Will any year stock linkage work or just the later '85 and on?
fj62 t-case Vac to manual shift (the answer using all toyota parts) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lowtideride
- Start date
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I think 15mm x 1.5 based on further reading in FAQ:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=62979
You can obtain one of those taps here:
http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Metric+Taps:602,902,604
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Yep
Checked it today.
15mm x 1.5
Checked it today.
15mm x 1.5
Hey Al when you did this mod, did the new xfer case shifter fit through the same hole in the hump? or did you have to cut it a bit??
also did it pop out of gear ever without the detent ball and cap??
and what are the part numbers??
thanks
-Kiel-
also did it pop out of gear ever without the detent ball and cap??
and what are the part numbers??
thanks
-Kiel-
In the first picture, you have a manual trans so 
for that . I still have the autobox. Is there a mounting boss for the linkage on the automatic?
Oh, and great job and thanks for the information. :thumbsup:
for that . I still have the autobox. Is there a mounting boss for the linkage on the automatic?Oh, and great job and thanks for the information. :thumbsup:
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
modifying/changing the high-low lever in the vehicle would be a pita but can be done.
i'm about to do a swap like this and can post some more pics and info if anybody needs it.
thanks again for posting this. it's what boards like thie one should be all about!
i'm about to do a swap like this and can post some more pics and info if anybody needs it.
thanks again for posting this. it's what boards like thie one should be all about!
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that won't work.
Here's why it won't work.
1 The vac transfer shaft is way shorter than the manual transfer shaft and this puts your whole 4wd stick and linkage on totally the wrong angle. It will sit way too far forward at the stick.
2 The Hi-Lo lever is in totally the wrong position on the vac transfer and will never work unless modified. And you cannot just fit a man transfer lever as the flat on the shaft is in the wrong place.
3 The vac transfer has no detent to hold 2wd or 4wd.
You MUST have a detent or you will have an unsafe system.
There are a couple of other mods that need doing as well to get the thing working right.
I've done this modification without going inside the transfer, and I can tell you it took a lot more than just throwing in a seal, bolting on all the manual shift mechanism and off you go!
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orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
why don't you elaborate some then?! coming on here and critizising the original post without supporting your statement with details does'nt help anybody out.........
Bomar
SILVER Star
GM60
Tell us how it is done. I will tell you lowtideride has done alot of great work on some rigs.
Tell us how it is done. I will tell you lowtideride has done alot of great work on some rigs.
- Thread starter
- #30
Jesus,
re-read the first post in this thread before ranting.
I said it as clear as day. You can use the linkage for the 2-4 but you have to make new linkage for hi-low. The t-case shifter linkage I used bolted right up, there was no problem there so I don't know why you had such a hard time, maybe a different year linkage.
Again, this has been covered above that use of a detent ball is a good idea. So why are you still harping over it.
Wonder why I never come on here anymore.
re-read the first post in this thread before ranting.
I said it as clear as day. You can use the linkage for the 2-4 but you have to make new linkage for hi-low. The t-case shifter linkage I used bolted right up, there was no problem there so I don't know why you had such a hard time, maybe a different year linkage.
Again, this has been covered above that use of a detent ball is a good idea. So why are you still harping over it.
Wonder why I never come on here anymore.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
don't let this get to you bud. we know who you are and what you do....... 
Ok, first let me say that I was not meaning to attack or offend anyone here.
I don't know Lowtideride and don't have anything whatsoever against the guy.
I posted what I posted because I believe there is a lot more required to do this conversion and end up with a totally reliable and safe system.
Lets start with the shift lever angle.
When you fit the manual shift lever to the vac shaft, you end up with a totally different angle at the shifter as its connection at the bottom end is way further back due to the much shorter vac shaft.
This in turn puts the top end of the lever inside the cab way forward of its original position and it could foul the floor cutout.
The different angle also effects the pivot for hi-low and it ends up very different from the correct factory position.
That pivot should sit roughly level, but the photo shows it at quite an angle.
Now the detent.
It is of little to no use trying to drill and tap for the fitting of the manual detent as the vac 2wd-4wd shaft does NOT have any notches cut for the detent to locate in.
If you don't have a detent you don't have anything locating the 2wd-4wd shaft in either position.
Rough road driving could have the stick vibrating anywhere, and trying to work its way into 4wd at high speed and out of 4wd at low speed.
Neither situation is desirable IMO.
The rubber boot.
There is no locating groove in the vac shaft for tthis boot and the vac shaft has a huge flat on one side which means the boot does not sit or seal and there is a gap which could let in water and dirt that will eventually cut out the main shaft seal and find its way into the transfer.
If it can all be done that way , and it works, that's great.
The conversion I did involved lengthening the vac shaft by machining an extension which brings all the angles of the shifer back to original specs.
I fabricated an external detent which locates into notches cut into the shaft extension.
The rear end of the shaft extension has a groove machined to locate and seal the boot.
A bolt on lever was fabricated to bring the hi-low selector lever into the correct position.
Everything is a bolt on bolt off fitting, meaning that it can all be removed and the original vacuum setup reinstalled if that was ever needed.
I run two 60's and the other one has the vacuum shift.
This transfer that I have modified is my spare and can now be used in either vehicle due to this bolt on bolt off system.
I didn't want to change anything that couldn't be very easily changed back.
My intention is to rebuild the old manual shift transfer and reinstall it.
Then this modified vac transfer can go back in the corner as a spare again, and will be a straight forward fitup to either vehicle if needed.
To finish off I'll say that I'm not interested in causing any trouble
here.
Lowtideride, if what I have said was offensive, I appologise, and also to any other members who thought it was out of order.
I don't know Lowtideride and don't have anything whatsoever against the guy.
I posted what I posted because I believe there is a lot more required to do this conversion and end up with a totally reliable and safe system.
Lets start with the shift lever angle.
When you fit the manual shift lever to the vac shaft, you end up with a totally different angle at the shifter as its connection at the bottom end is way further back due to the much shorter vac shaft.
This in turn puts the top end of the lever inside the cab way forward of its original position and it could foul the floor cutout.
The different angle also effects the pivot for hi-low and it ends up very different from the correct factory position.
That pivot should sit roughly level, but the photo shows it at quite an angle.
Now the detent.
It is of little to no use trying to drill and tap for the fitting of the manual detent as the vac 2wd-4wd shaft does NOT have any notches cut for the detent to locate in.
If you don't have a detent you don't have anything locating the 2wd-4wd shaft in either position.
Rough road driving could have the stick vibrating anywhere, and trying to work its way into 4wd at high speed and out of 4wd at low speed.
Neither situation is desirable IMO.
The rubber boot.
There is no locating groove in the vac shaft for tthis boot and the vac shaft has a huge flat on one side which means the boot does not sit or seal and there is a gap which could let in water and dirt that will eventually cut out the main shaft seal and find its way into the transfer.
If it can all be done that way , and it works, that's great.
The conversion I did involved lengthening the vac shaft by machining an extension which brings all the angles of the shifer back to original specs.
I fabricated an external detent which locates into notches cut into the shaft extension.
The rear end of the shaft extension has a groove machined to locate and seal the boot.
A bolt on lever was fabricated to bring the hi-low selector lever into the correct position.
Everything is a bolt on bolt off fitting, meaning that it can all be removed and the original vacuum setup reinstalled if that was ever needed.
I run two 60's and the other one has the vacuum shift.
This transfer that I have modified is my spare and can now be used in either vehicle due to this bolt on bolt off system.
I didn't want to change anything that couldn't be very easily changed back.
My intention is to rebuild the old manual shift transfer and reinstall it.
Then this modified vac transfer can go back in the corner as a spare again, and will be a straight forward fitup to either vehicle if needed.
To finish off I'll say that I'm not interested in causing any trouble
here.
Lowtideride, if what I have said was offensive, I appologise, and also to any other members who thought it was out of order.
euclid
SILVER Star
snip
Thanks for the tech and generaly good natured forum membership. That's what it's all about. It's easy to mis-read folks through the typed words on a screen.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
group hug?
no friggen way!
but thanks for the tech and input!
no friggen way!
but thanks for the tech and input!
I thought I might clarify a couple of things.
The vehicle is an '84 HJ 60 5 speed with manual transfer shifter.
I have fitted to this vehicle an '88 vacuum transfer case which I have modified to use the manual stick shifter.
The only reason I did this is that the original manual transfer in the vehicle had done a lot of miles, was leaking oil from several places, was getting noisey, and had a very clunky front output bearing.
I happened to have a vacuum shift transfer (and gearbox) sitting in the shed as a spare for my other Tojo, an HJ61.
I figured that If I could fit that vac transfer to the old' 84 HJ 60, that it would give me plenty of time to rebuild the noisey one.
That is how the conversion got started.
I did not want to have to pull the transfer apart to do the conversion.
I'm not looking for any "fifteen minutes of fame" on this.
The way I did it was the best way for me to do it at the time.
It isn't necessarily the right or best way to do this job.
There are no doubt a number of methods which could be used to do this without splitting the cases.
I do have photos from when I was working on the shaft extension, the external detent, and the entire set up just before fitting to the vehicle.
I've never taken any pics with the system in place in the vehicle, but it's there right now and could be photographed any time.
My priorities on this job were to keep all the shifter geometry the same as original, to maintain a positive detent for locating the 2wd-4wd shaft position, and to be able to convert back to the original vac set up if needed.
The best conversion method IMO is to split the cases and change all the parts over to the manual system.
There is a very good thread somewhere on this site covering that job and showing photos of all the parts to be changed.
The vehicle is an '84 HJ 60 5 speed with manual transfer shifter.
I have fitted to this vehicle an '88 vacuum transfer case which I have modified to use the manual stick shifter.
The only reason I did this is that the original manual transfer in the vehicle had done a lot of miles, was leaking oil from several places, was getting noisey, and had a very clunky front output bearing.
I happened to have a vacuum shift transfer (and gearbox) sitting in the shed as a spare for my other Tojo, an HJ61.
I figured that If I could fit that vac transfer to the old' 84 HJ 60, that it would give me plenty of time to rebuild the noisey one.
That is how the conversion got started.
I did not want to have to pull the transfer apart to do the conversion.
I'm not looking for any "fifteen minutes of fame" on this.
The way I did it was the best way for me to do it at the time.
It isn't necessarily the right or best way to do this job.
There are no doubt a number of methods which could be used to do this without splitting the cases.
I do have photos from when I was working on the shaft extension, the external detent, and the entire set up just before fitting to the vehicle.
I've never taken any pics with the system in place in the vehicle, but it's there right now and could be photographed any time.
My priorities on this job were to keep all the shifter geometry the same as original, to maintain a positive detent for locating the 2wd-4wd shaft position, and to be able to convert back to the original vac set up if needed.
The best conversion method IMO is to split the cases and change all the parts over to the manual system.
There is a very good thread somewhere on this site covering that job and showing photos of all the parts to be changed.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
i just finished a spl;it case rebuild/vacuum to mechanical shifter conversion. here's a pic, might do a short write-up if it helps.
georg @ valley hybrids
georg @ valley hybrids
I would love to see a good write up of how this is done. Word for word, 'cus I'm a little slow. Awesome idea!!!
Ok guys.. not taking sides.. but I have now out in front of me both a 60 and a 62 transfer case..
The lengths of the shafts are definitely different.. the 62 shaft which was made for the vacuum shift is almost an inch shorter-
Which .. using the linkage I pulled off of my 60 case.. actually doesn't reach..
This is fueling the fire that maybe between years.. the lengths of these rods changed.. ever be it slightly-
The rod that threads in to the side of the tranny is larger on a 60 series.. I do not see a good reason why other than the linkage is slightly angled.. maybe Toyota found that to much stress was placed on the shorter bearing surface and decided to spread it out..
Other slight issue-
The High Low lever in the 60's is pointed in the direction of travel in the vehicle in neutral.. and indexes right and left to change gears.. the 62's lever points towards the drivers ( US system ) side .. 90 degrees- forward and back to select.. Obviously if you fab a new clamp/bar/rod.. this can be worked around -
It looks like the only way I can see here to maintain the stock linkage without doing any major fabrication work is to switch the whole cases.. or several parts ( the 4wd actuating shaft , and the actuating rod/clamp "high / low" ) between the cases - ( this I will be trying tomorrow morning.. ) if there appears to be a way.. I will document it.. if not.. the only way would be to swap the cases in their entirety -
Todd
The lengths of the shafts are definitely different.. the 62 shaft which was made for the vacuum shift is almost an inch shorter-
Which .. using the linkage I pulled off of my 60 case.. actually doesn't reach..
This is fueling the fire that maybe between years.. the lengths of these rods changed.. ever be it slightly-
The rod that threads in to the side of the tranny is larger on a 60 series.. I do not see a good reason why other than the linkage is slightly angled.. maybe Toyota found that to much stress was placed on the shorter bearing surface and decided to spread it out..
Other slight issue-
The High Low lever in the 60's is pointed in the direction of travel in the vehicle in neutral.. and indexes right and left to change gears.. the 62's lever points towards the drivers ( US system ) side .. 90 degrees- forward and back to select.. Obviously if you fab a new clamp/bar/rod.. this can be worked around -
It looks like the only way I can see here to maintain the stock linkage without doing any major fabrication work is to switch the whole cases.. or several parts ( the 4wd actuating shaft , and the actuating rod/clamp "high / low" ) between the cases - ( this I will be trying tomorrow morning.. ) if there appears to be a way.. I will document it.. if not.. the only way would be to swap the cases in their entirety -
Todd
keep us posted on how it goes- Im interested in swapping to a manual shift too
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
you can take all the mechanical linkage parts from the 60 series case and make them work with the 62 case. the late 60 stuff is a bolt-in, the early 60 linkage will require some mods.
georg
georg
