Head Gasket? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sevi
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not sure which motor you have, but I will guess 1FZFE. Its hard to tell from your post, was that oil floating on top of the coolant, or is that the coolant itself? It could be just very old coolant that is discolored. Aparently oil cooler failure on the 1Fz-Fe is rare.
- Thread starter
- #3
Yes, Its the 1FZFE. The oil doesn't appear to be flowing in it. I also think that it is just really old coolant. The previous owner barely used the vehicle, but didn't do much as far as maintenance goes. I hope that it is just corrosion, and that I can flush it out.
now that you mentioned it didn't get driven much - that is likely rust in your cooling system. you need to flush ASAP.
And, call Blackstone and have them send you the bottle to return with a little oil sample. Don't fart around wondering if you've got a head gasket issue, and all this other speculation you hear about on the forum, get the facts quickly as well as a baseline on your engine.
Mine looked like that, and from what I could tell, it was a crap ton of Bar's Leak.
Flush and refill, do a Blackstone, as suggested above.
Flush and refill, do a Blackstone, as suggested above.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for the suggestion. I will get it checked. I seriously doubt that it is the head gasket since i have none of the signs. No visible leaks, no coolant in the oil, no white smoke, no loss of power nothing overheating. I really think it was just neglect to keep up with coolant flushes. (I ordered new radiator hoses and waiting for it to warm up a bit before i flush the radiator. Not using the vehicle in the meantime)
I like your confidence. I post the following not directed to you in particular but to add to the flow of experience. IMO, head gaskets are when and not if. Additionally, it's my belief that many 80s that are sold today have head gaskets that are in some stage of failure. I am particularly beware when an ad on Craigslist (or elsewhere) says "new radiator." In fact, unless the market is just too hot and you can't pass it up, (and this is my advice to any prospective/newbie scanning the forum) I'd put a deposit down on any 80 and have a rush oil sample sent in. If the analysis reports a strong engine (measuring many things besides antifreeze/potassium in the oil) I'd pay top dollar. I got lucky on my rig; it had a "weeping radiator" when I got it and oil analysis reported a mild head gasket leak. I did the HG myself and have a great engine now: no oil burn, great fuel mileage and consistently good Blackstone reports. So when I head off to Baja, or have to sit in 3.5 hours idling at a steamy hot border crossing, I know what I'm sitting behind. My $0.02, of course.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for your input. Unfortunately I did the oil change recently, when I got the truck (maybe 2 weeks 300 mi. ago). How long should i wait to test the oil? I bought the truck knowing that I would have to do the head gasket some day. Should I do it as a preventative measure?
You will get as many opinions here as there are participants in this thread. You want to pick up a coolant analyzer from the local parts store and see if exhaust gases are detected in the coolant as well as sending some oil to blackstone labs. Also, inspect the outside of the engine for any visible leaks from the HG
If it's not your DD and you prefer solid insurance then do the HG now. There is no sure way about it due to so many variables that none of us have knowledge of. Some 1fz's blew HG inside the factory warranty period and many have 300k plus on the original HG.
One thing is for sure, you bought a top knotch piece of equipment that is worth your time and efforts.
If it's not your DD and you prefer solid insurance then do the HG now. There is no sure way about it due to so many variables that none of us have knowledge of. Some 1fz's blew HG inside the factory warranty period and many have 300k plus on the original HG.
One thing is for sure, you bought a top knotch piece of equipment that is worth your time and efforts.
- Thread starter
- #12
It is not my DD. Although, I bought it with intent of introducing it into the rotation. It will get more use in the summer. I will drain the coolant and analyze it like you suggested and get the oil analyzed as well. There are no visible leaks on the engine. It actually looks incredibly good, which is what made me want to buy the truck in the first place. I think I will start preparing to do the head gasket as a precaution.
I didn't do the coolant test because my HG blew in a fashion that was undeniable but I believe this test is done while the engine is running.
Use an OEM gasket kit only. You may also consider using ARP head studs as opposed to the TTY bolts for two reasons: The studs are cheaper and secondly, I found that is nearly impossible to get the bolt hole threads in the block completely clean so they don't affect bolt torque. The studs will assure very good and even clamping force. There are many good threads here on Mud you can read before you start the HG job.
Well, the HG may have been done already. Look at the half moons on the front of the head. If you see black sealant there's a chance it has been done once already. Grey would have been original. With the 1FZ when you consider the length of that block and that lightweight aluminum head on top of it, there's going to be movement. Period. The reason I suggest an oil analysis (and Blackstone is not the only one) is that you can go online and get any of your questions answered, get a free sample kit, and then send it in for less money than you'll spend driving down to NAPA to buy one of these exhaust gases kits. For less money you'll get a real baseline on your engine on a whole range of variables. There are opinions and there is science. As "El Skeltor" said in Nacho Libre, "I believe in science."
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- #15
I will definitely get an oil analysis and coolant analysis. I'll check tomorrow what color the gasket is, but i'm 99% sure that its original. The previous owner has not done anything other than oil changes. Are aftermarket eBay head gasket kits not the way to go, should i ONLY look for OEM? I'll definitely get the ARP head studs.
OEM, of course. Call CDan or Beno. Make sure you've got the FSM first of all. ARP might not be necessary. There are specs in the FSM, and I'd go OEM head bolts if it were me. (It's not the color of the HG, but the flexible gasket material around the access covers to the cam bolts on the head.) Don't worry bout that for now. The learning curve is good.
