1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Front Axle rebuild

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by CruisinGA, Aug 17, 2003.

  1. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    Sorry for yet another front axle thread, this one is my ? thread. I'm starting my front axle rebuild in a few minutes, and I started this thread to ask questions on as I'm sure I'll have many as I go along. I'm gonna take my time, I've got a parts washer, a digicam, and a FSM+Haynes. I feel ready to go. If you've got any suggestions/ideas let em come, I'll check the thread every couple of hours or so.
     
  2. dd113

    dd113

    Messages:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2003
    Have a lot of rags around and gojo! You have my number. Feel free to call if you get stuck. Biggest thing is to keep the shims in order, makes install easier.
     
  3. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    Thanks David, yeah I'll keep that number handy, and watch out for those shims!
     
  4. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    1st problem-
    There are no two flat headed screws holding in the brake drum. There are two holes, but are not lined up with any other holes and are not directly across from each other like the FSM shows. Not sure if I should just keep tugging on the brake drum or what. Heres a pic.
     
  5. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
  6. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    Got it sorted out, apparently there is only supposed to be one screw in my drum, and it was missing. Got the drum off. On to the next step.
     
  7. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    So far so good, I've got the PS completely disassembled and mostly cleaned except for the inner axle seal, you know the PITA seal. How am I supposed to get that sucker out without a seal puller? Both the FSM and the tech pages instructions don't really have an answer.
     
  8. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

    Messages:
    11,778
    Likes Received:
    307
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2002
    Location:
    Knee deep in hookers and gin
    [quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=4381;start=msg32796#msg32796 date=1061170897]
    So far so good, I've got the PS completely disassembled and mostly cleaned except for the inner axle seal, you know the PITA seal. How am I supposed to get that sucker out without a seal puller? Both the FSM and the tech pages instructions don't really have an answer.
    [/quote]

    If you are very careful, you can put a srewdriver or a long chisel under the outside edge of the metal part of the seal and tap up and in. DO not score the edge where the seal sits. You will bend the seal up and it will be loose, easy to grab with needle nose pliers and ruined. Of couse, a seal puller ruins the seal too. We are talking about the axle seal and not the wheel seal right?
     
  9. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    Yes we were talking about the axle seal. I managed to get it last night with a small prybar, gradually working it out side to side, using the metal lip of the seal to work it out, I was careful to not score the surface where it seats. I actually had thought of what you said, but then saw the prybar and that worked great.
    2 more questions:
    How do I tell if the wheel bearings are good? Mine look fine, they move smoothly, no rust or pitting.
    I don't have to split the birfield to pack it with grease right? Because my rebuild kit did not include the snapring that breaks when you split the birf.
     
  10. dd113

    dd113

    Messages:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2003
    No need to split the birfield. Just goob it up with clean grease. I would change the wheel bearings just cuz but you do not "need" to unless they show wear or the races are pitted. You do need a new outer oil seal.
     
  11. woody

    woody Internet Fireman Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,329
    Media:
    303
    Likes Received:
    1,084
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2002
    Location:
    Toquerville UT
    [quote author=dd113 link=board=1;threadid=4381;start=msg32903#msg32903 date=1061216585]
    Just goob it up with clean grease. [/quote]

    "goob" is a technical term....seriously....

    best tool for "goobing" grease is a 1" rubber spatula, available in any kitchen department. Option B is to surprise the SO with a new set of spatulas, and steal the old ones...hehehe Spatula works great for cleaning grease from inside the knuckle too.
     
  12. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    One more question, when packing the trunion and wheel bearings do I just try to get as much grease in bearings as I can? I will have tubs of grease so I was thinking I would just drop the bearing in there and just squeeze grease in there. When I grease the hub (yes the real one, not hub "lockouts") do I more or less fill it up with grease like it was when I pulled it? or do I just pack the bearings and thats it?
    Thanks for hanging in there with me guys, I'm nearly through.
    Gumby-I do have new seals, I'm going to Napa in a few min and if they have the wheel bearings in stock, I will replace, if not, I won;t. (they look fine to my dad and I)
     
  13. woody

    woody Internet Fireman Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,329
    Media:
    303
    Likes Received:
    1,084
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2002
    Location:
    Toquerville UT
    Yer best bet is to clean the bearings of all old grease completely, then repack by hand...I use the spatula and keep pressing grease into all the openings until no more goes in. For the trunions, once you have the knuckle installed, I then pack that outer cavity "as full" as I can to keep the trunions lubed as much as possible. IIRC, the "manuals" state 2/3 full. With the birfield installed, since mine is apart so frequently for maintenance, I don't fill much in this cavity. Not positive what the manual says for this area...guessing 2/3 again tho....keeps the brass spindle bushing lubed properly.

    For the spindle inner/outer bearings, again grease/pack completely, then I fill in the "hollow" with grease, packing it behind the bearing prior to the inner seal, and the area between the bearings too. My thought is to keep as much water as possible out of that area. (can't get in there if their ain't room....lol)

    I've always used a bit of white lithium on the lockout itself...
     
  14. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    Oops I didn't mean to complete it, I'm not done yet!
    I already cleaned all the bearings out really well in my brand spankin new parts washer. This was my excuse to buy one. :0
    Ok Back to the garage I go.
     
  15. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,163
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    Ok, I finished this morning at 3 AM. then slept for 3 hours and then went wheelin today to make sure I did it right. :eek:
    Well I think I did cause I've driven around 250 miles in 1/2 a day at 65-70 mph and then spent 2 hours in 4 lo, and everything worked great!
    Thanks again guys, preciate all the pointers, advice and info. :)