Front Axle Rebuild Party - Shunt Cave 1.0 (1 Viewer)

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Are those wiper plates on backwards?
 
Why not paint the Caliper? It's visible through the wheel.
 
They were till I noticed they were backwards. I was taking apart the other side and noticed that

That's an easy one. I was setting the preload at 10pm last night and remembered the brake backing plate/dust shield was still setting on the tire by the back bumper. Not too bad though really.

I've actually broke out the torque wrench on this job, a rarity for me(hack, I know) but all the OCD madness on MUD made me do it.

One side almost complete. Over 5 hours. I ain't fast.

Lesson learned
- don't just pressure wash with wheels on. Remove wheels and get with it being certain you get the very bottom of the knuckle. Careful with abs sensor though. Cleaning parts has been 80% if not more of the work. Mine was nasty!

- get a seal/race driver kit. (Doing today for other side)
Brass drift and big sockets do work but it is slow going and then you get to clean up tons of chips of brass.
 
I started the driver side around around 10:30 on Saturday and worked till about 9pm that night and got it all together around 11am on Sunday.
 
I started the driver side around around 10:30 on Saturday and worked till about 9pm that night and got it all together around 11am on Sunday.

I'm running about the same pace. I think/hope the other side will go faster. I did the redneck gas as a solvent last night but I think I'll try something else on the other side as the gas, while a good solvent, sucks in every other regard.

I wish I knew how to work all nice and clean and neat but I'm a freaking slob and I know no other way otherwise I'd bug a buddy with a lift and parts washer and l'd be living the dream.
 
I'd bug a buddy with a lift and parts washer and l'd be living the dream.

I'm not sure he's up for shop visitors right now anyway.
 
I'm not sure he's up for shop visitors right now anyway.

Was actually thinking of Fly's place where we were working on my Jeep. I saw all of that about John the other day. He for dang sure isn't up for my kinda shop visit! He will pull through, as he has the constitution few people I know possess.

BTW, sorry for not waiting on the next axle date but I wanted to dig into this thing before driving it much more and causing any damage after opening up one side and finding the locknut almost off the spindle.

If ya'll get one together I'd be glad to come help. I consume beverages really well and I'm real good at eating and making messes. Just let me know.
 
No worries. We really missed the mark on this. it sucks that it seems Errbody is doing all this on their own, but it happens. I was trying to make it so it was simultaneous. I didn't stick to my primary rule of setting a date and not changing it. Should've stayed with June 4th.

I doubt I try to have another scheduled work party again.
 
Axle is done. Put all new bearings and races in the hubs and the trunnions while I was at it. Them trunnion races will fight with ya.
 
What trouble did the trunnions give you?

They are way to easy get a little crooked going in and if you do you can beat the ever living crap out of them and they won't budge. I found it best to work them back out a bit with a brass drift and go again.

Also, the suggestion to have extra inner axle seals is a good one. The fit is very tight and easy to get wrong.

This really is a long, nasty, job. If you don't need new bearings and races the job just became somewhat quicker though. My suggestion is not to replace unless you find slop in the trunnions before you tear it all apart. My trunnions were probably fine but I did them cause I had them. Would not do again unless necessary!
I can see why a labor bill from a mechanic could be over $1000.
 
They are way to easy get a little crooked going in and if you do you can beat the ever living crap out of them and they won't budge. I found it best to work them back out a bit with a brass drift and go again.

Also, the suggestion to have extra inner axle seals is a good one. The fit is very tight and easy to get wrong.

This really is a long, nasty, job. If you don't need new bearings and races the job just became somewhat quicker though. My suggestion is not to replace unless you find slop in the trunnions before you tear it all apart. My trunnions were probably fine but I did them cause I had them. Would not do again unless necessary!
I can see why a labor bill from a mechanic could be over $1000.

Yeah probably 3 of my 4 trunnion bearing races were not quite square when I tapped them in. Had to tap them back out and try again. The bearing race driver set made it much easier though. The axle seals were simple with the driver set.
 
I am not sure I've ever pulled the trunion races. Those bearings simply do not spin as much as the wheel bearings. I think I've only ever replaced them on one, because they came in a kit I had. Those bearings just do not wear.
 
So I drove the truck to work this morning which is about 30 miles and when I got to work I pulled the center caps off and the driveplate/ hub felt really hot. When I put the spindle nuts on the first one went on finger tight just to the point of no slop in the bearings and the second lock nut went on at 47 foot pounds.. Does it seem normal for the hub to get to the point where its almost too hot to touch? or do things just need to break in a little bit?
 
Hmm, shouldn't be too hot to touch. But my question would be, is everything else too hot to touch? Touch the axle housing and see if it's hot too. I mean, it is hotter than Ms. Devil's underpants last few days
 

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