Front Axle repair cost - is this right? (1 Viewer)

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Feb 7, 2008
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Arkansas
Well the nightmare scenario I suppose. Ive had my 80 for about 4 months now. Over the weekend on a lonely dirt road with my wife and kid the front axle gives out. I ended up backing down the road about 2 miles to get to a surface road so we could be found. Finally get the car towed to the local Toyota dealership. Got a call today and it's the front axle for sure. Quoted $2400. damn....is this right. Could Someone give me some advice before I have to pull the trigger on this sad state of affairs.
 
Haven't got any details yet, I'm heading over there after work to see whats going on. Then I'll repost. I am assuming with that cost it's a total replacement.
 
You're probably right. It's probably a rebuild as descibed in a post I have seen here on mud. But its seems pretty complicated.
 
$2400 to do a front axle rebuild??? parts are a little over $200 from the dealership :eek:

If all it needs is a rebuild then do it yourself and save a huge stack of cash.
 
When you say the axle "went out" what exactly do you mean??
 
For sure need more details. "Gives out" is very very vague. But if we extrapolate that it was not working and/or making enough noise to cause for pause...I'd just guess that your $2,400 estimate is for a birf rebuild, axle seals and probably one axle shaft (with birf). Seldom do Toyota diffs go bad IME.

And to post 3...no FOR SURE not a "replacement."

If you cannot do the work for yourself, be ready to pay...A LOT to have someone else do it for you!
 
Could you expand on the "front axle gives out" part.

What were the symptoms?

When you backed down the hill, was the front turning or dragging?

Get an itemized quote from the dealer and let us know what they're proposing.
 
When my wheel bearings ate my spindles it was about $2600 to repair everything.

Depending on the extent of the damages I'd say that's could be reasonable. On the other hand it could be something alot less serious and you may be getting hosed. You need to know what the problem is first.
 
I just received an email desciption from the dealership ........

" [FONT=&quot]here is an estimate of the work to be done--tech says the front axles are binding somewhere--seems to be mostly in the front--will need to do both front axle seals,pack front wheel bearings,it may be in the axle joint--2 front inner axle shafts,front outer shaft sub-assembly,front axle overhaul gasket kit,oil seal--i hope i havent confused you at all--parts and labor--2401.42--does not include tax[/FONT]"

This is what happened.. going down the backside of a hill and hit the brakes, there was allot of rumbling going on. It didnt feel like the brakes, more like I was dragging something. got out to check, nothing. Got back in put it in drive hit the accelerator no movement, engine revs up then...pop, started moving but not very good. brake again with the same rumble rumble rumble. Decided I probably shouldnt go any further. Put it in reverse to see what would happen and it ran smooth, brake again in reverse and all was well. So I backed up to the surface road, cell phone, tow truck...s***
 
You probably just stripped a drive flange. This is very common and commonly confused with far more major problems. Should cost $40 for the part and less than 30 minutes to swap out working slow.

You may have broken a birf-that's more expensive but no where close to $2400.

Do not agree to this outrageous charge until you check out the easy and cheap stuff first.

A full rebuild of the front axle with new seals, new knuckle bearings and repacked wheel bearings usually is quoted as $1200 by the dealer.

I would start by getting the truck back from the dealer. Drain the oil in the diff. If no large metal chunks, then your repair will be fairly inexpensive. Plus it means your repair will be in the knuckle/wheelbearing area.

I'd almost bet money it's the drive flange.


Edit: Nator Gator's thought below is a very good one too and could also explain exactly your symptoms.
 
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Did you check your caliper bolts and the inside of your wheels (inside meaning inner exposed surface directly adjacent to the breaking surfaces)?

I would immediately check those. There is a (relatively) common problem of the bottom bolt coming loose and falling out, whereupon the action of breaking causes the caliper to bind heavily into the inner surface of the wheel. Everything seems fine in reverse though.

If this was a road with washboarding, I wouldn't be all that surprised. That is a very easy and very inexpensive fix.
 
Thanks guys, I'm heading to the ship now to ask some questions. What bothers me is the road wasnt all that rough and the car performed flawlessly up to that point, never a problem and no indications that something was brewing. hmm
 
Thanks guys, I'm heading to the ship now to ask some questions. What bothers me is the road wasnt all that rough and the car performed flawlessly up to that point, never a problem and no indications that something was brewing. hmm

Did you know the previous history of the cruiser? Many, many of these trucks were grocery getters and the 1st, 2nd etc,.. owners may have skimped on PM, especially the front axle service.
Until you've baselined your truck you really don't know what you'll find unless you have lots of reciepts from the previous owners.

Parts (OEM) on these trucks rarely fail unless they've been neglected or installed incorrectly.

I did a major rebuild of the front end on my 1993 and purchased new OEM birfs, even with a hefty discount they were over 500 a piece..

I hope the fix with your is relatively simple.
 
Did you check your caliper bolts and the inside of your wheels (inside meaning inner exposed surface directly adjacent to the breaking surfaces)?

I would immediately check those. There is a (relatively) common problem of the bottom bolt coming loose and falling out, whereupon the action of breaking causes the caliper to bind heavily into the inner surface of the wheel. Everything seems fine in reverse though.

If this was a road with washboarding, I wouldn't be all that surprised. That is a very easy and very inexpensive fix.


This is very true and happened to me on my Z28 on a flat surface one time also.
 
If you can't work on it yourself it would probably be cheaper, and it would get done correctly, to just fly Robbie (aka Powerpig) down to fix her up for you :)

I'm guessing that the dealership is guessing as to what the real issue...I seriously doubt that they have pulled the front end apart unless you agreed and paid them to do so...
 
I'm guessing that the dealership is guessing as to what the real issue...I seriously doubt that they have pulled the front end apart unless you agreed and paid them to do so...

This is what I think too. They want a high dollar repair. Offer to pay them 1 hour of shop time for a real diagnostic. Then at worse, you're only poorer by $100.

Since you are not Cruiser savvy yet, they will take you to the cleaners if you are not careful.
 
I'd say find a helpful member on this board near you and offer them a nice dinner, beer and gas money to come help you look at and teach you about your truck.
 

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