Builds Here we go (FJ-40 getting a 3B/Turbo/H55f)... (2 Viewers)

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I see I'm not the only one that writes the date and miles on my oil filter.
 
Were the valve clearances still good before you pulled the head?
 
Were the valve clearances still good before you pulled the head?

Didn't check them. But it sounded good to me (not that it's scientific, but it's something)

It's a serious pain to adjust the valves hot with the turbo in the way. But I'll reset them when I reinstall the rocker train.

Did you verify the torque on the head bolts after the turbo install?

No. The turbo was installed by the PO in Australia quite some time before we bought the engine. They are the same ones who put in the aftermarket HG.

Dan
 
Do you still need to re-torque the bolts on the post 94 B series motors.
Mine have the funny star shaped bolts and I have been told that these are streach bolts.
They have the torque setting +90 +90 on a tappit cover lable.

Must these also be re-torqued???
G
 
Do you still need to re-torque the bolts on the post 94 B series motors.
Mine have the funny star shaped bolts and I have been told that these are streach bolts.
They have the torque setting +90 +90 on a tappit cover lable.

Must these also be re-torqued???
G

If your headbolts are indeed "torque-to-yield" (the final torquing is stretching the bolt) then they should not need to be retorqued. TTY bolts should also not be reused.

BTW, I know nothing about B series engines, so someone else can confirm whether the B series uses TTY bolts.
 
Just a quick update.

I figured out what was up with the IP.

The fuel deliver valve nozzle holders got overtorqued at some point. Which caused them to do all sorts of funky stuff, including the myserious leak from the IP.

So that's good.

But something still isn't right. It drives OK, but still feels and sounds like it's missing a bit.

Here's a video of what it's doing.
[yt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxDtrme3-ok[/yt]

It idles beautifully. It makes OK power, but not like it should. EGTs are about right, and it makes a lot of white smoke on acceleration.

Any ideas? I still haven't done a compression test, so that is the next step for me, but it's just perplexing.

Dan
 
I'm no mechanic but isn't white smoke steam?

Hope not.
 
White or blueish ... White blueish is oil ... Black is fuel most of the time

Sent from outer space via my mind
 
White or blueish ... White blueish is oil ... Black is fuel most of the time

Sent from outer space via my mind

Looks like oil smoke to me too.

But not sure what's causing it. The head has new valve seals, so I'm afraid we may have a problem with rings somewhere, other than the fact that it otherwise feels great. I'm not hearing any real blowby from the crankcase breather.

Will have to buy a compression tester as soon as I get back to see what that tells me.

Dan
 
Perplexing still.

Compression Numbers:

1--380
2--355
3--345
4--350

So, not awful, but will maybe need attention someday sooner or later. Those are cold numbers, so I may try and test it after getting the truck nice and toasty this week.

After doing the test, I put the glow plugs back in and started it right up. No smoke this time (other than the normal startup smoke), but it still feels like it's "missing" under load. It sounds like an exhaust leak too. I'm going to be putting the other turbo back on it this week, so I'll check for leaking exhaust manifold stuff (the head was machined, new Toyota gasket, and the manifold was good before it was ceramic coated), but I'm wondering if the power pulses of one cylinder not going through the turbo could cause this? Seems like the turbo can't spool and unspool fast enough to really effect the intake air, but it's my current theory?

Dan
 
those numbers are way low ... did you end up with a thicker head gasket?
i can't remember, have you had the pump off recently?
 
those numbers are way low ... did you end up with a thicker head gasket?
i can't remember, have you had the pump off recently?

I think the numbers are skewed a bit low because I just hand tightened the adapter for the compression tester instead of tightening it with a wrench. Wouldn't surprise me at all if it was leaking a little bit because of that (but it would have been leaking uniformly across all 4 cylinders).

Head gasket is the same thickness (I think--it mic'ed out to the same as the aftermarket one that came off), but the head was milled a little, so if anything it should have higher compression.

I came home and grabbed the wrench I need to tighten the compression testing adapter, so I will drive back to the 40 this afternoon to try it again.

I had the IP off when we cleaned up the engine. Just replaced the diaphragm, and ran it. It ran great for about 5000 miles, and then the HG failed. I haven't pulled the IP off, just adjusted the delivery valve nozzle holders torque. All 4 lines are pumping out quite a bit of fuel, at least at idle (of course, it's at idle that it has no problems at all--so it probably doesn't mean anything).

Dan
 
OK, so a quick update.....

(without any pictures of the carnage).

Turns out the bottom end had some ring issues and serious blowzy. So, we decided to rebuild the engine. During the rebuild, we found a cracked main bearing cap, among other things.

So, after sourcing a lot of parts, it's finally rebuilt and back on the road.

Just about 250 miles now since rebuild, and the engine is still tight and running hotter than I'd like, but very nice. No smoke, starts right up in the morning, and plenty of power and boost.

Dad and I are actually driving it and his stock '78 FJ-40 up to Colorado right now (see, that's how I'm breaking in the engine, with a road trip!), but last night we stopped in Santa Fe to have dinner with Chamba, and of course had to line up the three cruisers for some beauty shots.

View attachment 788015

View attachment 788016

Very happy to have it back on the road. Now, it appears that something (or someone) buggered the PS pump by running the engine before filling the PS pump up. Not real happy with the shop that Dad hired to check everything over before he turned the key for the first time (because he was trying to get it running before I made it down) for not catching the empty PS pump. Now it growls pretty badly.

But otherwise, doing real well. 10-15 degrees hotter than normal yesterday morning (after only 10 miles), last night when we pulled into the motel it was running at almost normal coolant temps (after 250 miles). Pretty cool seeing the engine break itself in nearly in real time!

Dan
 
Nice work! Glad to hear its back on the road. Bummer about the pump. If your in Denver anytime soon come stop by. I really want to see your 40.

I was just about to ring you! Are you around say, the week after next? And, luck was on our side, put more (different, full synthetic Dex/Merc ATF) fluid in the PS pump, and the groan went away!


Man.... Trials and tribulations Dan. Glad that you as dad got it squared away. Time to drive her!!

Have been driving her a lot!

So, why are the diesels so cool?

Here's why: we filled up both trucks (this one, and Dad's '78 FJ-40, stock as can be) at the same gas station, and then headed north. Since we travelled together, both trucks were at the same speed. They literally didn't do a single U-turn in one truck that the other didn't also do. ....yet this morning when we filled them up....

Diesel.
Diesel Gauge.jpg

Gas.
Gas Gauge.jpg

Now, the '78 has a smaller gas tank, and the pumps may have different shutoff points, but still--that's amazing.

Anyway, I'm back home in CO, with both cruisers in the driveway and we're set up for the '40's Only Run tomorrow.:steer::steer:

Dan

Diesel Gauge.jpg


Gas Gauge.jpg
 
Very cool I tried to meet up with chamba last week while I was out there. I put a turbo on my 3b the day before I left for Montana/Colorado drove great the whole 5000 mile trip but looks like I need a head gasket as well. It developed a very small external coolant leak at the back of the head.
 
[QUO
Last three...

The original was gusetted a bit, so I did the same. I'll do a little more before it's all done (I think I'll weld some 1/8"x1/2" strap along the top of the bracket to stiffen it a bit side to side)

I need to buy a 10x1.25mm tap tomorrow, that's why the holes are only pilot sized. They are lined up correctly though, so it should be real quick work once I get a tap in there.

View attachment 327272
View attachment 327273
View attachment 327274

I also have to weld on the tab for the alternator bracket. I went back to the non-PS alternator adjusting bracket, and it clears the PS pump. I don't know why the early model PS alternator adjusting bracket is so tall, but it is.

I might also cut out a hole in the plate next to the PS pump. The original bracket had a window in it there, and not that the weight savings would be that big of a deal, but every little bit helps. Any reason I shouldn't cut a window into the large plate?

As soon as I finish this bracket (it's 99% done now) then I'm back to rust repair...

Dan
View attachment 327272View attachment 327273View attachment 327274
Well, life is a bit nuts around here at the moment. But....

Here's a bit on the PS pump deal....

I got a PS setup, minus a pump from Radd Cruisers. It came from an October 82 to November 84 truck, from what I have gathered. That means that it has a 44443-60040 bracket that bolts to the engine.

These year trucks used the 44320-60080 pump. This pump is now manufacturer discontinued, which means that it is very much not available. However, the later BJ series trucks used the 44320-60090 pump. The 60090 pump is still available from Toyota (roughly $330 IIRC), and it is also used on the FJ-62 (which is why it is available).

So, taking a gamble (as it were) we bought a 44320-60090 pump. Long story short: the newer (November 84-November 85) pump requires the newer bracket (44443-60060), and will certainly not work with the 44443-60040 bracket.

Here's some pictures to show why... They speak for themselves...

This means that I'll either be looking for the later model bracket, or just fabricate one myself. Easy enough to do, and the hard part is the pump (because it needs to have the hose connections on the right side)
View attachment 318423View attachment 318424View attachment 318425

TE="DanS HJ-45, post: 4373742, member: 22822"]Well, life is a bit nuts around here at the moment. But....

Here's a bit on the PS pump deal....

I got a PS setup, minus a pump from Radd Cruisers. It came from an October 82 to November 84 truck, from what I have gathered. That means that it has a 44443-60040 bracket that bolts to the engine.

These year trucks used the 44320-60080 pump. This pump is now manufacturer discontinued, which means that it is very much not available. However, the later BJ series trucks used the 44320-60090 pump. The 60090 pump is still available from Toyota (roughly $330 IIRC), and it is also used on the FJ-62 (which is why it is available).

So, taking a gamble (as it were) we bought a 44320-60090 pump. Long story short: the newer (November 84-November 85) pump requires the newer bracket (44443-60060), and will certainly not work with the 44443-60040 bracket.

Here's some pictures to show why... They speak for themselves...

This means that I'll either be looking for the later model bracket, or just fabricate one myself. Easy enough to do, and the hard part is the pump (because it needs to have the hose connections on the right side)
View attachment 318423View attachment 318424View attachment 318425[/QUOTE]
Well, life is a bit nuts around here at the moment. But....

Here's a bit on the PS pump deal....

I got a PS setup, minus a pump from Radd Cruisers. It came from an October 82 to November 84 truck, from what I have gathered. That means that it has a 44443-60040 bracket that bolts to the engine.

These year trucks used the 44320-60080 pump. This pump is now manufacturer discontinued, which means that it is very much not available. However, the later BJ series trucks used the 44320-60090 pump. The 60090 pump is still available from Toyota (roughly $330 IIRC), and it is also used on the FJ-62 (which is why it is available).

So, taking a gamble (as it were) we bought a 44320-60090 pump. Long story short: the newer (November 84-November 85) pump requires the newer bracket (44443-60060), and will certainly not work with the 44443-60040 bracket.

Here's some pictures to show why... They speak for themselves...

This means that I'll either be looking for the later model bracket, or just fabricate one myself. Easy enough to do, and the hard part is the pump (because it needs to have the hose connections on the right side)
View attachment 318423View attachment 318424View attachment 318425



Hi, I'm looking for the bracket pump 44443-60040
pulley crankshaf 13477-60030
Toyota Land Cruiser Bj 40
you can help?
 
Hi, I'm looking for the bracket pump 44443-60040

Maybe. I'm not sure what we did with it, since it didn't work. But we might still have it on a shelf in the shop.


pulley crankshaf 13477-60030
Toyota Land Cruiser Bj 40
you can help?

I would try normal part sources for that. Start with a cruiser junkyard, or see if @beno could get you one.

Dan
 

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