fj62 Gear Box H55 problems please help (1 Viewer)

[fj60 1984]

Hi Fellas my Name is Andy, Have been following this site for a few years since My first fj60,which
I have sold and since acquired a 1989 FJ62 with a h55 manual gear box.

Today I took the truck to a local mechanic to see if I needed a new clutch, he took it for a drive and said
the clutch is fine, However he said the gear box has warn out synchros, not happy about that.

the symptoms are when stationery with engine running 1st gear is sometimes difficult to engage but will reluctantly go in. Also when reversing the truck doesn't want to come out of reverse easily when stoped.

Apart from that it drives fine and changes up and down normally. Some advice will be much appreciated.

Cheer Andy

 

[unklwedy]

Make sure clutch hydraulics are in good order. Examine clutch slave cylinder for stroke.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

check shifter bushing...ask Georg.

 

[Output Shaft]

If it's not the shifter bushing, it sounds more like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Or it could be a worn pilot bearing causing excessive friction (less likely).

Reverse does not have synchros. It's just a simple gear to gear engagement. If it's hard to get it out of reverse when stopped, there is still torsion being applied to the transmission, either due to a dragging clutch or binding pilot bearing.

 

[Output Shaft]

With engine idling in neutral:
If you push the clutch in all the way, then wait 10 seconds, do the gears grind when shifting into reverse?

If so, the problem is one of the above.

 

[Tapage]

you can check ( as others said already above ) for slave / fork movement .. but likely synchros on those old H55F since they need GL4 oil and recently years as it became scarce GL5 it's used which can screw your bronze synchros ..

 

[Godwin]

As stated above pilot bearings seldom fail but they can. I had these exact symptoms of difficulty in shifting into 1st and reverse with engine running, but with a 4 speed, and it was the pilot bearing failing. I don't recall if the problem bearing was OEM or not but when I replaced I went with OEM.

 

[fj60 1984]

With engine idling in neutral:
If you push the clutch in all the way, then wait 10 seconds, do the gears grind when shifting into reverse?

If so, the problem is one of the above.

just tried the 10 second trick about a dozen times and its not really grinding just thst usuall click slight grind noise and she goes in. ill have to keep experamanting just got a huge quote on a rebuild that i cant afford. keep your post coming. cheers

 

[fj60 1984]

check shifter bushing...ask Georg.

how do you check the shifter bushing.thanks

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

remove shifter cane by pushing down and turning a quarter turn CCW and lift up- put the trans in N first...there should be a blue rubber bushing like a donut at the base of the shifter tower that locates the shifter ball vertically in the tower. if the bush is worn, the shifter will sit too low..also, there is a plastic cover that clips onto the very tip of the shifter cane that prevents metal to metal contact while shifting- if it is worn or gone, you'll need to fix that...

 

[Output Shaft]

When the engine is in neutral and idling, press the clutch to the floor and hold it there for 10 seconds.

Then very, very SLOWLY start to shift the transmission into reverse.
Just as the gears begin to engage, can you hear/feel them grind a bit as if they are still spinning?

They shouldn't be. They should be completely stopped.

It's OK if it doesn't slide right into reverse (since the gear teeth may not be aligned), but there should not be any clunking or even minimal gear-grind when doing the above.

 

[60Works]

1st and reverse are not synchronized so it's not your syncros!

I've seen this several times before and it's highly unlikely there's anything wrong with your transmission. Adjust the pedal throw into the clutch master. This is a 10 minute fix and you're back on the road.

There is a lock nut holding the clevis stationary on the clutch master push rod. Loosen the nut, rotate the shaft clockwise a couple of turns, then tighten the nut. There is a specific dimension listed in the FSM, but a couple of turns will tell you if that is your problem.

It's a cheap and easy check before pulling your transmission.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Sounds like the pilot bearing is dragging. Common failure. The OEM part is a shielded ball bearing, grease dries up, bearing gets draggy, prevents input shaft from completely disengaging from back of crank. When replacing, upgrade to a sealed bearing, vs a shielded type.

FWIW, on the H55, 1st is sync-ed.

 

[60Works]

Good to know, Jim. Thanks.

 

[Tapage]

I always go 2nd before reverse or 1st gear ..

 

[Godwin]

Sounds like the pilot bearing is dragging. Common failure. The OEM part is a shielded ball bearing, grease dries up, bearing gets draggy, prevents input shaft from completely disengaging from back of crank. When replacing, upgrade to a sealed bearing, vs a shielded type.

FWIW, on the H55, 1st is sync-ed.

Any recommendations on the sealed bearing such as manufacturer and part #?

 

[scrapdaddy]

A lot of good information, Thanks Guys! I always learn something new on this board.

 

[Output Shaft]

Any recommendations on the sealed bearing such as manufacturer and part #?

The best pilot bearing (IMO) is the one supplied by Toyota.
PN: 90363-15004

It is a Nachi- non-contact sealed 6202NKE

-------------
Double sealed bearings like the 6202-2RS have much more rotational torque (friction) due to their dragging rubber seals. The 6202-2RS does seal better for a while than the non-contact sealed 6202NKE or shielded 6202Z bearings, but it does not spin as freely. You can feel the difference easily when you compare (spin) the two. There is a lot of drag on a double sealed bearing compared to the non-contact sealed type. This will allow the clutch to not spin down as quickly.
Both have been used.

 

[fj60 1984]

remove shifter cane by pushing down and turning a quarter turn CCW and lift up- put the trans in N first...there should be a blue rubber bushing like a donut at the base of the shifter tower that locates the shifter ball vertically in the tower. if the bush is worn, the shifter will sit too low..also, there is a plastic cover that clips onto the very tip of the shifter cane that prevents metal to metal contact while shifting- if it is worn or gone, you'll need to fix that...

i have done the following it wad pretty easy.just waiting for the parts to turn up being

remove shifter cane by pushing down and turning a quarter turn CCW and lift up- put the trans in N first...there should be a blue rubber bushing like a donut at the base of the shifter tower that locates the shifter ball vertically in the tower. if the bush is worn, the shifter will sit too low..also, there is a plastic cover that clips onto the very tip of the shifter cane that prevents metal to metal contact while shifting- if it is worn or gone, you'll need to fix that...

I have done the following just wating on rubber bushing and the plastic cover they looked ok to me, but hopefully its that. I still want to adjust the clutch and change the pilot bearing when i figure out how.

 

[60Works]

Is the transmission making any noises that would suggest a dragging bearing?

FYI, changing the pilot bearing requires removing the transmission. Start with the easy and cheap checks first.