Garage concrete sealer? (1 Viewer)

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Who knows about sealing of new concrete please? Our home construction is nearing its end and part of it is a 625 sqft detached garage. What is best for sealing the concrete there? Something I can do myself, and I actually don't want to epoxy it. Just the look of sealed concrete would be preferable, and I want to do it as long as its clean and nothing has been parked in there.
Is there something durable, oil/stain resistant that I can apply myself?

Thanks for the help,
Jan
 
Who knows about sealing of new concrete please? Our home construction is nearing its end and part of it is a 625 sqft detached garage. What is best for sealing the concrete there? Something I can do myself, and I actually don't want to epoxy it. Just the look of sealed concrete would be preferable, and I want to do it as long as its clean and nothing has been parked in there.
Is there something durable, oil/stain resistant that I can apply myself?

Thanks for the help,
Jan

You will have to wait for the concrete to cure at least 60 days before putting any kind of sealer or epoxy on it. Once that has happened go to Lowes and get a some TSP solution and clean the garage with that and make sure it is rinsed off well then use Valspar Fast Prep that will clean and etch the concrete to allow the sealer to actually bond to it. Let the concrete dry for about 48-72 hrs before applying the sealer. After the concrete is dry check for moisture by taping down a 2x2 peice of plastic and let it sit for 30 minutes and come back and lift it if there is moisture present let it dry some more until there is no more moisture. Once it is finished apply your concrete sealer with a garden pump sprayer than back roll it. If it is soaked into the concrete within 20 minutes apply a second coat. Let it dry for 3 days before driving on it. (I used to be a Valspar Territory Manager)
 
I used a solvent base (Xylene) sealer with great results. Not all states allow the sale of solvent base sealers.I can't comment on water base sealers. Fork lift traffic and hot work has had little effect on the floor finish after 2.5 years. After prepping the floor, I rolled two medium coats (1/2" nap). You will need a respirator if using solvent base sealer. I would use this type of sealer again in a heart beat. 5 gallon pail ran me $147 (Arizona sealer) purchased at a local contractors supply house (Border Products). Takes about five days to cure prior to driving but can walk on it after a couple of hours.
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I used a solvent base (Xylene) sealer with great results. Not all states allow the sale of solvent base sealers.I can't comment on water base sealers. Fork lift traffic and hot work has had little effect on the floor finish after 2.5 years. After prepping the floor, I rolled two medium coats (1/2" nap). You will need a respirator if using solvent base sealer. I would use this type of sealer again in a heart beat. 5 gallon pail ran me $147 (Arizona sealer) purchased at a local contractors supply house (Border Products). Takes about five days to cure prior to driving but can walk on it after a couple of hours.
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It will depend on the state AZ isnt an VOC state so you can get almost anything there solvent based vs water based they both will last just as long and are durable indoors outdoors water based is the way to go because it is UV resistant xylene will break down quicker due to UV rays indoors a solvent base will give a shinier look but you can buy a wet look water based sealer just the same. Solvent based are going to be cheaper in cost because it is worse for the environment hate to say it but it's easier to manufacture that is why. Performance wise they will do the same in the garage the smell will linger longer with solvent base but cost will be cheaper but perform the same as a water based sealer.
 
It was my understanding at the time of purchase that solvent base sealer can be reapplied by swabbing the floor with xylene then re-applying the solvent base sealer vs completely stripping the water base sealer for re-application. I will add that gasoline will soften the solvent base sealer. As far as UV yellowing, I have not experienced this but then again its indoors.
The worst part is the prepping as I had fork lift tire marks from erecting the building. A floor buffer was used with two different buff pads and a s*** ton of mopping prior to sealing. I would do the same again as I'm very happy with the results.
 

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