Builds fj62 gets a lift (1 Viewer)

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forgot these
 
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while my truck is out of action I also decided to upgrade my steering dampener. I got an old man emu one from Kurt when he shipped my diff back. I wasn't too happy with the paint job of the dampener. it seemed like there was only one coat and that was thin. I was able to find a perfect match tremclad paint so have given it a few coats more. unlike many of you out there I was delegated to hang it in the utility closet to let it dry so no glamour shots of the kitchen to go with it;)

hopefully it'll give it a little more life before it rusts out!!
 
with the new diff cover the dil hole is quite a bit higher than the stock one. i put 3 quarts of oil in. i recall reading that it should take 2.6 quarts. is this correct? a little extra is good in my opinion. i just want to make sure i put enough in. can someone confirm my numbers? thanks
 
never mind. i just looked it up in my newly acquired FSM. i was right. 2.6 quarts. it says to use 80w but i have 75/140 synthetic in it. that should be ok right? i live in a cold environment in the winter and warm - hot in the summer so i figured this would be a good mix. please direct me otherwise if i'm wrong.
 
im baffled. my diff is in and no more whine. i now have a new vibration. i thought it might be a u joint causing that. a trustworthy shop has just told me that its fine just put in backwards by the last guys who rebuild them so the zerk isn't easy to grease. they're changing that. they said my transfer case output is pointing up too much and suggested shimming it down. they don't know how to do this. nor do i. is this reasonable? it wasn't shaking before i changed my diff so it seems really strange that it would be now. any ideas guys?

they said my transfer case was at 16 degrees and my pinion was at 11. they could only tell me that the transfer case was up compared to horizontal and not down. i though these numbers seemed a little high but i don't know. the trouble is obviously they are off so that may be my vibration issue i would guess.

i hate vibrations. i got it sorted once but now i have to start the search all over again.
 
well u joints are all good and at least the idle is staying where it's supposted to be. just a heads up there are two different part numbers apparently for a 1988-1992 fj62. they'll both bolt up but the internal spring return systems are 90 degrees to each other. I'll have to find the wrong sensor I bought and let you know what part number that is. that was an annoying and kind of expensive mistake. I've had it longer that what toyota will allow for returns so I'm stuck with it I guess. I'll try selling it to someone who needs that part number.

I still have my vibrations so I'm going to keep playing around a little to see if I can find what's causing it. I'm also going to pull my rear drums apart and try to get my e brake working right. that's the only thing I can think of that I monkeyed with while I had the axle apart. maybe it's coming from in there.

also it turned really cold here and my left signal light is acting funny. it flashes at the same rate as the right side but after I cancell the flasher the light in my dash stays on. it's not on full bright but definitely light up. it eventually goes out on its own. I haven't been able to check to see if the signal lights outside are actually on too. does this sound like a flasher problem or maybe another common electrical gremlin? it didn't do this when it was warmer
 
Poor earth maybe? I had my left front go out randomly, new bulb no good. Turned out to be a poor earth in the globe housing. Easy yet time consuming fix to chase where the problem was
 
this is the listed part toyota brought in for an 88-92 fj62
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this is the wrong one! I'm not really sure what it's for but as I mentioned earlier the return spring is 90 degrees off

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not sure what the correct number is
 
i recently almost had that same problem. i got the right part by giving the production date of my truck, ive got an 89 but it was produced in 11/88. so its a late 88 for the 89 model year. aparently it makes all the difference in the tps.
 
I suppose you've already installed it so don't have a picture of the return spring? that would show the difference properly. I believe the part number you showed is the one I got in the end too.
 
on a totally different note I've gone and done it now! I just spent the last two weeks trailering two snowmobiles around and just don't have the power. i know that the engine is getting tired as there are times I can't keep 100 km/hr unless I'm drafting behind a semi! with a small load on a trailer I'm nearly always in third gear to keep hwy speed and only get about 9mpg that way. I just bit the bullet and ordered a 1hd-t with tha a442 tranny. I'm going to be a diesel guy!

I'm going to have hilltop cruisers do the swap and body work this summer as I'm too wrapped up in my 40 build and will never get either done if I try this one myself. I need my truck for the winter so I'll pay to have this one done for me.
 
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I ONLY NEEDED TWO MORE WEEKS!!!

i have arrangements pretty much made to take my truck to hilltop cruisers for my engine swap at the end of the month. last night while driving home i very quickly overheated. i shut it down and checked the engine. oil was good, coolant was gone!! I started it and quickly poured in some coolant and the temps started to drop as they should but then i heard the sound of pouring fluid and out of the drivers side of the block it all came pouring out onto the ground. huge leak!! it's from up under the exhaust manifold so i cant see exactly where its coming from and i was in my good cloths so couldn't climb under there yet. i towed it home where is sits now but what the heck. i had planned to drive it out but now just may trailer it as it's a 700km trip. any ideas where it's coming from in that volume. is there a freeze plug up there i may have blown? i'll get the grubby cloths out tomorrow and go have a look. the engine still seems fine at this point and theres no oil in the antifreeze to suggest a cracked block but who knows.
 
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I wouldn't have thought so either but that's what it was. the front freeze plug somehow popped out. it wasn't leaking or anything before that so it was a catastrophic failure. easy fix though and the engine started with no issues and no funny sounds so I don't think I damaged anything with the short overheat.

while sitting on my parents street though some punk stole my rigid LEDs off my bumper. that's so annoying but at least they didnt try to steal the truck and seize the engine!!
 
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Those diff covers look the bees knees! Nice build!
 
turns out it was actually my block heater that came out. we found it in the frame. the wire was ripped off and shredded. not sure if it got caught in something and got pulled out or if it popped out and then got caught in something. either way I didn't hear it happen but it's done. a frost plug replaced it because the shop couldn't get a block heater. apparently they are discontinued. good thing I dont really need it with an engine swap coming up. it's back on the road though and doesn't seem any worse for wear for the short overheat.
 
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as of tomorrow I'll be without my 62 for the summer. it's being converted to an hdj62! its going in to hilltop cruisers in Alberta for a 1hdt swap, body work and hopefully a few goodies. it'll be everything I love from the different series cruisers all in one. I'll miss driving it for sure but look forward to having a more useable engine. I can't tow crap with it right now. I don't know how well a rebuilt 3fe would run compared to my old engine but I like the diesel so much. my 3fe has 463000km on it. it runs well and clean for the most part just lacks power I need. it'll also be nice to drive a rust free cruiser!!
 

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