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head gasket

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by jzilla, Mar 10, 2003.

  1. jzilla

    jzilla

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    Has anyone changed a head gasket on a 3B?
    Mine really needs to be done. I was wondering if anyone had any tips or suggestions. Anything to watch out for? While the head is off should I do anything else?
    Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
    I have an 81 BJ60.
     
  2. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I've changed the head gasket on both my BJ60's. Why are you changing the head gasket? Is it leaking or??? You will undoubtedly notice that the precombustion chambers ALL have nasty looking cracks in them. You could replace them if you want, I did not because they are over $200 a piece!! If the precombustion chambers fall out REPLACE THEM. A dropped precombustion chamber means a rebuild as a minimum and a ruined block in the worst case. The big thing I'd be careful for is when you remove the push rods don't pull the lifters out of their bores otherwise you'll be taking the pushrod cover off as well. Make sure you have the proper torque settings and pattern so you don't crack the head. Tighten the head down a little at a time following the prescribed pattern. The previous owner of my '84 did not and the head cracked after I got it (that's why I replaced the head gaskets)!! My '82 now has a high nickel head with stainless precombustion chambers which are more resistant to cracking and the '84 has the '82 head.
     
  3. jzilla

    jzilla

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    Thanks for the info.
    It is leaking oil. A friend suggested that I get a valve grind done while the head is off, is this a good idea?
    thanks again
     
  4. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    Are you sure it's the head gasket that's leaking oil? If there is oil on the side of the engine it's likely from the lifter/pushrod cover, these are notoriously leaky! I've NEVER had a head gasket leak oil and I've put 300,000 km on the 'Cruiser. I have however resealed and tightened down the lifter/pushrod cover countless times. Or are the valve guides leaking oil? Are you blowing blue? Is the compression OK? If the head is off a valve job with new seals wouldn't hurt. The seals are not cheap though. Avoid surfacing the head or the block as there is little clearance on the block and surfacing the head will affect the precombustion chambers (believe me you DON'T want to mess with them).
    If you decide in the end to remove the head make SURE you follow the prescribed pattern for removing and tightening the head. A cracked head is a $2000.00 bill!
     
  5. jzilla

    jzilla

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    Thanks again!
    Changed side cover gasket and cleaned everything up but that was not it, still oil coming from head gasket on exhaust manifold side.
    No blue smoke, not sure about compression.
    Sorry, I'm pretty new to this, where exactly are valve guides?
    Just so you Know have 360000 km.
    Thanks again
     
  6. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I'd find it hard to believe but I guess anything is possible. Have you looked at the exhaust gasket? Remember diesel exhaust is BLACK and will leave soot wherever it gets in contact with. A small leak at the exhaust gasket does not mean it's going to be excessively noisy. One exhaust manifold in my garage is worn at the ends and was leaking when I pulled it off. You might want to check that when you pull the head and surface the exhaust manifold if there are signs of possible leakage.
    The valve guides are visible when you remove the rocker cover. The guides keep the valves aligned with their ports and the seals keep engine oil from flowing down the valves and into the cylinder.
    I've got a '82 BJ60 with 330,000 kM which will be getting turbocharged this month and a '84 BJ60 with 380,000kM
     
  7. jzilla

    jzilla

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    I actually changed the exhaust gasket when I did the side cover.
    There is no soot just oil.
    Where did you get the info for torque specs. and order of tightening/loosening bolts?
    I have max ellerys shop manual, is this ok?
    Thanks, john
     
  8. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    If you don't have a manual for the B series engine specifically THROW IT AWAY and use this manual it's a free download!!! http://landcruiser.free.fr/mans/ben It has EVERYTHING you need concerning the 3B engine.
    I used to have a Haynes manual and it did not have ANYTHING in common with my truck so I splurged and now have the OEM Toyota chassis and engine manuals as well as the 5 speed tranny supplement!
    I just picked up my Turbo kit :D
     
  9. darkman

    darkman

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    Hey Cruizer_guy:

    Is that an AXT Turbo you are installing? I'm planning on one for my 3B ... I would be very interested in knowing how it turns out.

    Jzilla:

    I understand how you feel .. I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to my truck as well; however, you should take into consideration how bad your leak is. If it is not significant; you might not have to do anything immediately. If the engine is running well, compression and oil pressure are good, and its not using a litre/week ... maybe you can live with it.

    If the head gasket was really bad you would probably find that the engine would have coolent control problems as well.

    Just a thought

    Good luck
     
  10. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    Yes, it is an AXT kit. I've heard lots of good things about it from several people before I bought one. I've also read up on turbocharging and from what I've read it and comparing it to the kit it looks like they've done it right! It is water cooled and supplied with oil from the engine so it is properly looked after in that area.
    It'll be going on to the truck later this month or early next month. If you're looking for one Cory, the distributor has one available now! Otherwise you'll need to wait till there is a group of people who want one.
     
  11. jzilla

    jzilla

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    Thanks guys!
    Tried that address for the manual But keep getting told it is not found. Is that the exact address? Thanks.
     
  12. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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  13. jzilla

    jzilla

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    Thank you! It worked this time.
    The stuff is great!
    When you changed your head gaskets did you run into any problems such as broken bolts?
    When I changed exhaust gasket I had some problems.
    I put it back with new bolts and anti seize so I figure that should go smoothly.
     
  14. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    You will not have any problems with broken bolts as none of the bolts see the combustion process. The web site is a scan of the entire OEM Toyota engine manual. It's actually a later edition than the one I have in print! I downloaded it as well.
     
  15. jzilla

    jzilla

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    Are you in canada?
    The prices for the head and combustion chambers are Can. dollars right?
    Is 2000 bucks just for the head and nothing else.
    just curious!
    thanks
     
  16. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I'm in Vancouver, B.C. area and yes the $2000 is for the high nickel head and the stainless precombustion chambers. It does NOT include valves, valve seals, rocker shaft etc. etc. If you are nervous about the precombustion chambers then I'd go with the new head as four precombustion chambers would cost $800 and a new better head is only another $1200 more and is better. If you want I'll give you the contact for the head.
    How are things going with replacing the head gasket? It should be something that can be completed in a day.
     
  17. jzilla

    jzilla

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    Isn't that funny, I live in north vancouver!
    What can you tell me about the nickel head? Is it much better than toyota head?
    Thanks john
    my email is johnzilla80@yahoo.com
     
  18. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    The basic difference between the nickel head and the standard head is the nickel head's resistance to cracking as well as the stainless precombustion chambers resistance to cracking.
     
  19. plan66

    plan66

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    Hey cruiser_guy, I recently bought an '80 BJ40. Unknown mileage but it seems to run great.
    What I'm wondering is if you aren't at all concerned about the engines bottom end. I know these are good engines, but a turbo on a 330000km engine?
    If it doesn't put too much burden on a higher mileage engine I may look into it for my truck. It has the smaller B engine though so it may not be the same, ie: oil cooling of the pistons.
    What do those turbo kits go for, if you don't mind me asking?
     
  20. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I tore apart a 3B engine with 300,000 km on it which had dropped a precombustion chamber. The entire bottom end was within factory specifications, not wear maximum but factory! In most cases it was in the middle of the factory minimum and factory maximum, not even close to wear maximum. The turbo does not put excessive additional stress on the bottom end. Bottom end stress is due mainly to engine speed primarily over revving. It's mostly the pistons and top end that take a beating due to higher temperatures hence an exhaust gas temperature gauge. The head is a new high nickel head so it is also well suited to the turbo application. I'll be rebuilding the failed engine as a spare so I'm not worried at all. The rebuild kit includes ALL pistons, ALL seals, ALL bearings, ALL gaskets and the cylinder liners so by the end the engine will essentially be a new engine! The B engine does NOT have the piston cooling and may be lacking other features as well. If I were you I would consider one of the 13B-T engines. It's essentially a factory turbocharged 3B with direct injection head.
    Basic turbo kit w/o install or gauges is about $3000 Canadian.