Folks,
Just completed setting up my brakes in my 64 FST. Thought I would post pics of how I did it in my rig. Before painting my rig I cut down the firewall "rib" and prettied it up, so my goal was to place the booster as close to the firewall as possible, others may need to space it further to clear the vertical "rib".
My rig has disc brakes up front and stock in the rear. I ran the rear brakes up the the stock connection block on the frame on the passenger side. Once the booster and MC were installed I would need to run a line to that connection block. Drivers side connection to brake line is in stock location.
I fabbed new brake lines in the rest of the car and for this will need to as well. Get familiar with your brake flare tool!
First, I fabbed up some 3/16" plate steel. One to fit in the recess on the firewall with 3 bolt holes, and one to fit on the Booster.
Next I lined everything up so that brake pedal rod passes through the existing firewall hole. The two plates will not line up but their cut out circles will.
Through some black paint on it and here it is ready for the booster.
Now it was time to mount everything up, and there is plenty of room for everything.
Now it was time to fab some brake lines. I decided to use an aftermarket brake proportioning valve and not the ugly Geo Metro one. This one (wilwood) allows you to adjust how hard the rear brakes. This brake line took a while, it has a lot of bends to fit into the tunnel behind the head on the firewall. Clipped it down in one spot where the FD bracket is. Also, added a loop in the brake line where it transitions from tub to chassis.
Here is where that line goes to the booster.
And here is where the line runs down to the front brake connector block. Can't see but there is another loop on the bottom.
Now, I am waiting for some parts to arrive before connecting to pedal, but I built a threaded coupler and used some threaded rod (bolt with head cut off to lengthen the pedal rod by about 3 inches.
I am pretty happy with how this turned out. Sorry for the cell phone photos, but thought this could help someone attempting the same.
Chris
Just completed setting up my brakes in my 64 FST. Thought I would post pics of how I did it in my rig. Before painting my rig I cut down the firewall "rib" and prettied it up, so my goal was to place the booster as close to the firewall as possible, others may need to space it further to clear the vertical "rib".
My rig has disc brakes up front and stock in the rear. I ran the rear brakes up the the stock connection block on the frame on the passenger side. Once the booster and MC were installed I would need to run a line to that connection block. Drivers side connection to brake line is in stock location.
I fabbed new brake lines in the rest of the car and for this will need to as well. Get familiar with your brake flare tool!
First, I fabbed up some 3/16" plate steel. One to fit in the recess on the firewall with 3 bolt holes, and one to fit on the Booster.
Next I lined everything up so that brake pedal rod passes through the existing firewall hole. The two plates will not line up but their cut out circles will.
Through some black paint on it and here it is ready for the booster.
Now it was time to mount everything up, and there is plenty of room for everything.
Now it was time to fab some brake lines. I decided to use an aftermarket brake proportioning valve and not the ugly Geo Metro one. This one (wilwood) allows you to adjust how hard the rear brakes. This brake line took a while, it has a lot of bends to fit into the tunnel behind the head on the firewall. Clipped it down in one spot where the FD bracket is. Also, added a loop in the brake line where it transitions from tub to chassis.
Here is where that line goes to the booster.
And here is where the line runs down to the front brake connector block. Can't see but there is another loop on the bottom.
Now, I am waiting for some parts to arrive before connecting to pedal, but I built a threaded coupler and used some threaded rod (bolt with head cut off
to lengthen the pedal rod by about 3 inches.I am pretty happy with how this turned out. Sorry for the cell phone photos, but thought this could help someone attempting the same.
Chris
