Builds GW Nugget's Family Haulin Lx450 build (2 Viewers)

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Self clearance. :hillbilly: Just a dust shield. :)
 
Awesome videos! That rig is too damn clean. You need to wheel with me, that will remedy your super clean look! Haha
 
Awesome videos! That rig is too damn clean. You need to wheel with me, that will remedy your super clean look! Haha
Im not one to stress over paint, but I do want to retain my cladding as long as possible to avoid all those holes.
I would like to go play in your backyard the Rubicon with you... someday hopefully soon.
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Have you tried driving on the road with the front sway bar removed completely? It might not be that bad.
Im so close to permanently removing it.
Im driving right now disconnected... meh... I'm on the fence... the only thing is I pull a trailer & would hate to have to make an emergency evasive maneuver without it while towing a trailer.

My new Slinky coils & Icon shocks are coming & I'm hoping with the firmer coils it will be better. I also have learnd the 91 & 92 front sway is thinner which would allow to leave it on. My sway bar does limit suspension travel & it does give a stiffer ride while connected.
 
Im not one to stress over paint, but I do want to retain my cladding as long as possible to avoid all those holes. I'm thinking at that point I might go to a wrap, you know the sticker kind of wrap... just thinking about it.
I would like to go play in your backyard the Rubicon with you... someday hopefully soon.
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After reading so many posts about dealing with the LX "holes" I think that I would weld a piece of sheet metal over the entire area.
Headed up to Gold Lake to meet lots of other cruiserheads this weekend! I'm stoked!
 
Sitting here at work trying to figure my options on what to do with my silly LX450 center console. I know... just replace it. Well, I need to explore all the free options 1st. What has the Lx450 owners done before me? I know fzj80 owners really don't like theirs but at this time a 80 console would be better than this. I can make something out of wood to slide in there...
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I know it is not free, but I love my tuffy box. Use it as a pattern (shave off some of the length so the back seats will fold closed) and make one out of wood.
 
The Redline Slinky coils came in. I got them installed that same day. The family went to the big city for groceries so it was perfect timing for some rig time. I ordered just the front set up of 75mm coils & Stage 1 shocks. The Icon shocks are not here yet but I do have some longer Doetsch Techs that are 28.75"ish long but the valving is to soft.
They do have a LH & RH side, the free height is 615mm & 600mm. The taller is the LH coil.
Below are my 851+25mm which is equal to 850s.
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Since they are so long it took a bit more doing to shoe horn them in. These are long ones...
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Now that they are in, it looks like they are setting higher then hoped for, but the coils are not touching yet. So there is hope they will settle down. In these pics there is an air gap where the should be touching or stacked.
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Right now they are at 24.5" & I'm hoping for 24" center hub to bottom of flare. Don't forget I have a 1" body lift, so minus 1" from my measurement. 24" would be a solid 3" of suspension lift.
 
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It has allways been said in my circle of friends, if one can clear the bottom of the body with the top of the tire... that's darn good flex. I'm very happy with my new Slinky coils, they push the shocks fully extended. I have gained 4" more downtravel at the tire from my OME L shocks.
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I'm now driving up curbs on purpose & blowing though 6" tall parking lot stops like they were 1" reflector bumps. These coils are the bomb & can't wait for the Icon shocks.
 
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Damn! Let's see it on flat ground. How do those springs ride?
 
Damn! Let's see it on flat ground. How do those springs ride?
Thanks for the compliment, I really dig your rig & what you have done with yours.
I have not taken a flat ground pic yet because it sits up higher in front, I'm still waiting for the coils to settle down.
As far as the ride it feels plush in straits & firm in corners, the dual rate coils are the way to go. The 160 rate on top is like a stock ride while the 260 rate on bottom is a welcomed firmer sporty feel from the softter 220 rate of the OME 851 I had.
 
I would put the front sway bar back on. Had mine off for a couple months because the axle mounts tore off. It's fine in town but it is pretty worrying whenever I have to slow down fast or from high speeds. I have to steer to keep it from leaning sometimes. Highways are awful, it is almost impossible to keep straight... Just my input.
 
Thanks for the compliment, I really dig your rig & what you have done with yours.
I have not taken a flat ground pic yet because it sits up higher in front, I'm still waiting for the coils to settle down.
As far as the ride it feels plush in straits & firm in corners, the dual rate coils are the way to go. The 160 rate on top is like a stock ride while the 260 rate on bottom is a welcomed firmer sporty feel from the softter 220 rate of the OME 851 I had.

Thanks. Mine had come a long ways. I'm leaning toward doing similar springs and shocks. Mine are getting a little tired these days.
 
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I would put the front sway bar back on. Had mine off for a couple months because the axle mounts tore off. It's fine in town but it is pretty worrying whenever I have to slow down fast or from high speeds. I have to steer to keep it from leaning sometimes. Highways are awful, it is almost impossible to keep straight... Just my input.
With all the changes I've done to my rig I totally agree with the sway bar comments, these piggies need all the help the can get in the handling department.

Here is a quick pic this morning on semi level ground.
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That's a loaded question... im currently over corrected OME yellows & 2.5" MAF brackets.
Guessing at 5° but have a set of factory bushings waiting to be installed. Not sure where these Slinkies are going to settlend down to yet. They have come down about half a inch since install. They are at 3.25" lift right now.

Just for the record minus my 1" body lift:
Center of hub to bottom of flare.
75mm Slinky AC7498
Front driver 23.5" Pass 23.25"
OME 862+40mm
Rear driver 21.5" Pass 21.5"
 
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I would put the front sway bar back on. Had mine off for a couple months because the axle mounts tore off. It's fine in town but it is pretty worrying whenever I have to slow down fast or from high speeds. I have to steer to keep it from leaning sometimes. Highways are awful, it is almost impossible to keep straight... Just my input.

After going 4" and adjusting shock travel, I found the front swaybar created a lot of jerky counter suspension motion. I would take it off for wheeling and finally pulled it, where it's been collecting dust for years now.

I dont want to advise taking it off, but I do think it interacts with the suspension differently at different geometries (lift height, etc.) and with different spring/shock combos. There is no way I would use it on my rig and I do a lot of loaded family miles, but I only found that to be the case with somewhat more lift and shocks tuned to that lift.

I think there is something to hitting a lift point on the 80 that changes the dynamics from being more rolly polly, and it's counter intuitive for people who go through a lot of cycles trying to overly minimize lift when the result is actually retaining the factory sway dynamics and needing to keep the front bar. Which of course is then is a major impediment off-road.

The 80 is by far the best balanced off-road IMO with the rear bar on (resisting flex somewhat) and front off (allowing more balanced flex without losing the stability), but because it isn't suited for a quick disconnect, the front bar usually stays on. Once that is the case, it's difficult to get the suspension to feel balanced, and its easy to spend a good deal of coin chasing that feeling.

If spending the money, the pursuit of a front end sans swaybar is a very worthwhile goal. I don't think it requires $400 shocks, but again, trying to minimize lift may actually be counterproductive.
 

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