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Help! Need Rear Rotors for '97

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Scamper, Jun 8, 2003.

  1. Scamper

    Scamper

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    Can anyone tell me the best place to get either OEM or aftermarket rear rotors for a '97 CE (if that makes any difference)? I'd like to have them in the next couple of days since we're planning a trip this coming weekend with camper in tow...

    Also, oddly, the reason I need these now is that the rear pads wore out before the fronts did with almost no warning (no sooner did they start making noise then they were galled)--I've never had this happen on any other vehicle I've owned. Is this something unique to the LCs or should I be looking at something as the culprit? All calipers seem to be in good shape with freely moving pins and pistons...

    TIA,

    Tom
     
  2. moralien

    moralien

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    Scamper,
    Why not get them from C Dan?

    I'm sure he's got em and it should not take that long to ship...
    As far as aftermarket goes, I'm not totally convinced. I run some DBA's but for the money I would just have gone back to OEM's and had them cryo treated.
     
  3. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    Nick , how much do I owe you? 8)

    Tom, I should have some in stock. PM me if you wish and we can discuss.

    As far as rear before front: Are you lifted? I have not seen a rear before front unless the vehicle has been lifted and the LSVP was adjusted a bit on the tight side. Unless maybe there is a problem with yours(rare). You haven't run over anything that may have bent the rod maybe?
    IIRC Beowulf just did his rears and he was thinking he put too much LSVP in. I believe he re-adjusted his valve mounting.

    Dan. :beer:
     
  4. Scamper

    Scamper

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    Hey Dan--I'll PM you to work this out.

    Have not had the truck lifted. I'll check the LSVP, but don't know of any reason it would be out of whack like that. I was just thinking that from now on, I'll be replacing both the front and rears at the same time, no matter what. Usually, I would replace the front, then do the rears in about another 10-15K. I had just done the fronts about two weeks ago, and there was still a bit of pad left on them, so I didn't even bother looking at the rears. Laziness don't pay...

    Tom
     
  5. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    When did you last look at/ do the rears?

     I find that I get almost 3 to 1 front to rear(that is until I went to the 100 ft pads)
     
  6. Scamper

    Scamper

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    Don't know exactly...I'd say about 30K ago, but don't keep accurate track of that sort of thing since I do it myself and don't save the receipts.

    This time round, I started to hear the fronts chirping and so bought new pads for all four, expecting not to need to use the rears for a while. After a while (about a week), started to hear noises (I thought they were coming from the front; wife thought from the rear), so I pulled the fronts this weekend to find they were in fine condition. So today I pulled the rears and lo and behold, there was nothing left of them, and both rotors had been galled on one surface (strangely, it was the PS side of the rotor in each case). So I've slapped some new pads on to hold me over until I can get new rotors and pads.

    Tom
     
  7. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Tom,
    My OEM 80 series rear pads were chirping at 16k miles. This was WAY sooner than I expected. Two problems that I saw when I pulled them and replaced with new OEM 80 series pads. First, they were wearing unevenly. I don't remember which pad, but one was wearing much faster than the other one both DS and PS. Second, I did a poor job setting the depth of the tell-tell when I replaced them the first time. So they were not worn out but, at best, they would have lasted 4k more miles so I replaced them.

    My guess is that I lowered the LSPV too much when I did the lift (OME 50mm) about 20 months ago. I raised it and did some testing in a gravel parking lot. The fronts lock first now... don't know if the rears locked before the readjust.

    -B-
     
  8. tiorio

    tiorio

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    Does anyone even bother resurfacing their rotors anymore? The brakes wear so fast on their own I found I only get 2-3k more miles if I machine the rotors, not worth the hassle!

    Only me?
     
  9. Scamper

    Scamper

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    B- Since I haven't lifted the truck, I don't think I have a problem with the LSVP, but I plan to check it out when I replace the rotors later this week.

    I've never tried to "adjust" the tells on brake pads...the fronts are built in and the rear tells are part of the hardware kit. What do you do, just bend them a tad one way or the other? I'd rather have them start chiping earlier than later...

    Tiorio- I've never resurfaced my rotors--just replace them when they're "gone" or damaged. Others have described the problem that once you resurface these rotors, they are quick to warp. I've also noticed in the BGB that there's not much extra metal on our rotors anyway, so you'd likely not be getting more than one or two resurfacings on them anyway...makes me long for the old days.

    Tom
     
  10. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Todd,
    Many people have reported rotor warpage soon after resurfacing their front rotors on the 80 series. The concensus seems to be that turning the rotors is not a good idea for our trucks. I have heard a few guys that were original owners and were diligent about changing pads; these guys were getting 100k miles out of their rotors. Not bad at all.

    Wrench may be able to give us some insight as he once worked for a company that turned rotors. I'm sure he has seen a lot and maybe he developed some theories.

    -B-
     
  11. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    My first set went just under 100k. I never surfaced them. They were still a bit above minimum thickness when I changed them(in fact one of them lives on in another 80 :G ). I changed them when I went to the 100 pads. I would have left them on if I had stayed with the stock pads.
     
  12. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr SILVER Star

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    Since we're on the subject of rear brakes, anyone have any tips on replacing the rear drums/shoes on the 1992s or is it pretty straight forward?

    -H-
     
  13. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    -H-

    About like a 60/62. Pretty straight forward.

    Do take your tie off first 8)


    Shoes, 04495-60060 list $69.40 (new, not re-lined).
    Drums, 42431-60070 list $130.03 each.
     
  14. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    Henderson Wheel here in Boise has 80 series rotors for $35 each. I'm running them on my '93.

    800-248-3444
     
  15. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr SILVER Star

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    I'm willing to bet a 4-pack of Boddingtons those ain't OEM!

    :eek:

    -H-
     
  16. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    I'll make that two :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
    :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
     
  17. Photo_Cruiser

    Photo_Cruiser

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    Hey Beo..

    You recall what was 'too much' on your lspv. I just put on the 50 mm lift, and lowered about 7 to 10 mm. haven't had a chance to test in the gravel yet though.

    Jeff
     
  18. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Jeff,

    I'm afraid that I'm not going to be much help to you. To make a long story short, I changed the LSPV when the OME springs were installed. My plan was to drop it .25" but, unknown to me, my reference point was marked on the bracket so when I loosened and moved the bracket the reference mark was moved. Dumb.  So, without much light, I took a guess of where it should be.

    Fast forward 20 months to about 3 weeks ago and my rear pads were worn prematurely. Replaced the pads in the daytime and slipped under to see that the original LSPV location could be determined from wear patterns. I moved it what seemed like .25" (or as close as I could get) lower than the factory setting.

    -B-
     
  19. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    Uh . . . if you're replying to me, only the dealer sells OEM rotors. Henderson ain't no Toyota dealer.
     
  20. txlandc

    txlandc

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    Scamper,
    Just had an amazingly similar occurance last week. It was my passenger side, inside brake pad that wore down to the metal. Whomever had done the previous pad replacement did not reinstall the wear indicators therefore there was no forewarning. Anyway, by the time I got to the pad replacement the damage was done. You may want to try http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com/. You get great prices on OEM parts if you're out of state (Indianapolis I believe) and they ship free on orders over $100.