tubalubb
what do you mean by "put it back together"?
Sorry Vae, I think those photos were on the file that was lost. I'll keep looking for you.
tubb
tubb
H42 Transmission, Tcase, eBrake Rebuild in a '76 FJ40` (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Vae Victus
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Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #222
It helps! Thank you.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #223
Split the t case from tranny again. Used the splitter to get the bearing to come off the shaft again since it was too far in.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #224
I think I have the spacers on the output shaft figured out now.
Clearly the short one goes on the tranny output shaft first, before you marry the transfer case.
Then you marry the tcase,
then the first drive gear,
then the PTO gear or the LONG spacer,
then the bearing onto the outside of the case,
then the MEDIUM spacer,
then the shims, nut and tail cone.
Short spacer first
LONG spacer on left, MEDIUM spacer on right.
LONG spacer replaces PTO gear inside the case. MEDIUM spacer goes outside the case after the bearing.
Tap the bearing all the way down until it touches the PTO spacer or gear. The back of the outer bearing should be almost flush with the inside of the tcase as shown below.
(Before assembly, but spaced temporarily by putting the drive gear, LONG spacer and bearing in place.
Bearing location in relation to the transfer case.
(Note: I still need to check all this with final assembly, so this is not confirmed yet. I'm about 98% sure. Hopefully someone will verify this as I'm reassembling things).
Clearly the short one goes on the tranny output shaft first, before you marry the transfer case.
Then you marry the tcase,
then the first drive gear,
then the PTO gear or the LONG spacer,
then the bearing onto the outside of the case,
then the MEDIUM spacer,
then the shims, nut and tail cone.
Short spacer first
LONG spacer on left, MEDIUM spacer on right.
LONG spacer replaces PTO gear inside the case. MEDIUM spacer goes outside the case after the bearing.
Tap the bearing all the way down until it touches the PTO spacer or gear. The back of the outer bearing should be almost flush with the inside of the tcase as shown below.
(Before assembly, but spaced temporarily by putting the drive gear, LONG spacer and bearing in place.
Bearing location in relation to the transfer case.
(Note: I still need to check all this with final assembly, so this is not confirmed yet. I'm about 98% sure. Hopefully someone will verify this as I'm reassembling things).
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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- 11,207
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- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
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- www.tlcperformance.com
Looks correct to me.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #226
Good 'cause I'm thinking the same.
Long spacer inside
Bearing depth
Medium spacer outside
Long spacer inside
Bearing depth
Medium spacer outside
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,207
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Yep, you've got it now. 
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #228
Finally got near freezing so I could work on the tranny/tcase again. Kids ball games, work, and honey-dos been in the way as well.
I needed to put the 3 stake nuts on the shaft ends, but to do that, I needed to create a quick SST. I used a piece of angle iron attached to the companion flange. This rotated to sit against the 4WD Hi Low shaft and hold things in place.
Two positions the SST was used to hold the various shafts from moving while tightening the stake nuts with the 27mm socket.
Had I put on this companion flange stake nut before marrying the tcase to the tranny, I could have just rested the SST on the ground, but now the tranny was in the way. This worked fine though.
SST
Torqued the stake nut on the companion flange, and the output shaft both to 90 and 105 ft-lbs respectively.
I put on the eBrake backer plate, putting the short bolt on the upper left side, with thread lock on all 4 bolts and torqued to 21ft-lbs. this would have been a lot easier if I'd done it before rebuilding the eBrake guts, as the mechanism gets in your way of 1 of the nuts, making it tough to tighten. You must put the tcase into 4WD to have it hold properly.
EBrake backer. Note short bolt for upper left hole.
Chased the threads first
Top right was hard to tighten while assembled
I put the eBrake drum on the shaft, and put the washer/spacers back on and torqued the stake nut to 90 ft-lbs.
eBrake drum and nut
Staked the 3 nuts.
2 of the Staked nuts (I went back and staked them better after the photos)
Reattached the nose cone. Gasket and a thin coat of RTV. Torqued to 21 ft-lbs.
Nose Cone (Tail cone if you prefer)
And the side plate (forgot earlier to do so). Torqued to 21 ft-lbs.
I needed to put the 3 stake nuts on the shaft ends, but to do that, I needed to create a quick SST. I used a piece of angle iron attached to the companion flange. This rotated to sit against the 4WD Hi Low shaft and hold things in place.
Two positions the SST was used to hold the various shafts from moving while tightening the stake nuts with the 27mm socket.
Had I put on this companion flange stake nut before marrying the tcase to the tranny, I could have just rested the SST on the ground, but now the tranny was in the way. This worked fine though.
SST
Torqued the stake nut on the companion flange, and the output shaft both to 90 and 105 ft-lbs respectively.
I put on the eBrake backer plate, putting the short bolt on the upper left side, with thread lock on all 4 bolts and torqued to 21ft-lbs. this would have been a lot easier if I'd done it before rebuilding the eBrake guts, as the mechanism gets in your way of 1 of the nuts, making it tough to tighten. You must put the tcase into 4WD to have it hold properly.
EBrake backer. Note short bolt for upper left hole.
Chased the threads first
Top right was hard to tighten while assembled
I put the eBrake drum on the shaft, and put the washer/spacers back on and torqued the stake nut to 90 ft-lbs.
eBrake drum and nut
Staked the 3 nuts.
2 of the Staked nuts (I went back and staked them better after the photos)
Reattached the nose cone. Gasket and a thin coat of RTV. Torqued to 21 ft-lbs.
Nose Cone (Tail cone if you prefer)
And the side plate (forgot earlier to do so). Torqued to 21 ft-lbs.
Does this mean you are done! Well done and thank you for documenting. Crack a cold one and stare at your work!
simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
Just for sanity , I'd add the t-case savers to it before installing ....
Sarge
Sarge
Maybe this explains my insanity Sarge
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #232
Hmmm. Hadn't considered a case saver.
LostMarbles - you saying you don't like them?
I think there are differences of opinion regarding the case savers. I personally am running a nose cone ring and the top saver.
I think the main issue is, when you bind up the gears and over torque the case off-road, it typically splits at the bottom. A saver on the top or the nose cone (or both) wont provide structural rigidity where it is actually needed. There used to be a third case saver that, apparently, did help with the bottom-face of the case but I don't think anyone makes it anymore.
Since I'm running a v8 and put more power/torque through the system on a regular basis (or I will, if the damn thing ever gets out of the garage) I opted for the "better safe than sorry" approach. Depending on how seriously you tend to beat up your truck off road, it may be overkill.
I don't have any extra engine-power or any steeper driveshaft angles than when my BJ40 left the factory. (And I think it's fair to say that both these modifications can accelerate transmission wear.)
My transmission (gearbox and transfer) operates and feels just as good as it did back in 1981 when I bought my BJ40 (despite having travelled over 200,000kms since then).
I do all my oil changes myself (so I would notice it if it happened) but I have never noticed this oil transfer phenomenon occurring in my cruiser.
I've never run an equalising tube so I'm not going to start now.
PS. But that's not to say that I'm criticising those who run the equalising tube. I think there's a lot of good sense around fitting them and the only drawbacks I can think of are "non-OEM appearance" and "extra hassle when changing the oil".
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #235
I don't have any extra engine-power or any steeper driveshaft angles than when my BJ40 left the factory. (And I think it's fair to say that both these modifications can accelerate transmission wear.) My transmission (gearbox and transfer) operates and feels just as good as it did back in 1981 when I bought my BJ40 (despite having travelled over 200,000kms since then). I do all my oil changes myself (so I would notice it if it happened) but I have never noticed this oil transfer phenomenon occurring in my cruiser. I've never run an equalising tube so I'm not going to start now.
I did purchase one of shipmag's tranny to transfer hoses to run between the two (which reminds me, I guess I need to test fit that and decide if I'm going to use it), but I was not planning on using a reinforcing plate like Sarge and Rick are talking about. Stock 2F, and it'll live on road when I'm done with it.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #236
Getting closer to putting this back in place.
Awesome thread! Well done and thanks VV
shipmag
Hagler Technology LLC. Aka Shipmag
Have group buy 16 on order but waiting parts not sure when vender will have the rest of the fittings in. If interested pm me.
Thank you vae Victus for your thread.pics were great.I am putting mine back together now. Couldn't have done it without Mud.
Much thanks to @orangefj45 for a great rebuild kit for this project and his willingness to provide phone support for the process. Greatly appreciated, Georg.
