HELP! exhaust manifold on Chevy 350 TBI

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by truckosaurus, Jul 17, 2005.

  1. truckosaurus

    truckosaurus

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
    My FJ60 has a 5.7l V8 TBI from a 1990 Chevy K1500. Long story short. I'm trying to remove the drivers side exhaust manifold. But the forward most bolt is wedged behind and anchors a bracket that holds the back of the power steering/alternator. I can't figure out how to remove it without removing the entire power steering/alternator assembly. Which looks it requires removal of the power steering pulley to get at all the mounting bolts. I tried removing the pully with a vise grip and allen wrench but it's not moving. I understand it's a pressure fiting and may require a gear puller. I don't want to remove the power steering but I just can't see any other way.

    What is the solution?

    Short story long: While replacing the sealer ring between the manifold and exhaust pipe the mechanic managed to crack one of the flange corners off of the exhaust manifold leaving a hole in the exhaust. I decided I didn't want them working on my TLC any more so I found a new center dump manifold. But in the process of trying to remove the old manifold there's one bolt that is the fartest forward that I just can't figure out how to remove without removing the entire bracket that holds the alternator and power steering unit. This forward manifold bolt also holds a bracket that holds the back of the power steering and alternator. The bracket would come right off but at the bottom of the power steering unit there's bolt holding the lowest point of the bracket. That bolt is wedged in there and hits the engine before it's completely out. The mounting bolt holding the front cast bracket is behind the power steering unit. The mounting bolts to the power steering unit are behind the pully and I can't get at them without removing the pulley. I tried unscrewing the pully but it won't budge - I don't want to break it out since I understand it's a pressure fitting. Dont' want to go through all this if there's an easier way.

    Any help greatly appreciated. Thanx.
  2. Tinker

    Tinker

    Messages:
    2,847
    Location:
    Larkspur, CO
    You're going to spend more time & risk more damage by looking for the "quick easy" way. Take the time to take everything apart that's in the way.

    What you have is most likely unique to your rig so no one else will have direct experience.
  3. TheGr8Doughboy

    TheGr8Doughboy

    Messages:
    744
    Location:
    Rockville, MD
    I have an '81 350 carbed with less somg stuff than yours but basically the same.

    Power steering pulley is hanging on TIGHT. I just tried to rescue mine when the pump failed and with an impact wrench at 250 ft/lbs on the special puller (took it to a shop) it wouldn't budge. There is enough room behind the pulley to remove the mounting bolts and take the pump off without taking the pulley off.

    Do it the right way the first time... sure it may take longer once but better than doing the the shorter way twice... boy am I learning that lesson the hard way... you'd think I'd learn...

    Chris
  4. truckosaurus

    truckosaurus

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Thanks for the feedback. I have no smog pump and am CA smog legal- a reason why this engine was chosen for the conversion. So extra emissions gear isn't an issue.

    I was eyeing the bolts behind the pully and though "just maybe I could fit in a wrench in there without taking the pully off." But wanted to check before I made a major mistake with that. I'm worried about getting them back in with such a tight space to line them up in. Can just barely get my fingers in there. I'll give it a try.

    Here is a reference photo. You see the black bracket behing the power steering and on top of the manifold.



    [​IMG]
  5. truckosaurus

    truckosaurus

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
    So, I'm trying to get those front 2 mounting bolts out of the power steering unit that are hidden behind the pulley. The top one came loose but is too long to take completely out- but it's loose enough. But one is recessed enough to make it extremely difficult, if not impossible to reach without removing the pulley. If there were holes in the pully big enough for a socket wrench then this would be no problem. But I guess that would be too much to ask for.

    So I'm stuck again. Going out to look for a low profile/angled wrench that might fit but there's barely any room to turn it either. If it get's stripped I'm screwed.

    Next step is going to the library to see if I can find a decent repair manual.

    Where else can I locate info about my particular motor?
  6. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

    Messages:
    11,105
    Location:
    Knee deep in hookers and gin
    You can pull the pulley with a power steering pump pulley puller. It is one of those special tools you might never need again, but it really not that expensive. You will also need the part of the tool that re-installs the pulley. You might be able to get one from an auto part store that "lends" tools.
  7. truckosaurus

    truckosaurus

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA

    This is the stage I'm at now. Just picked up a generic power steering pulley puller. The reinstall tool was only for Ford pulleys. Will I be able to use the same tool for re-install? I guess if it threads into the spindle somehow it'll work for putting it back on.

    Now my question is how does this work? Just put it on and start cranking and it will pop off? Or do I need to loosen something first? What is the allen nut in the middle of the pully for? My manual says nothing about removing the center allen piece. I tried already and it's on tight. Using a vise grip on the pulley- there were marks on there from before so I suspected that might be the way to go. But it wouldn't budge.

    I'll see how the pulley removal works.
  8. truckosaurus

    truckosaurus

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Got the pully off!!

    Now do I need a special tool for re-install?

    Also some of the threads on the bolts that hold the exhaust manifold looked melted. I'm wondering if I should replace those with fresh bolts that can take hi temps. Any ideas?
  9. TheGr8Doughboy

    TheGr8Doughboy

    Messages:
    744
    Location:
    Rockville, MD
    When I bought my new pulley it had a bolt that threaded down in so you could tighten the pulley down with a nut. But I'm running a regular belt and it looks like you have a serpintine belt... or maybe it's past my bedtime...

    Chris
  10. truckosaurus

    truckosaurus

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Serpentine belt. Also figured out the center thread deal. I should have just rented the puller/installer tool from Kragen first. I went to pep boys first and bought the puller but then had no way of getting the pully back on.

    So now the deal is that the new manifold won't go on. There are four large square bumps on the top of it that run into the edge of the valve cover. It leaves an 1/8" gap curently. I'm thinking I may have to grind it down. I'll practice on the old manifold to see if it's possible. Lots of cast iron to grind down. Or just use both gaskets for now. It's a b.
  11. truckosaurus

    truckosaurus

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
    all back together. Had to grind off a bit of material from the manifold to get it to fit. The Makita grinder did wonders and went right through it like buttuh.

    That back side bracket was a major problem. Even after I got the pully off. Was dreading taking off the pully but with the right tool it was no problem. But the bracket still gave huge troubles. I'd like to have a word with whoever designed that piece of cr_p.

    Now just have to fire it up in the morning :bounce2:

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