Front differential pinion seal removal (1 Viewer)

[jlhollowx13]

Hi all. I'm going through doing a bunch of minor repairs to my 40 before winter. I've gotten a lot done but still have a lot ahead of me. One problem I'm running into is that I can't seem to get the nut off the front different to change the seal. It looks like the lock part has been twisted so it's no longer locking in the groove, but it seems like it should still come off. If cranked on it, haven't tried air tools yet, but does anyone have any tricks for this? I'd really like to fix this leak and it annoys me when a stuck bolt is my issue.

Thanks!

 

[unklwedy]

If it's the staked nut flavor you could try undoing the staked part using an awl and hammer. Also you'll need the special tool that holds flange from turning or similar.

 

[jlhollowx13]

Thanks. It is a staked nut, but according to Toyota it should be a castle nut. Can anyone confirm this? I was wanting to order a new nut as well bUT my parts diagram shows it being different. Maybe someone changed out my different at one point?

The staked part is what has turned, it's no longer locked in the slot. I didn't see a way to unstated it without damaging the threads but I'll look again.

 

[B y r o n]

My bet is that the original nut was replaced and a staked nut was installed. I suggest that you lock the hubs to prevent the gears from being able to spin freely. Then using a breaker bar or impact remove the nut. You will not damage the pinion as the nut is softer than the threads.

 

[jlhollowx13]

Thanks for that. I guess I'll try an impact, probably should have to begin with, but I figured the huge breaker bar I was using should have sufficed.

 

[sadam_husain]

if your trying to use a breaker bar you want to use a piece of scrap steel (1" box section or angle iron) about 2" long and drill a couple of holes in one end so you can bolt it to the pinion flange and the other end can swing around and lock against the frame then the breaker bar will loosen it otherwise even with the vehicle in gear and chocked all the torque your applying is still transferred out through the drive train and lost

 

[jlhollowx13]

if your trying to use a breaker bar you want to use a piece of scrap steel (1" box section or angle iron) about 2" long and drill a couple of holes in one end so you can bolt it to the pinion flange and the other end can swing around and lock against the frame then the breaker bar will loosen it otherwise even with the vehicle in gear and chocked all the torque your applying is still transferred out through the drive train and lost

Thanks, yeah I tried it in gear first and realized I was moving the car so I rigged up a thick pry bar to hold the flange. Still didn't help but I'm thinking an impact will yield better results, I hope at least!

Air tools are something I have but never think to use. Not sure why, guess I like doing it slow and by hand haha.

 

[tls3601]

I took mine to my mechanic..................did not have the tool or equip to fabricate one. Pics?

 

[jlhollowx13]

I'd I remember right the actual tool is just a bar with 2 holes and it bolts to the flange to be able to hold it steady.

 

[emac]

There is something magical about using an impact tool. It just has the ability to jiggle them loose. If using an impact tool do not put an extension on it. That will greatly reduce the ability of the air tool to work as efficiently. Mine came off with an impact.

 

[Pin_Head]

It is just a normal type of nut that you will have to learn how to deal with routinely if you want to do your own work on cruisers.

You just aren't using enough tool and putting manly effort on it.

Make a 4 foot bar of 1/4 angle stock to bolt to the flange to keep it from turning.

Get a 5 foot piece of 1.25 inch ID pipe to use as a "cheater bar" and put it over the end of your breaker bar and put some force on it. 500 ft lbs will take care of it.

 

[2fpower]

It is just a normal type of nut that you will have to learn how to deal with routinely if you want to do your own work on cruisers.

You just aren't using enough tool and putting manly effort on it.

Make a 4 foot bar of 1/4 angle stock to bolt to the flange to keep it from turning.

Get a 5 foot piece of 1.25 inch ID pipe to use as a "cheater bar" and put it over the end of your breaker bar and put some force on it. 500 ft lbs will take care of it.

please excuse @Pin_Head , some people think he can be course at time. Sometimes, he is just saying things in the nicest way he can.

What he meant to say is pull up your skirt and try it again.

 

[jlhollowx13]

Haha thanks for the constructive criticism. I'm going to try air tools next then go work out if I still can't get it haha. I already tried using a cheater bar and pretty much hung on it. I've got high hopes for the air tools. It will probably be the first time I've used air tools on any of my toyotas, usually I can get it or the bolt breaks haha!

 

[Pin_Head]

please excuse @Pin_Head , some people think he can be course at time. Sometimes, he is just saying things in the nicest way he can.

What he meant to say is pull up your skirt and try it again.

It is coarse of course, and I was being nice.

If you want to be a mechanic, you have to act like one. Getting a bigger wrench always works; sometimes air impact tools don't.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I worked in a diesel shop that took in anything that would fit through the door , and sometimes things that would not fit through the door . Learned the hard way - I'm a skinny guy so mechanical leverage is king - as well as huge air powered tools . Laying on your back on a creeper with a 1" long nose impact isn't fun , but it gets the job done quickly . I've busted those nuts loose with a 650lb impact (1/2" drive) on a regular basis - it takes a lot of air volume to run them correctly and all hoses and fittings are 1/2" Industrial type I/M . Pinhead is right - use a long cheater bar and stop hitting it with your purse...

Sarge

 

[jlhollowx13]

Haha yes I know it was probably a dumb question warranting an answer such as 'get a bigger wrench and just do it'. I Just like to learn any old school methods or tricks others may know of. Such as I would have never known to use bread to pop the bearing out while doing a clutch job if I didn't ask.

Some good news is I did get it off. Looks like it already has a speedi sleeve and was siliconed. Bearing was loose anyway so replacing that might help overall.