GTurbo CT26 Bad Boy Stage 1 + 1HD-FTE HDJ79 = over 200kW (at wheels! (1 Viewer)
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No they are not , This is a one of wheel for now to see if this fixes the flutter , as per Lcool posts the wheels cant catch up when the flutter is happening and instead of pushing the air the wheel is cutting the air making the fluttering sound.
I also thought that the black housing meant BB1 and gold for BB2 we'll see once its bolted back on
Marty
but I did end up with some slickers
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Is it likely that the 233kw set up will be run on the dyno again with a different (correct?) ramp rate...... so differences can be directly compared with this proposed new set up and the 233 and not having to be a genius on a scientific calculator....
Dyno readings aren't a perfect science, so don't read too much into potential changes.
It sure will be.
Ok gota ask what do you mean correct ramp rate ?
I'm assuming you mean re-tune the chip to get the most out of it , as my set up is from a 79 series the ramp rate is already less than the 100 series, not only that the tune on my chip is less than what other have as I at first didnt want all the power
A while back I bought a brand new 100 series pump many have told me that it wont work with the 79 ECU, now add a tuned uni chip and larger flowing injectors it wouldn't matter what pump you run now as the ramp rate has been completely changed with the chip it anything The 100 series pump has more fuel or performance characteristics as both pumps on the test bench have similar fuel range settings, the fuel quantity delivered to the engine is controlled by the ECU via sensor input that is being tricked by the chip
G will most likely do a re-tune on the chip once everything is back in place next month
Marty
:whoops: ramp rate of the dyno not ramp rate of the fuel pump LOL either way both need to be re adjusted , next month
M.
M.
Yes dyno ramp rate.....To me it's so "ordinary" cruiser owners (or anyone for that matter) can compare apples with apples (or as close as they can get)...... if other parameters are changed please advise of them.....
Here is a little update for those that are not over at Lcool
Ok so this is what happened the other day
A few months back my ECU light came on whist driving and then turned itself off not giving it much thought until today. Yesterday it came on and stayed on the vehicle still drove fine with no sign of trouble that changed today, picking my camping stove the vehicle felt like is if it just wasnt pulling the way it used to. After had managed to get it back home some time later the first thing that came to mind was the wiring for the uni-chip as I have had a loose connection there before, 2 hrs later the chip is now hard wired and still the ecu light was on, disconnect the ECU power for 20sec reconnect and the light was out and stayed out for the next 40km before coming back on getting a little on the cranky side now out came the spare parts , map sensor Nope , temp sensor Nope switching solenoid Nope surely not the Computer Exclamation
Swapped it out and sure enough the light was out -- for now-- took it for another 40km's or so and it remained out But the first thing I notice just how much more responsive the vehicle was even just in setting 1 , and I havent even got the hi-flow injectors or the intercooler back on yet
This then made me think about a comment that Graeme once made, "there is something not quite with Marty's LC" cause in setting 1 he should be getting 150rwkw and he is not getting that.
Is it possible that a faulty computer could have held back the fuel and a fault only just showed itself after all this time?
Who knows , all I know is that setting 1 has a great deal more power than it did for the past month , should be fun once I get to bolt everything back on Very Happy
And after the weekend
Well lets just say I made the time to find out if the 100 series pump could be run with a 79 computer. Friday night I started to remove everything , Cross over intake , injector lines , T belt , injector pump , radiator, R cover , Injectors you mane it and it was done even cleaned the inlet manifold of the oil poo build up that I never cleaned before
Monet of truth came this morning when all that needed to be done was to change the Camshaft seal after that and before the radiator went back in I fired her up.
No rattles good start and it ran smooth , turned her off and continued with finishing the job , water in and start her up again waited for the thermostat to open before heading out for a drive
Setting one no LPG and straight away I could tell that it had a lot more grunt than before it spooled up earlier as well turned the gas on and she took off and this was just in setting 1 , driving along I gave it setting 3 and bugger me WOW was the 1st thing that came to mind I drove to the post office and on the way back heading up the hill on the southern side of Wisemans Ferry setting 4 it was just a total beast when I started to think what will setting 5 be like , next long straight it was on pushed #5 and hold on as it took off again I took a quick look at the boost gauge it read 41.7lb (swearing ME) I backed off let her cool down and re-set the boost to 35lb
For the rest of the day my smile was a huge grin and after I called Graeme to let him know how she went he said " I'm jealous" he asked questions like were you able to hold full boost at 4000rpm "Yep" any black smoke considering you are not running a intercooler at the moment "Nope" he then went on to say once the cooler was back on I'd have another 20rwkw and that the 3" exhaust was now holding me back , to which I replayed I dont really need any more power than what it has now
Another dyno run and afr's to be had soon
End result the 79 series computer coupled with the uni-chip, it had no problems what so ever driving the 100 series injector pump (( sorry Al looks like I'll be keeping the pump now )) What a RUSH but now its time to get back to earth as I normally dont drive like this at all
Gota laugh though , there was this Biker in full colors behind me, waiting to fly pass me and the guy in front of me on the next straight after the road works , I was in 3rd and could hear him giving it all it had to make the double pass , I beat him to the blinkers and off I went 3rd,4th 5th looked in the mirror and I was pulling away from him at a rate of knots and he was trying to keep up , Huge grin on my face Very Happy to say the least and when I let him pass a few km's up the road he pulled next to me and gave me the thumbs up before taking off
What a day
Marty
_________________
Ok so this is what happened the other day
A few months back my ECU light came on whist driving and then turned itself off not giving it much thought until today. Yesterday it came on and stayed on the vehicle still drove fine with no sign of trouble that changed today, picking my camping stove the vehicle felt like is if it just wasnt pulling the way it used to. After had managed to get it back home some time later the first thing that came to mind was the wiring for the uni-chip as I have had a loose connection there before, 2 hrs later the chip is now hard wired and still the ecu light was on, disconnect the ECU power for 20sec reconnect and the light was out and stayed out for the next 40km before coming back on getting a little on the cranky side now out came the spare parts , map sensor Nope , temp sensor Nope switching solenoid Nope surely not the Computer Exclamation
Swapped it out and sure enough the light was out -- for now-- took it for another 40km's or so and it remained out But the first thing I notice just how much more responsive the vehicle was even just in setting 1 , and I havent even got the hi-flow injectors or the intercooler back on yet
This then made me think about a comment that Graeme once made, "there is something not quite with Marty's LC" cause in setting 1 he should be getting 150rwkw and he is not getting that.
Is it possible that a faulty computer could have held back the fuel and a fault only just showed itself after all this time?
Who knows , all I know is that setting 1 has a great deal more power than it did for the past month , should be fun once I get to bolt everything back on Very Happy
And after the weekend
Well lets just say I made the time to find out if the 100 series pump could be run with a 79 computer. Friday night I started to remove everything , Cross over intake , injector lines , T belt , injector pump , radiator, R cover , Injectors you mane it and it was done even cleaned the inlet manifold of the oil poo build up that I never cleaned before
Monet of truth came this morning when all that needed to be done was to change the Camshaft seal after that and before the radiator went back in I fired her up.
No rattles good start and it ran smooth , turned her off and continued with finishing the job , water in and start her up again waited for the thermostat to open before heading out for a drive
Setting one no LPG and straight away I could tell that it had a lot more grunt than before it spooled up earlier as well turned the gas on and she took off and this was just in setting 1 , driving along I gave it setting 3 and bugger me WOW was the 1st thing that came to mind I drove to the post office and on the way back heading up the hill on the southern side of Wisemans Ferry setting 4 it was just a total beast when I started to think what will setting 5 be like , next long straight it was on pushed #5 and hold on as it took off again I took a quick look at the boost gauge it read 41.7lb (swearing ME) I backed off let her cool down and re-set the boost to 35lb
For the rest of the day my smile was a huge grin and after I called Graeme to let him know how she went he said " I'm jealous" he asked questions like were you able to hold full boost at 4000rpm "Yep" any black smoke considering you are not running a intercooler at the moment "Nope" he then went on to say once the cooler was back on I'd have another 20rwkw and that the 3" exhaust was now holding me back , to which I replayed I dont really need any more power than what it has now
Another dyno run and afr's to be had soon
End result the 79 series computer coupled with the uni-chip, it had no problems what so ever driving the 100 series injector pump (( sorry Al looks like I'll be keeping the pump now )) What a RUSH but now its time to get back to earth as I normally dont drive like this at all
Gota laugh though , there was this Biker in full colors behind me, waiting to fly pass me and the guy in front of me on the next straight after the road works , I was in 3rd and could hear him giving it all it had to make the double pass , I beat him to the blinkers and off I went 3rd,4th 5th looked in the mirror and I was pulling away from him at a rate of knots and he was trying to keep up , Huge grin on my face Very Happy to say the least and when I let him pass a few km's up the road he pulled next to me and gave me the thumbs up before taking off
What a day
Marty
_________________
I'm aware of that , I have been making sure that I dont go over 450'c post T
The water to air cooler should be here this week but the FT R/cover maybe next or the week after that
Cheers Marty
The water to air cooler should be here this week but the FT R/cover maybe next or the week after that
Cheers Marty
You need to move your probe. Post turbo temperatures are useless, particularly when running high boost.
Thats always been the great debate hasn't it , as long as you know what temps you run normally there is no problem using one pre or post
When the W2air cooler is fitted the max temp I would ever see is 380'c normal driving 180 / 250'c
My probe is not in the usual spot some 100mm back from the flange , mines is less then 25mm and directly in the main flow stream , besides the air intake temps also give you info on thats going on eg; 110'c in and 40'c for a 30'c ambient temp and the most Ive seen was 125'c / 50'c on a 38'c day I'd say ive got it pretty close to where it needs to be
Marty
When the W2air cooler is fitted the max temp I would ever see is 380'c normal driving 180 / 250'c
My probe is not in the usual spot some 100mm back from the flange , mines is less then 25mm and directly in the main flow stream , besides the air intake temps also give you info on thats going on eg; 110'c in and 40'c for a 30'c ambient temp and the most Ive seen was 125'c / 50'c on a 38'c day I'd say ive got it pretty close to where it needs to be
Marty
But you don't know your temps. As soon as you change boost or intake conditions all previous baselines are straight out the window.
Also as the temps you measure get colder, you lose resolution.
As the probe gets shorter you're measuring more external pipe temp and less gas temp.
What's the point of an EGT gauge again? I thought it was measuring exhaust temp out the head and into the turbo!
There is no great debate. If you want to know what's happening, it's gotta be in the manifold.
The tip of my probe is 50mm through the pipe like I said mid flow directly behind the turbo wheel , I have never had any issues using mine this way , tell whats the difference between reading pre and post , you will still get a correct reading no matter what as you put your boost into it temp rises for both pre and post probes all be it maybe 100'c more for pre
You still get a sense for what goes on just the same
M.
You still get a sense for what goes on just the same
M.
Nope.
The more boost you run, the more heat the turbine extracts from the exhuast flow and the colder your post EGT measurement. While true EGT continues to rise.
It is impossible to get a good, accurate or even useful reading form a post-turbine EGT probe. They are a complete waste of time.
Ok I see your point now
Go ahead.
I'm perfectly happy running the average from all cylinders at the first point they meet.
