FJ62 Transfer Case Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[eknight]

Soooooo, I'm about to put a used transmission into my 62 and plan on taking the opportunity to rebuild the transfer case. I think I have a pretty decent handle on the process, but this will be my first rebuild so I have a couple questions for you seasoned pros and vets.

1) All the SST's... can you just use normal bearing pullers and a press to accomplish the same thing? What diy solutions have you all come up with as work-arounds--especially when removing the companion flanges?

2) Will it be a good idea to go ahead and use thread sealant on every bolt no matter if it's called for in the FSM or not?

3) I've read fred's write-up cheat-sheet on disassembly and reassembly--any other helpful hints y'all can think of for a first-timer?

Any help will be greatly appreciated, I'll try to take tons of pics when I dive into it and do as comprehensive of a writeup I can muster since it doesn't look like there's a definitive one available in my search attempts.

I'm also going to reseal the used tranny before putting it in, so I'm sure I'll have some questions then as well.

BTW, I'm getting RoadRunner to rebuild the torque converter--I'm stoked!

 

[eknight]

And one more thing: Should I order a set of shims to set the output shaft preloads or should I be ok with the ones already in there?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You will need a press. The SSts are not really needed.

Getting the output shaft pre-load right is the most critical part of this. I needed different shims, others have reported they reused the same.

This is a good chance to install a McNamara gear. I assume you've looked into that?

At least in my series of 2, the companion flanges pulled right off with minimal persuasion.

The threads that need to be sealed, are the ones that penetrate the body of the case. If they thread into a blind hole, no sealer is needed.

Be very careful with the thrust washers on the idler shaft. Stick them to the case before you assemble.

 

[eknight]

Thanks Cruiserdrew! I suppose I'll go ahead and order the shims as well. Did you wait to order specific shims once you figured out the preload needed to be adjusted or did you already have them on hand?

McNamara gear is out of the budget at the moment (spending the extra money on the RoadRunner torque converter), but in the plans for the future. My tranny unexpectedly bled out on me, so my plan is to get some experience rebuilding the xfer and resealing the lower mileage used transmission then rebuild my current transmission and switch everything around again including the McNamara. Unfortunately I have to draw a line in the sand right now to get my cruiser back on the road in a somewhat reasonable amount of time and expense.

As far as the thrust washers, did you use moly or petroleum jelly to hold yours in place during assembly? Does it make a difference?

Thousand thanks for the help!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks Cruiserdrew! I suppose I'll go ahead and order the shims as well. Did you wait to order specific shims once you figured out the preload needed to be adjusted or did you already have them on hand?

McNamara gear is out of the budget at the moment (spending the extra money on the RoadRunner torque converter), but in the plans for the future. My tranny unexpectedly bled out on me, so my plan is to get some experience rebuilding the xfer and resealing the lower mileage used transmission then rebuild my current transmission and switch everything around again including the McNamara. Unfortunately I have to draw a line in the sand right now to get my cruiser back on the road in a somewhat reasonable amount of time and expense.

As far as the thrust washers, did you use moly or petroleum jelly to hold yours in place during assembly? Does it make a difference?

Thousand thanks for the help!

I ordered 1 of every shim size available(they are not all available). Kind of expensive, but worth it in the end.

I forget how I stuck the thrust washers to the case. I built it tail section up, used grease on the lower thrust washer and an adhesive on the other one. Easy in the end, but it has to be right.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Shims normally come in the transfer case overhaul kits.

 

[60Works]

I managed to disassemble mine with gear pullers and a small slide hammer.

To reassemble, you really need a press for the front output bearing in the front case half. It's certainly best and easiest to use a press on all the bearing replacements.

If you have time, order the shims when you measure the torque of the rear output shaft. The manual will give you ball park thickness' for measured torque values. You can then order the two most likely shims. My dealer's parts guy took back an unused shim I had ordered. His comment was that he wanted to keep rare parts like that available as long as possible.

I HIGHLY recommend using ony Toyota rubber seals and paper gaskets. FYI - the overhaul kit I ordered from Marlin did not have shims and came with low quality Taiwanese rubber seals. Plus, the speedometer seals did not fit. The bearings were KOYO. Also be aware that Marlin's bronze bushing inserts for the High and Low output gears were longer than OEM, didn't have the same oiling slots, and require honing for a proper fit.

Good luck.

 

[eknight]

Thanks a bunch for the insight Juggernaught! Luckily I am not ordering a "kit" per se... I'm ordering all-Mr.T/oem from beno. I'm also going to go ahead and order all the available shims then go from there... y'all might see a classified posting for the one's I don't use!

I have access to a press and various pullers, it's good to know they will work.


Looking like it's going to be around a week before I get everything I need in, but I'm probably going to start the tear-down this weekend.

 

[OGBeno]

I ordered 1 of every shim size available(they are not all available).

Confirmed all 13 are available.

 

[Smplybttr]

When I swapped my transmission, the Macnamara was out of my budget, too. Instead, I had my local welding shop weld the input gear, spacer and pto pulley welded together for $40. Well worth that little bit of coin, imo...

...via IH8MUD app

 

[eknight]

When I swapped my transmission, the Macnamara was out of my budget, too. Instead, I had my local welding shop weld the input gear, spacer and pto pulley welded together for $40. Well worth that little bit of coin, imo...

...via IH8MUD app

I'm going to have to look into that myself. My only concern there is throwing off the balance with the welds and creating a vibration or worse. I've skimmed over some diy McNamara threads--gonna go do some deeper digging.

Thanks!

 

[FJ40Jim]

The welds might be out of balance by 1/2oz, at a radius of 1".

Not enough to make a 1000# engine/trans/transfer vibrate.

 

[OGBeno]

Nice shims!!

 

[eknight]

Nice shims!!


View attachment 869095View attachment 869096

I'm stoked beno! Your care package just showed up, RoadRunner is shipping my tc out this afternoon and the tranny should be here soon.

Hopefully I can whittle enough time this weekend to get into some




Will be posting pics and accounts of my progress/lack thereof.

 

[code 621]

Subscribed! See this task in my near future.

 

[eknight]

Well folks, I hate to disappoint but the full rebuild is taking a backseat due to time constraints. I found the transfer is in pretty good shape and well within the FSM tolerances upon close inspection when I was disassembling it, so I decided to just reseal it and jump into a rebuild when I get around to rebuilding my transmission...

Anyway, I've run into a problem with the assembly (other than that effing transmission vent plug that's giving me hell). I can't figure out how to press the input gear in without getting my hands on that fancy sst. I've tried various methods that included a couple different kinds of hammers and a big ass bushing off one of my buddy's tow trucks trying to beat it in to no success. I also tried putting the spacer, pto gear and bearing on the shaft then tightening it down in an attempt to press it in but it just comes back out.

So I would like to know what the MUD brain trust has used to get that damned thing to seat. I can't figure out any other way than attempting to assemble the case and hope that presses everything together..

 

[Granite Grinder]

I can't help with with the gear, but it would be a shame to get that deep into your t-case and not replace the seal between the transmission and t-case, they tend to be a high wear item and when they leak, gear oil begins to migrate into the transmission. Automatics aren't fond of gear oil as lubricating source, in fact most rebuilders silicone the splines around the seal as well

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Are you sure there isn't a burr on the splines? That gear usually just slides right on without a lot of force. I would look things over very carefully as something may be blocking it or the splines are damaged in some way.

Usually the transmission output shaft is pretty badly worn on these-look for a step off on the shaft and maybe you'r hung on that. Hammers should not be needed.

How much force did it take to get off?

 

[eknight]

I can't help with with the gear, but it would be a shame to get that deep into your t-case and not replace the seal between the transmission and t-case, they tend to be a high wear item and when they leak, gear oil begins to migrate into the transmission. Automatics aren't fond of gear oil as lubricating source, in fact most rebuilders silicone the splines around the seal as well

I'm replacing all the seals, gaskets and o-rings, just not going into the full rebuild at the moment.

Are you sure there isn't a burr on the splines? That gear usually just slides right on without a lot of force. I would look things over very carefully as something may be blocking it or the splines are damaged in some way.

Usually the transmission output shaft is pretty badly worn on these-look for a step off on the shaft and maybe you'r hung on that. Hammers should not be needed.

How much force did it take to get off?

All the input shaft stuff was easy to get off. I checked the input gear when I was tearing everything down and that sucka has zero slop and the input shaft looks almost brand new. The biggest thing I noticed was there was no o-ring on the input shaft when I disassembled the t-case. Now that I'm putting it back together it seems the o-ring is the problem. Everything slides back on easily until it puts pressure on the o-ring.

I had to pull the transmission input bearing (the one that's attached to the tranny at the extension housing, not the one that sits on the input shaft inside the t-case) off my old transmission and put it on the "new" one without too much force or headache. Now I'm wondering if it was pressed on far enough. It also has a conical type washer/ring pointing toward the rear of the output shaft that goes on after the bearing--his is what fits into the inside of the input gear. I don't have the o-ring part # I used at the moment, but I did follow the fsm to the letter when starting the assembly. I put the front case on THEN slid the o-ring onto the input shaft... I slid it all the way past the seal to where it stops on that conical washer.

I'm at a loss here.

 

[eknight]

Just to follow up in case anyone is as green and stupid as me.... --NOTE THIS ONLY APPLYS TO A440 TRANNYS

The "conical washer" I mentioned that goes in front of the transmission input bearing turned out to not be a bearing at all--it was the old, petrified o-ring. It was so hard and stiff that I thought it was a washer... I figured it out after I accidentally dropped it on the ground and didn't hear the metal to concrete sound...

Anyway, please learn from my rookie mistake.