures. But then some unnamed girlfriend left the cable to download the pictures to the computer sitting on the workbench. You'll all have to wait until tomorrow. :cool:

In a nutshell: finished rust repair behind the left rocker. Not all that big of a deal--but tomorrow I WILL weld the rocker into place. Exciting stuff.

I also cleaned and powdercoated some engine bracketry. The PS brackets never looked so good! Now I just might be forced to strip the motor, clean and paint it just so the nice clean brackets don't make the rest of it look like butt.

Also, got started swapping the parking brake over to the split case. I'll probably do a separate thread on just that process in the 40 section since I don't see one. Would probably be done with that job if I wasn't so anal as to want to powdercoat the parking brake backing plate before bolting it onto the split case.

Depending on when I get my engine hoist back (and when the girlfriend has to be taken back to the airport) I may also attempt to weld in the motor mounts on the frame tomorrow. Fingers crossed, but no promises.

I have to work all next week in Indianapolis (lame!), so it's going to kill me sitting there knowing I've got projects to do here. Also, I put in a rather large order with CDan yesterday. 3B PS pump, plus enough stuff to rebuild the brakes and axles completely.

Does anyone know if there's a PS idler pulley that would work to replace the 3B one? The 3B one is only listed as an assembly, and it is "manufacturer discontinued." Trying to replace the bearing in mine yesterday, the press (yes, using a press-properly) ended up bending the pulley itself. I got it back to pretty round using my hammer and drift, but I'd really like it if I could find a new one that would fit. I don't think diameter makes much difference, since it's just the idler, but width and the bearing inner diameter are the big ones.

EDIT--about the EDIC. I've already sourced the EDIC relay, and the wiring pigtails for the relay and the EDIC. Coupled with my 3B manual, I'll get the EDIC running. I can already control it using jumper wires. Next step will be to wire it in using the EDIC relay.

Dan
 
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